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My 2000 4x4 is squeaking something fierce. I think I have it isolated down to the ujoints starting to go. Can these be greased or am I going to have to replace them? If I do replace them, should I just let the shop do it or should I do it myself? I'm pretty mechanical, I just don't want to get the driveshaft out of align. I know to m ake a scribe mark before unbolting and all that jazz..but is it a royal pain to get the ujoints out?
alright i had to bring back an old post but i cant get my ujoints off. driveshaft out, 4 clips out, i tried a bench vise, a bfh, two fork trucks and the bfh. i need some help. is there a secret clip that i cant see? could i cut the old joint out with a sawsall? (not the yoke but the joint itself) i need help.
I see you are having the same dilemma I had. I finally got so PO'd that I took my driveshaft into a shop to have them get the ujoints out for me. They tried everything in the book as well, with no luck, not to mention they cracked my balancer ring in the process. After many hours of soaking in PB Blaster the clips finally came loose enough for me to get some needle nose pliers behind them to twist them out. Then the air chisel came in handy to drive the ujoints back through. I have no secret tips for you, other than to walk away when you get too pissed....cuz the BFH was really close and I wanted to lay the smack down on the driveshaft after a few hours of messing with it.
Had the same problem. The only solution is heat and beat. The caps on mine were so rusted in after 75k miles that I had to use a torch to get them loose.
i got the clips out ok but i cant get the caps to budge do you know what the shop useed to get them out. im thinking of taking the drive shaft back out and sticking it a bucket of pbblast for a day or looking for a used driveshaft with lowmiles with hopes it comes with a good ujoint.
anyone ever try a balljopint press tool? autozone wanted 100.00 deposite for one but i didnt have the cash. i tried heat but i didnt want to get it too hot cause i wasnt sure if i should be putting heat on it in the first place. so you guys think more heat, more pb blast, and more f-in' beating?
Had the same problem. The only solution is heat and beat. The caps on mine were so rusted in after 75k miles that I had to use a torch to get them loose.
Good luck
If yours were that bad then I'm deffinately thinking that mine are going to be a real pain. I have close to 210k on my originals and one of them is making noise only in reverse. I'm waiting till it gets worse before I shell out the cash to get them done. I'm taking mine in. The one reason is I can't get the pinion flange bolts free.
my bolts were alittle tough i had to use a breakerbar on them. try soaking your ujoint in wd40 or pb blast. i did it on mine and it helped to quiet things down alittle.
the will loan you the ball joint press if you buy ball joints. dont know if they will loan it out for drive shaft or not. i levt a $100. payment (VISA), and they credit it back to you the next day when you bring it back.... I would bet a 20 ton hydraulic press is the way to get it pushed out. your right, a few years ago all it took was a c-clamp or a big hammer and a 3/4 inch dowel punch.
anyone ever try a balljopint press tool? autozone wanted 100.00 deposite for one but i didnt have the cash. i tried heat but i didnt want to get it too hot cause i wasnt sure if i should be putting heat on it in the first place. so you guys think more heat, more pb blast, and more f-in' beating?
A balljoint press is worth its weight in gold when swapping out u-joints. I had to replace the u-joints in my '99 this past summer and while it was still a pain, the balljoint press made it easier.
Id do it yourself if you are at all mechanically inclined. Its not that hard. I bought 2 greaseable u-joints from Auto Zone for less than $20. If you took it to a shop to have it done Id bet you would be paying at least $100.
One thing I would advise is to get the non-greaseable ones. The driveshaft yolks dont give you enough room to get the greasegun hose on the fitting. On mine I have to use a pin fitting on the greasegun in order to grease them. The non-greasable ones only cost $5 more than the greasable ones and IMO the extra $5 per u-joint would be well wroth the headache you would be saving yourself.