When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've seen worse (at least twice) but that is pretty bad. The sad part is that it can happen even when you're trying to do a good job with oil changes. Just making the wrong choice about motor oil will cause that.
Once the valve seals go, there's nothing to do but repair it, but as long as the valve seals stay alive, you can drive it clean if you do the right things. Try using a quart of ATF or other additives to dissolve the sludge.
The intake manifold has incredible amounts of rust, as does the block.
As does the radiator and the heater core. Yeah I know, just one more freakin detail to work out before you can fire it up.
One of my co-workers was doing well to at least keep water in his. By the time he brought it to me (water pump) at least 2/3 of the radiator tubes were clogged shut. I had the tanks off to clean and re-seal the caps, kept thinking it was like the posters you see in the customer lounge. Cheapest/easiest option for that vehicle was a used core with the original tanks.
LOL, don't worry, the radiator comes back from the radiator shop tomorrow... Getting rodded, any leaks repaired, etc.
As for the heater core... I'm gonna buy a new one but for now i'm bypassing the heater, I need this truck on the road ASAP. Besides, it's summer time in Arizona... hehe...
As for the comment about this engine running... Yes, it was still being driven that way!
Funny thing is, it actually ran quite smooth, just had hesitation on the accelleration and loss of horsepower, and was blowing tons of smoke
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.