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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Won't start, no accessories

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Old May 18, 2006 | 07:07 PM
  #1  
NovaScotiaF100's Avatar
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Question Won't start, no accessories

Hi all. I've got an electrical problem with my 1980 F100 302 auto. While driving to work I lost all power at 100kmh. The engine died, radio, heater blower and wipers cut out. I had no signal lights or emergency flashers either, which would have helped as I rolled to the shoulder in the fog. The truck would not even turn over. The headlights and cab lights still work. If I short the starter solonoid the engine will crank. It's like there is no power getting past the starter solonoid. I used a multimeter to check the 2 aftermarket fusible links and it showed I was getting 12.8 volts if I poked the red multimeter lead into the link and touched the negative terminal of the battery with the black lead. I checked the fuses and they are all right. Where do I go from here?
 
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Old May 18, 2006 | 08:29 PM
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I'm thinking maybe try replacing the solonoid I seem to recall seeing something like this before and thats what it was.
 
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Old May 18, 2006 | 09:56 PM
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this might not all be needed, but heres what you should do.

Use dilectric grease on every electrical connection you can find
New solonoid
New battery cables
New ground
Possiably new battery/alt

good luck, I'm forever in preventive maninaince mode with electrical after getting stranded after a fight with my ex (we rode in my truck)........
I guess leaving them lights on for 4 hours kills your battery (forgot they were on... I was busy)

Thats all I know, havnet had many electrical issues with my truck... I've only been driving it for 2 months, since I turned 16.

So far, new alt, battery cables, speakers *duhh*, radiator, hoses, t/stat, transmission/engine fluid/filter

And a hell of alot of gas

good luck with your rig, they're great trucks when they're taken care of.
What transmission do you have (identified by the pan), and will it burn out on dry pavement? What kind of gas milage are you getting out of it?

tks alot, I appreciate it

~Nate
 
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Old May 19, 2006 | 03:29 AM
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I had the same thing happen once. The negative cable to ground connection was corroded. I would clean all connections on the battery cables and the electrical items like alt, starter, solenoid.
 
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Old May 19, 2006 | 04:47 AM
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uncle weezles betting on the ground connection to the block or the frame connection
 
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Old May 19, 2006 | 12:07 PM
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When you checked the fuseable links, did you check to see if you have power beyond them in the actual wires?

From the link on the starter solenoid, that link should go down and split off to more wires. There is a weld that connects the link to the wires. It could have corroded there, or at the other fuseable links where they are welded etc...

My truck has four of them.

..........

Check the ground cables going to the starter, or block, frame etc.. from the battery neg terminal as suggested earlier by weezle.

You may need a new battery cable etc...
 
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Old May 19, 2006 | 01:39 PM
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One more thing that is possible is check your connection from steering colum down to main harness.
 
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Old May 20, 2006 | 02:29 PM
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Well, I found it. At some point in the past someone installed aftermarket temp, oil pressure, and a voltmeter guage. I followed power through the harness to the voltmeter it had power on both terminals, but none on the exiting wire. I put a new connector on and my radio, wipers and blower came on. In the long run, I now have a new starter solonoid, all kinds of new wire connections, new battery cables, and waterproof fusible links. A.K.A. 60 bucks worth of peace of mind. Thanks for all the suggestions and help.
 
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Old May 20, 2006 | 02:36 PM
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Youre welcome. You did a good job.

You are so right...all that new stuff is stuff you won't have trouble with for years.
 
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Old May 20, 2006 | 03:01 PM
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The whole power of your truck isnt going through that ammeter is it?

Ive seen aftermarket guages like that melt down and catch fire, because they are wired like that.

Its better to have the aftermarket ammeter hooked up like the factory ammeter. IMO
 
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Old May 22, 2006 | 12:19 PM
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Wink

Originally Posted by 81-F-150-Explorer
The whole power of your truck isnt going through that ammeter is it?

Ive seen aftermarket guages like that melt down and catch fire, because they are wired like that.

Its better to have the aftermarket ammeter hooked up like the factory ammeter. IMO
All power does goes through that ammeter, I'll fix it after the hail stops, thanks, I had a Topaz catch fire from a remote starter, I don't need that again.
DC
 
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