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Old May 8, 2006 | 12:53 PM
  #16  
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mech2161
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From: Morgantown WV
Originally Posted by Grunt0311
Kevin, yes chugging is only when light is on. When it goes off, truck runs like normal.
When you clear the code then drive it, once the problem happens again what code returns or do both come back?
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 12:59 PM
  #17  
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From: Paw Paw, MI
I cant clear them. I try to, but they are still there whether I drive or not.
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 01:00 PM
  #18  
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rickgmi
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mine has a probably bad EBV..that code is there all the time, (no engine light on that one) when 1316 code first hit and i cleared it with a SC 1705, then about 2 days later it did that same thing, (should explain) jumped on freeway hit it to pass semi and it started breaking up..engine light stayed on I stayed with it and it cleard the chugging and the light ..got to were i was going and the 1316 was back when i scanned for codes...fixed it with quarters and it never came back that was a few weeks ago now
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 01:04 PM
  #19  
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is it still chugging or breaking up??
Check your private messages
 

Last edited by rickgmi; May 8, 2006 at 01:08 PM.
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Old May 8, 2006 | 03:27 PM
  #20  
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Okay, took it in to guy I know and trust at repair shop. Here is what he said. Something is contaminating my oil. First thing he asked is what oil am I running, and how long has it been. I told him Rotella and been in just 2000 miles. He says that it is too thin, and who did my oil change because they overfilled it. I said, okay there is the problem. I do my own oil changes, and know for a fact that it wasnt overfilled because I came up about 1/2 quart short when I filled it cause I ran out of oil. He also said that it looked too thin to be Rotella.

So I am guessing that fuel is getting dumped into the oil. Is this what you would think?? And, if this is the case, would it be because of injectors??

He said about $70/hr to diagnose, times anywhere from 30 min to 4 hours depending on if he finds it. I told him what you guys have said. I am going to email him a link to this post so he can read what you have said and hopefully save me some $$$.

So what do you think on the new developments?? Same diagnosis?? Let me know as he will see this post too.

Thanks
Bill
 

Last edited by Grunt0311; May 8, 2006 at 03:29 PM.
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Old May 8, 2006 | 03:30 PM
  #21  
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From: Southeast mi
Fuel in oil

Can you smell fuel in the oil...I would think you could if you have a quart of fuel or more in there....
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 05:02 PM
  #22  
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From: Paw Paw, MI
Originally Posted by rickgmi
Can you smell fuel in the oil...I would think you could if you have a quart of fuel or more in there....
Looked at oil, it is thin. I smelled it, I couldnt really notice the distinct smell of diesel. I'm thinking that is probably the problem though. How long did it take you rick to do both sides?? I'm thinking maybe I should get it home and try that myself. If it isnt the problem I would hate to pay several hundred dollars for them to do it for nothing!

Thanks
Bill

PS: by the way, you know that defacing currency/taking it out of circulation is illegal right J/K Great job on the engineering!!
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 05:14 PM
  #23  
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rickgmi
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From: Southeast mi
Thumbs up Work time

Not sure because I also removed my intake and cleaned all the booths since i had mine apart...but doing all that only took 3.5 hours, So im almost sure you can do both sides in nothing more then 2 hours...there really not that hard to do if you have the right tools, good socket set with adapters, also the only problem i had is that you really want to just start the valve cover bolts and leave about 1/4 inch out till you get them back in, the hardest part was the back bolts closest to the firewall was just hard for myself to get to, other then that really easy and the gaskets are reusable, so its really a $0.50 fix, and just time,
If you need to..you can call again..im free today
 

Last edited by rickgmi; May 8, 2006 at 05:15 PM. Reason: forgot
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Old May 8, 2006 | 07:49 PM
  #24  
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From: Paw Paw, MI
Originally Posted by rickgmi
Not sure because I also removed my intake and cleaned all the booths since i had mine apart...but doing all that only took 3.5 hours, So im almost sure you can do both sides in nothing more then 2 hours...there really not that hard to do if you have the right tools, good socket set with adapters, also the only problem i had is that you really want to just start the valve cover bolts and leave about 1/4 inch out till you get them back in, the hardest part was the back bolts closest to the firewall was just hard for myself to get to, other then that really easy and the gaskets are reusable, so its really a $0.50 fix, and just time,
If you need to..you can call again..im free today
I think you talked me into it. I have the sockets, but what adapters am I going to need?? Also, does anyone know what the valve cover bolts should be torqued to? If I do it, it will not be until tomorrow afternoon. Also, what do you guys think about driving it home?? Will it hurt it with there being diesel in the oil? I am guessing no more than 1 Qt of diesel, on the high side, and about 3-4 miles home.

Thanks!
Bill
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 07:55 PM
  #25  
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rickgmi
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From: Southeast mi
I just hand tighten the bolts nice and snugg I call it 2 knucle white, when two fingers get white knuckles there tight, you will probably need a few extensions 2 and 6 and a universal...I used a quarter inch drive to reinstall...


The part I dont understand is the diesel in the oil, the clips will not put diesel in teh oil unless you have another problem along with that, did you say you could smell diesel in the oil?

If there is and you only have a little and your only going 3 or four miles I would'nt worry about it..
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 07:56 PM
  #26  
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From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by Grunt0311
I believe it is working, or was. I havent heard it last few warm ups, but weather is warmer too. Should it always kick on?? It raises the RPM's and causes the whooshing sound out the tailpipe when warming up right??
Thanks
the PCM raises the idle on a cold engine, the hissing sound is the EBPV closing to aid in engine warm up.
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 08:01 PM
  #27  
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From: Paw Paw, MI
Originally Posted by rickgmi
I just hand tighten the bolts nice and snugg I call it 2 knucle white, when two fingers get white knuckles there tight, you will probably need a few extensions 2 and 6 and a universal...I used a quarter inch drive to reinstall...


The part I dont understand is the diesel in the oil, the clips will not put diesel in teh oil unless you have another problem along with that, did you say you could smell diesel in the oil?

If there is and you only have a little and your only going 3 or four miles I would'nt worry about it..
Thanks. I should have all the tools. But if the clips are loose, and a couple of the injectors are not working when it is working loose, isnt it possible to get blow by of diesel into the oil?? Keep in mind I have no idea what I am talking about, but it sounds feasible at least to me.
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 08:06 PM
  #28  
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rickgmi
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From: Southeast mi
I think your right, but im not sure if the O-rings would let diesel slip from the fuel rail to the cylinder amd past the pistons and into the oil sump/pan

Wish I was closer I would try to come up and help you..
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 08:16 PM
  #29  
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I am sure that someone on here knows, I just hope they read this thread. This place is a wealth of info, and has bailed me out on more than one occasion.

Thanks
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 09:38 PM
  #30  
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MstrFiksIt
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From: Kalamazoo USA
I Looked at this truck today. When you clear the codes they do return right away while the light is on and the vehicle is acting up. It also appears as though fuel is getting into the oil. My guess is the unburned fuel is washing the rings and passing to the oil sump. I have seen this before in gas engines but never on a diesel.

My suggestion is to try the repair laid out here using the quarters. Only might I suggest using a large washer or something other than defacing American currency. Change the oil and filter and then retest.

It might also behoove you to do the wiggle test prior to making any changes. This might make you feel better about the repairs if you can duplicate the light/chug condition vs the no light and no chug condition by wiggling the harness at the valve cover and making the problem come and go you will deffinately know that you are headed in the right direction.

Semper Fi Grunt
see you at the shop tomorrow.
Call me in the morning if anything changes.
Your Truck is secure in the building tonight.
 
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