I want to do a complete engine build. Any advice????
223 4speed 4:56 I want as much as I can get.

 

I think the 223 is a poor choice for hopping up, but since you ask -

You can search for a 262 crank. For a cam, you'll have to get a custom grind from someone like CamCraft. I used to see high lift rockers on ebay. Dual carb intakes, too.

Good luck.

 

What is it that you want? the most advice, the most power, or what?

A couple of the members of the Northern California Chapter are either running the 223, or rebuilding one to run. What part of California do you live in?

The 4.56 to 1 rear end ratio is very low - you will have a hard time running highway speeds and your gas mileage will be poor.

 

Is that a 'Stock', 'Mild' or 'Performance' build?

Mag-na-flux the block & head to make sure there are No cracks in either.
Acuire an Offenhauser Intake (2v or 4v Holley, Tri-Pak[3 1904 Holleys] or Duce-Pak[2 1904 Holleys]), a 2-into-2 Header.
Ballance & Blue Print w/ a Mild Port & Polish, High Lift & Oversized Valves, Deck Height & Square them.

 

You are quite Incorrect about the 223 being a poor choice as I grew up w/ this engine. When done Correctly it's hard to beat.

In order for a 262 crank to be Made to fit a Fair amount of Meat from the Block has to be Removed in order for the Proper Clearences & Tolerences to be Achieved & they are Quite Hard to Locate.

 

I rebuilt a 223 and it was a waste of money.

The head bolt on the early 223 are 1/2". They tend to lose clamping force and blow head gaskets. Ford later redesigned the 223 with larger 9/16" bolts.

The combustion chambers are huge, like you'd find on a flathead. Compression ratios are limited not just by the large size of the combustion chamber, but also by its predisposition to detonate due to the complete lack of squish and quench.

The intake ports are shared on cylinders 2 and 3 as well as on cylinder 4 and 5. Trying to get any sort of equalized tuning on those cylinders isn't possible.

There's a huge lip just inside of the intake valve. I think it's there to catch unvaporized fuel. The turbulence from that must be huge.

I don't think they ever made a distributor with centrifugal advance.

The block has this wierd little by-pass for the thermostat. It's small enough that it gets completely clogged by rust scale and then you've got thermostat regulation problems; the engine heats up until convection of water finally manages to heat soak the thermostat enough to cause it to open. Then it pops open cause your engine got so hot, the cold water in the radiator gets rapidly shoved into the overheated block. Can you say thermal shock?

I'd suggest getting a 58 or 59 292 block and heads. That'd be a much better starting point.

 

Must have been abused 223c.i.ers, as I've yet to see Anything such as you stated happen to the 223c.i.ers I've been around & they lasted Well past the 250,000 Mile Marks.

 

I'm looking for a good 4x4 engine with some good mpg w/ 33-36'' tires. That is why I want to stick w/ my I6. I really want to get rid of the points and go to somthing more modern. Any suggestions?

 

Mallory makes a Conversion Kit for about $80.00.

 

I am in L.A