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Old May 13, 2006 | 05:33 PM
  #1  
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A/C pressures

I finally got around to getting a manifold set.
Hooked-up @ idle with Max A/C on and the highest fan setting pressures are:
Low:32-36
High:250

I have the high idle installed, so I ran it up to 1200RPM and here are the pressures.
Low:went down to around 20-22
High:270

It's been hot here, ambient temps are between 90-100*
Does it look like I'm a little low on coolant?
If so, does it matter what kind of R-134 gets put in?
Thank you,
Jay
 
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Old May 13, 2006 | 07:23 PM
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2000Ford2000
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You are missing one piece of important information: the temp. coming out of the ducts. Forgive me if you posted this somewhere else but I missed it.

Your pressures sound fairly good. At 100 deg. outside temps., you may only expect a discharge of 50-65 degrees.
 
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Old May 13, 2006 | 07:36 PM
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Sorry, forgot to post vent temps...
Coldest it gets at high idle is around 48*, regular idle is 55*(Max A/C)

It commonly cycles off during daily driving and vent temps go up to 60-66*, stay there for a little bit and then back down to 50-55*

I don't see anything around 35-38* like some on here atest too, although it will get down to about 46 on the lowest fan setting(not something common this time of year.)

I've got black leather interior, that's got to have something to do with how hot it feels inside(as well as black exterior.)
Thanks,
Jay
 
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Old May 13, 2006 | 07:45 PM
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Also, forgot to ask.

Is it normal for the high pressure needle to jump wildly during testing. Not fluctuating greatly in psi, just flickering a lot.
Thanks.
 
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Old May 13, 2006 | 07:48 PM
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Depends on the gauge. The cheaper ones tend to flutter a bit with the refrigerant being a vapor and a liquid mix on the discharge, then becomes a total liquid upon exiting the condensor. The port you have must be on the discharge, no worries.
 
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Old May 13, 2006 | 08:16 PM
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Thanks for the reply, I could easily read the pressure, just wanted to make sure it was OK.

Jay
 
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Old May 14, 2006 | 10:04 AM
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Ok, I checked it again this morning after a cold soak.

@ idle with Max A/C and highest fan setting, ambient temp @70-75*:
Low:20
High:160
vent temps @ 40-41*

@ 1200rpm with same settings low side pressure got down low enough to kick the compressor on/off.

This thing cools great great when the temps aren't too hot, but when it's 100* it sucks.
FYI, on my gauge, 20 is right were it changes from low/full.
How do these numbers look?
Jay
 
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Old May 14, 2006 | 01:16 PM
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i would put in a can of 134. low pressure should be a bit higher, like between 40 and 45 lbs.
 
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Old May 15, 2006 | 09:46 AM
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At 1200 rpm and with a temp gauge at the center vent, fan on high, max AC, windows closed add a little R-134 and see if the center temp drops. If it does add freon just until the center temp starts to rise. Stop. Remove just enough freon to drop the temp to the previous lowest temp. You are done. This ensures you don't overcharge.

John
 
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Old May 15, 2006 | 11:34 AM
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Sounds like an old capillary system trick I used to do. If that doesn't work, you'll have to evacuate and weigh in the charge.Because once you start adding and removing, it's just a guessing game from there.
 
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Old May 16, 2006 | 10:03 PM
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If you are adding and removing refrigerent, you are eventually going to throw it out of balance.
your best bet is have the refrigerent recovered from your system,(it is illegal to vent), then remove any non condensables with a vacuum pump, then weigh in the correct amount as specified by the mfg.
now your ac should work to max efficiency(providing all your componants are ok and you have no leaks.
Guess charging a small system can be tricky.

Bill
 
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Old May 17, 2006 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by motorcyclist
your best bet is have the refrigerent recovered from your system,(it is illegal to vent)
That's only if you're licensed isn't it?

It's funny that you can't vent 134a but has anyone looked at what's in a can of either freeze mist or canned air? You got it. 134a
 
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Old May 17, 2006 | 05:57 PM
  #13  
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I agree, anybody can buy it, but only licensed people can work on it. It has been said a couple of times in this thread, it's gonna have to be recovered, evacuated, and weighed in. This post, and many other I've seen, it's pretty much a guessing game when people add and remove, and I understand about saving a buck and not getting ripped off, but the days of R-12 are gone. Refrigeration is a science, and once you mess with the equation, (ambient temps, weight of refrigerant, capacity of system, duct temp, fan speed) it's all a variable. Results may vary by user.
 
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Old May 17, 2006 | 09:53 PM
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At this point, I'm not going to mess with the amount. The temps are good with a low ambient temp, they just go up when it gets really hot out.

I'm going to put a shut off valve in the heater line to block it on all settings. I can use this in the summer and open it back up in the winter. Of course I'll open it up regularly to keep junk out of the heater core.

Our fleet does this on all of our ambulances and fire trucks and it works great.

It's pretty inexpensive and I'll see if I can gain some lower temps.
Thanks for all you input,
Jay
 
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Old May 17, 2006 | 10:27 PM
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[QUOTE=2000Ford2000]That's only if you're licensed isn't it?

That is something I can not understand, because in the commercial refrigeration trade, we must have a certification before we can purchase any flavor of refrigerent from our wholesalers, yet anyone can buy the stuff in an auto parts store, also every time we add or remove refrigerent from a system, or even open one up to service a componant, we have to fill out extra paperwork .

myself, I have always felt that it is nothing more than the politicians and bueraucrats looking to enhance revenue for them selves.
 

Last edited by motorcyclist; May 17, 2006 at 10:29 PM.
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