When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well I'm in the process of tearing down my 6.9 and getting it prepped to go to the machine shop. I'm having trouble getting the timing gears off the crank and camshaft. I was using a puller that uses bolts that thread into the pulley or gear to be removed. I have been cranking down on them, they just don't want to budge. I'm not a complete stranger to this operation, don't want to damage anything. Any suggestions?
I just used my "steering wheel puller" on the crank. Had the machine shop press off the cam gear. Theyre not really pressed on, they just kinda stick on there.
I didn't have any luck with the crank gear, but I got the cam gear off. I guess I'll let the machine shop handle the rest. Everything is stripped and ready to go. Cam and crank journals are smooth and shiny, hopefully it'll only need a bore job and we should be golden! Thanks for all the help guys, the saga continues...
Not sure if you've tried it but once you have a good bit of tension with the puller smack the top of the puller with a hammer. It has proved a useful trick on everything from distributors to pitman arms for me.
Not sure if you've tried it but once you have a good bit of tension with the puller smack the top of the puller with a hammer. It has proved a useful trick on everything from distributors to pitman arms for me.
I have used that trick before, it works very well. Wasn't sure how much beating I could put those gears through.
I always use a Deadblow to take the cam gear off, and a bearing puller on my press for the retainer, eccentric and spacer. If you dont have access to a press, the bearing puller has threads to combine with a steering wheel puller or the like.
I always use a Deadblow to take the cam gear off, and a bearing puller on my press for the retainer, eccentric and spacer. If you dont have access to a press, the bearing puller has threads to combine with a steering wheel puller or the like.
I do have a set of bearing pullers/splitters, I also have a 20 ton shop press. I'll have to try that for the eccentric and spacer on the cam. Speaking of camshafts, I am strongly considering ordering up a Stage 1 cam from R&D. Is it compatible with the stock valve springs? Is it recommended to replace the lifters and pushrods?
Lifters and pushrods should be fine. Springs, probably fine, but i would get 910s
910s? Are you referring to the valve springs? I don't know how much material was removed when the heads were resurfaced. I imagine they will also some when they redeck the block. Should I be concerned about piston to valve clearance?
Decking the heads wont cause issue with valve clearance if they know how to set the valves. Depending on how much they deck the block, its a possibility. This is why most replacement pistons are 1.94 compression height instead of 1.95 (stock) Its to accomodate for cleaning up the mounting surfaces.
Decking the heads wont cause issue with valve clearance if they know how to set the valves. Depending on how much they deck the block, its a possibility. This is why most replacement pistons are 1.94 compression height instead of 1.95 (stock) Its to accomodate for cleaning up the mounting surfaces.
My machine shop guy did replace the valve springs. I know they are Comp springs, not sure which ones.
Yours are a double spring with a pinch lighter spring rate, 370 vs. 380. That said, they have higher seat pressure and open pressure: 92 vs. 121 and 300vs 343 respectively.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.