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Old May 8, 2006 | 08:34 AM
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Grunt0311
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From: Paw Paw, MI
Exclamation Help ASAP Please!!

I got into the truck this morning, and service engine soon light is on. When I parked it last night, everything was fine. So I start driving, and it is "chugging". Then the light goes off, and it runs fine. Light comes on, more "chugging"! On and off all the way to work. I got to work, and light is off. I hooked up scanner, but with light being off I dont know that it will do any good. The codes I got are P1316, and P0470. Any ideas on why it is "chugging" and why the light goes on and off?? I need to get it figured out as this is my daily driver!! Thanks!
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 09:22 AM
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1316 is for an IDM code. Do a wiggle test (with the engine running) of the harness near the IDM and under valve cover connector. If no problem found there check the wireing under the valve cover.
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 09:38 AM
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From: Paw Paw, MI
Originally Posted by mech2161
1316 is for an IDM code. Do a wiggle test (with the engine running) of the harness near the IDM and under valve cover connector. If no problem found there check the wireing under the valve cover.
I dont want to sound like an idiot, but what is IDM, and where is it located?? The problem with trying to isolate the problem is the fact that it is intermittent.
Thanks!
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 09:48 AM
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From: Morgantown WV
Originally Posted by Grunt0311
I dont want to sound like an idiot, but what is IDM, Injector Driver Module and where is it located?? Behind d/s inner fender liner The problem with trying to isolate the problem is the fact that it is intermittent. loose connection, check by shaking wire harness
Thanks!
Answers are in bold print.
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 09:51 AM
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From: Paw Paw, MI
thanks Kevin, I will check. Do you know what the P0470 code is??
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 10:03 AM
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From: Morgantown WV
Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor Circiut. I would clear the codes and see if that code comes back before doing anything.
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 10:17 AM
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Kevin, yes can not get rid of the 0470. It has been there since I have had the truck. Any idea why, and would it cause the chugging I was talking about??
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Grunt0311
Kevin, yes can not get rid of the 0470. It has been there since I have had the truck. Any idea why, and would it cause the chugging I was talking about??
Have u noticed the EBPV working normal in cold weather? Closing and opening to allow the engine to warm up faster.
Nut
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 10:48 AM
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From: Morgantown WV
When the codes are cleared do both codes come back?
P0470: damaged ebps
damaged connection
damaged pcm
You also need to do a wiggle test at the ebps and the pcm
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 11:14 AM
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From: Paw Paw, MI
Originally Posted by PSNut
Have u noticed the EBPV working normal in cold weather? Closing and opening to allow the engine to warm up faster.
Nut
I believe it is working, or was. I havent heard it last few warm ups, but weather is warmer too. Should it always kick on?? It raises the RPM's and causes the whooshing sound out the tailpipe when warming up right??
Thanks
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 11:28 AM
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From: Florence,SC
more than likely you have a bad ebp sensor. with the truck swiched off it shoulr read atmospheric pressure. any higher or lower and it will set a code. i would bet that it is not the problem though. 7.3's did not need this input as much as the 6.0. address your idm concern first, that might be the problem
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 12:03 PM
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Kevin, if I remember correctly just the 4070 comes back. I just checked it again, as the light was back on. No additional codes were thrown from when the light wasnt on.
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 12:33 PM
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Did you have the chugging issue when the light was back on? Both codes need testing, either can be caused by a bad connection, bad wire or even a pcm.
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 12:36 PM
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From: Paw Paw, MI
Kevin, yes chugging is only when light is on. When it goes off, truck runs like normal.
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 12:40 PM
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Thumbs up

if your 1316 code is an intermediate problem, I would bet its the same thing that happen to mine, the clips for the wiring under the valve covers seem to get loose the tabs are ontop of the clip and there is a clip tab on the inside of the connector that I think gets warm and starts to lay down against the plug releasing the clip from the plug..I found that ford does not offer a fix for this and instead of buying new clips or valve covers, I use 2 quarters from my pocket, I groung the side of the quarters off till i removed about a 1/6 of georges head and slid them under the clips to hold them up....here is a pic...without the grinding...as you can see it holds good and there is no where for the coin to go,,the sides are tight and the valve cover locks down the top..just make sure you give it enough room after grinding to allow for clearence of the Quarter under the cavle cover..it does not have to be tight against the valve cover just close...
My main problem was the passengerside..I also found out that you dont have to remove the air compressor...just remove the intercooler pipe and when you unbolt the valve cover just push the dip stick forward and lift the valve cover up just enough to clear and let it slide down towards the exhaust manifold and you have just enough room to get at the connector...

 

Last edited by rickgmi; May 8, 2006 at 12:47 PM.
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