This will be my first all out engine build so I will have several questions as I go.

460 bored 30 over, stock rods, Dive block, Dove heads and target of 9.5 to 1 compression. Block is being bored, then I will put in the pistons to check block heigth and have block surfaced to get proper quench height and compression.

Components:
Federal mogul rebuild kit with hyper eutectic pistons and standard volume oil pump.
Lunati 252/256 duration .503/.535 lift OR their 256/262/ duration and .535/.540 lift. Which one???
FRPP double roller steel timing gear set. New stainless valves in stock size. I am sending the heads to Re In Carnation to have the stage 2 port job on one set of intake and exhausts, then me copy the rest.
Heddman Elite Headers with 2.5" dual flows and h pipe.
Performer RPM intake and 770 street avenger carb.

Am I missing anything here or am I way off?

Towing with a c 6 and 3.55 gears.

 

Looking good...but with Scott's head work and those cams you may want to have him do a screw in rocker stud and guide plate conversion. The only other thing is I dont see you talk about ARP rod bolts, I would re-use the stock rods up to 6500 RPM, but I would put good ARP 2000 series bolts in. I would also trash the stock oil pump and use a Melling hi vol pump. Some of the older 460 blocks generate a decent oil leak around the lifters and bearings and bleed off oil at high RPM's faster than the pump can keep it fed. Go standard pressure but a high volume....FRPP also has a high volume pump that is good.

I used to run these cams in basicly stock dove headed 466 engines and they were some SERIOUS tq monsters...and boy did they pull! I pulled in the OEM street stock class with both of these cams and did very well.

Lunati 00096 (Low end jump is almost scary!)
Bracket Master II Camshaft And Lifter Kit Hyd.Flat Tappet RPM 1500-5000 Adv.Dur. 280 Int./290 Exh. Valve Lift .516 Int./.543 Exh. Lobe Angle 112 Deg.Incl HYDRAULIC, Noticeable idle. Provides improved lowand mid-range power in 460 CID engine.

Lunati 00097LK (Nicer lope to idle and still earth-rotation changing TQ)
Bracket Master II Camshaft And Lifter Kit Hyd. Flat Tappet RPM 1800-6000 Adv.Dur. 292 Int./Exh. Valve Lift .554 Int./Exh. Lobe Angle 109 Deg. Incl. Camshaft HYDRAULIC, Good idle. Excellent cam for street machines with mild converter and headers.

 

For what you're doing, hypers will be fine, but I'd consider using Keith Black hypers rather than the FM pistons, which have had mixed reviews (at best). The KB pistons have a better heat treat process than even the regular Silvolites. A little more $$$ but more peace of mind.

 

Thanks guys, this is the feedback I need. I will deffinitely upgrade rod bolts.

Valve springs... Do I just need to check with Lunati and use their recomendation? What are the spring longevity issues with a cam with .500 or greater lift?

Last question has to do with oil pump. Local guy that has done several 5.0 efi and 5.8 efi builds for my projects says to stay away from the highvolume pumps with low rpm builds. Something about oil shaft or cam wear or something. Do I need to upgrade oil pump shafts because the high volume will take a little more to turn?? Also what clearances should I shoot for on the mains and rods. I have heard of going a little more on the thrust main? My book says .0015 on mains. Is that good or??

 

.0015 seems a little tight to me for main bearing clearences, I double that on race engines but I suppose the .0015 is right in the middle as my book says .0008-.0026 (no you don't want to run the .0030 clearence I stated for my race engines that is a high rpm trick and I replace bearings every year just a reference point is the only reason I put that in)
on a .500 lift cam there isn't usually much in spring longevity issues, the usual thing that kills springs is sitting for long periods of time with the rockers tight and the springs compressed, example when I store my engine over the winter I back all the rockers off to relieve the preasure so the springs don't sit in the compressed position.
As far as teh oil pump shaft, for the $15 I alwasy upgrade my oil pump shafts even on basically stock engines, it's just cheap insurance. Not that stockers don't last a long time but usually the original one has been in there for years, and a stock replacement costs like $8-10 so for a couple more dollars might as well have a good on in there.
As far as the High volume pumps wearing dist gears etc, I have had HI volume pumps in engines that ran 150,000 miles and no noticable change in wear but I do see an increase in oil preasure or should I say a maintaining of oil preasure after a lot of miles

 

Always match the spring to the cam, it will make the valves react properly. Make sure the installed height is correct, but Scot will make sure of that...you can bet your life on it. Scott also does some custom cams that you may want to allow him to guide you to. Really, with who you are sending the heads to.....I would say to goto Scott J and tell him to do the heads and give them back with his camshaft and have the heads all set up for that cam. Scott has been researching and playing around on the more stock side of the 460 engines for a few years now and has found some very nice and consistant builds that just plain work. He has ducumented the results, and he rubs elbows with the industry leaders of the world of the 385 series. What I am trying to say...is you can 110% totally trust Scott to get you exactly where you want to be, or at least as close as you can be within a budget.

As for the oil pump, in a 385 series BBF I would always do a high vol pump unless it was a solid lifter, roller cam with restricted flow to the top. Your engine (cam/pump drive) will be fine with the high volume pump at lower RPM's, if you would like...have scott toss you an ARP drive shaft for that pump while he is shipping you parts....it wont hurt.

 

I am looking forward to talking to Scott. I sent him an email but will call him next week when I get some time to talk on the phone. Probably going to spend a little more on this than I planned, but they always go that way! This thing died right before a trip I had been planning for almost a year and now I can't go, so,making sure that does not happen again will be worth it.

 

Here is the formula my wife uses....ask me in a very serious way what a project should cost......tell me I must think she is gullible.... and nowshe insists I tell her the truth. Then she takes whatever number I give her, and multiply by 1.5 and take that answere and multiply by 1.25 and that is approx the real out the door cost. You try it, it works amazingly well!

Honey its goin gto cost 2,000 bucks....she tells me I am lying and I come clean and admit to $2,500. She does a fast math in her head....
$2500 * 1.5 = $3,750
$3,750 * 1.25 = $4,687.50

Yep, I am not getting any loving for at least two weeks for this one.....$4,600+ gone from her hands......Thats how life goes here...lol..

Its a good thing I married a tough lady thats a good sport...and that puts up with my insane toys and spending!

 

That is good! Pretty darn close!! I am divorced but have custody of 3 teenage boys, the oldest 15. We have been into hardcore rockcrawling for years and between that and my other toys, I don't count it anymore... last wife just could not keep up with all us kids!!! My oldest has a 85 mustang trunk car that is awaiting an upcoming 460 transplant for the 1/8 mile. I also dabble in SCCA with an 01 GT. I let my boys grow up with it and they are welcome to race whatever I can afford or whatever is in my shop. I figure that way they will get it out of their system on the track and the proper way instead of the street. their daily driver will be economical 4 cylinders but they know they can come home and go to the track anytime they want..

I am really looking foreward to the 460 in the 85. I was just not planning on cutting my teeth on my tow truck first!!