Crank Gear Removal
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Nashville
Crank Gear Removal
Started to remove the crank gear today to install an adjustable timing set... and to my surprise the two holes in the crank gear for the puller bolts aren't threaded. The Chilton's manual clearly shows using a 2-bolt type gear puller [Ford part T85P-6316-D] but only says "use gear puller to remove" and nothing else.
Does the Ford puller have self tapping bolts to grab on to the gear or are you supposed to use a tap and thread it yourself?? If anyone has done this before please shead a little light
Does the Ford puller have self tapping bolts to grab on to the gear or are you supposed to use a tap and thread it yourself?? If anyone has done this before please shead a little light
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Saddle Brook United State
Check real close to see if the holes are threaded. I seriously doubt you would be able to tap the gear if the holes aren't tapped, the gears are hardened. The ford book shows a 2 bolt puller and says you can use a steering wheel puller. There are no self tapping bolts with the ford puller. Can you grab the gear around the outside edge with a regular puller?
stractor
stractor
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From: Nashville
There's no way to get it off with a regular puller, the gear sits flush against the block. At first I thought the holes were just gunked up with oil and muck obscuring the threads, but after a good cleaning it's still looking like two smooth bores, no threads.
Maybe this is a production line goof and this particular gear just didn't get threaded?? Like everyone else Ford farmed out the manufacture of their gears and they just install them... and installation doesn't require use of the puller holes. Anyone know what size bolts the gear is supposed to take?? It looks like a 5/16" but can't quite tell.
If I do have to tap them I want to do it right.
Maybe this is a production line goof and this particular gear just didn't get threaded?? Like everyone else Ford farmed out the manufacture of their gears and they just install them... and installation doesn't require use of the puller holes. Anyone know what size bolts the gear is supposed to take?? It looks like a 5/16" but can't quite tell.
If I do have to tap them I want to do it right.
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So I start tapping the gear with a 5/16 18tpi tap and all I'm pulling out is rock hard carbon crap. After about 20min of advancing 2 turns, removing the tap to clean it, repeat, I finally saw the beginnings of some threads. Long story short, the threads were there, they were just completly encased in 23 years worth of carbon residue. Took well over an hour to get both holes cleaned to the point where I could get the puller bolts in at least 3/4 of the gear's thickness. Once the puller was on and lined up the gear came off withought a fuss.
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From: SE, Michigan
What brand of gears are you going to replace them with? I bought a set from comp cams both are coarse steel gears. I noticed that my new crank gear doesn't have any holes at all in it. I have not installed it yet, but what if I ever needed to remove it after it was installed? Any thoughts on this? Thanks
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You have to get a bearing splitter and clamp that behind the gear, it then has threaded holes which you use to attach it to a slotted puller yoke and the jack screw in the center of the yoke is turned down against the crank pulling it off.
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82fordf100; I got the comp cams adjustable set too [#3224]. Believe it's the same one made by Cloyes, I can just get it cheaper thru Comp via my local wholesaler. Comp used to offer a version with fine teeth but it was discontinued a month or so ago.
As far as removing the "hole-less" crank gear, as kotzy mentioned a bearing splitter would work. My factory steel gear set was still in perfect shape other than just being a bit dirty, so I doubt these will ever wear out. Only reason I'm switching is to be able to install the cam "straight up" instead of -4 degrees. My cam is going to bump up the effective RPM range so changing to neutral cam timing should bring it back down closer to where it was before. From what I understand each degree of cam timing advance lowers the RPM range about 200 RPM.
As far as removing the "hole-less" crank gear, as kotzy mentioned a bearing splitter would work. My factory steel gear set was still in perfect shape other than just being a bit dirty, so I doubt these will ever wear out. Only reason I'm switching is to be able to install the cam "straight up" instead of -4 degrees. My cam is going to bump up the effective RPM range so changing to neutral cam timing should bring it back down closer to where it was before. From what I understand each degree of cam timing advance lowers the RPM range about 200 RPM.
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From: Broken Arrow, OK
Originally Posted by 83Van
82fordf100; I got the comp cams adjustable set too [#3224]. Comp used to offer a version with fine teeth but it was discontinued a month or so ago.
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They must have taken a pix of the fine tooth set Ford used to make. They then changed
to the course gear. I don't know if they are still being sold by Ford, I must say whoever made them had them mated right because they were quite. We used them in P500-600
trucks until perhaps 1989.
to the course gear. I don't know if they are still being sold by Ford, I must say whoever made them had them mated right because they were quite. We used them in P500-600
trucks until perhaps 1989.
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I've seen the fine tooth gear set for the 300, they do [did] exist. Had something like double the # of teeth as the regular gear. Not sure who made them though. It wasn't Cloyes, who supplies Comp, Napa, and plenty of others, but some other manufacturer. Instead of having multiple keyways, it allowed you skip teeth to time the cam up and down either 2 or 3 degrees at a time. Drawback was that the smaller teeth were more fragile and prone to wear unlike the very beefy stock setup.
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