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To start things off i have a 1993 - 351 - 5.8 recent rebuild has about 20,000 on it. Balancer is new, fuel filter is new, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, map sensor,motor mounts and tranny mount. timing is right smack on 10 BTDC, but when the engine is at idle it shakes me right out of my seat, no misfires everything is running fine, no codes. Also when I'm at a light it shakes even worse, But under normal driving while I have my foot on the gas its fine, no shake.. nothing.... Couldit be a bad fuel pump or clogged injectors cause this or maybe even a clogged PCV, or a TQ converter??
Yea man, I replaced them a week ago and checked them last night to see if they were still ok, which they are. It says everything i replaced on my first post.
Not to be smart.....but I hope you didnt have a place like.......AutoZone check it for codes.....then guys are lucky if they can turn on a light switch without boogering something up.
Regardless if it passes both the KOEO, KOER and there is nothing in the CM it will have to give you 111 code's.
If I was you I would double check the firing order, and see if I dont just have a wire or two out of place.
Last edited by Streetgang; May 10, 2006 at 03:56 PM.
I have a 302 '96 Bronco. The only times I have had that shaking problem was when I was given the wrong flywheel and the wrong EGR. Two separate occassions. They looked right, but they were not.
Kim
I did everything myself when it was replaced, i'm currenlty going to school for automotive tech, and I have access to a hoist so it makes things easier. But my neighbor ken who works for ford and has been for 35+ years now and he checked them for me by grounding the "piggy tail" he called it to the body and counting the number of flashes the CEL made.. a key on check and a running check. I did check the timing its fine and all the wires are fine i made sure 1-3 and 5-6 wires are seperated incase of crossfire. The idle is fine it just shakes at a stop and in park at those lower rpms. I can also rev it in park and still have the shake at around 2000 but under a load while i'm driving it doesnt shake until i completely stop. idk but could a bad IAC cause it to shake like that? I dont really have a good tach because the factory one doesnt work and all I have is a small sunpro tach that I dont think it the best, so i cant "really" be sure the idle is fine but it does stay running while it shakes.
I did my own work too, but the warehouse gave me a flywheel for a 351. It ran okay that way. It was shaking all the time, but badly at around 3500 rpm. If it is not balanced right, it will shake even if everything else is fine. My truck had no codes then also. It's just an idea. I'm no expert.
When I had the engine rebuilt I had Ford rebuild it, this shake has happened only in the past week it has been fine up to that point. The harmonic balancer was replaced before but not because of this shake I had that problem earlier. I did the tune up because it was shaking. It had a small shake and then in the past week just got 10 times worse.
I did everything myself when it was replaced, i'm currenlty going to school for automotive tech, and I have access to a hoist so it makes things easier. But my neighbor ken who works for ford and has been for 35+ years now and he checked them for me by grounding the "piggy tail" he called it to the body and counting the number of flashes the CEL made.. a key on check and a running check. I did check the timing its fine and all the wires are fine i made sure 1-3 and 5-6 wires are seperated incase of crossfire. The idle is fine it just shakes at a stop and in park at those lower rpms. I can also rev it in park and still have the shake at around 2000 but under a load while i'm driving it doesnt shake until i completely stop. idk but could a bad IAC cause it to shake like that? I dont really have a good tach because the factory one doesnt work and all I have is a small sunpro tach that I dont think it the best, so i cant "really" be sure the idle is fine but it does stay running while it shakes.
Just a few corrections in terminology..........
I am, assuming that the "piggy tail" is the EEC test port. If you dont have a scan tool, yes you can retrieve codes with a paper-clip and counting flashes of the CEL. You can do this yourself and make sure you get a pass code. Just check out these very simple directions. http://http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13
Then you can look up the meaning of any codes you may get.....but you WILL get a pass code if everything is good.
You said you checked the timing......did you remove the SPOUT when you checked the base timming, and was the engine warm when you checked it.
As far as the spark plug wires and the chance of crossfire.....IIRC its the #7 and #8 wires you need to keep apart from each other.
I would also check for vac leaks.
Please dont forget to post back here whene the problem is solved.
Last edited by Streetgang; May 12, 2006 at 06:44 AM.
I would be looking for a newer harmonic balancer. The one you have has probably slipped in the rubber mount. If you have the old one, put it on and give it a try.