'92 Ranger 2.3L 2wd.

Ugh! Not another problem!!! =)

Starter wouldn't do a thing about a month ago. Its a reconditioned starter I purchsed from AutoZone about 2 years ago. I push-started the truck and then turned the ignition to the start position to give it some real juice. I heard the starter engage and hadn't had another problem with it until 2 days ago. I guess I was on a bad brush before, but the starter just gave up now. Also, the battery had been slowly pooping out on me.

I again replaced the starter (lifetime warranty). All I got was the "click click". The starter mfct. has changed the ignition post from a slip-over-the-top-of-the-post connecter to a cut 'n crimp w/heatshrink eyelet connector (supposed to eliminate corrosion problems on the starter-mounted solonoid). That shouldn't be the problem. Next day, I took the truck to Advance Auto Parts and had the battery/starter tested. Starter tested good/battery bad. I replaced the battery with a brand spankin' new one.

Still, click click. I replaced the ignition switch (fender mounted switch next to battery which is where most vehicles have the starter solonoid mounted). Thinking I was given a bum starter at AutoZone, I took it back and again re-installed a newly remanufactured starter. Still, click click. Although no test revealed alternator damage, Mr. Autozone thinks that's the problem. Any ideas? Btw, the battery cables get EXTREMELY hot when I try to crank it up. Sizzlin' saliva on the battery terminals is an interesting sight.

1. I've taken jumper cables from the negative post to a heavy gauge ground on the engine to ensure good battery cables/terminal connection.

2. I disconnected the new style crimp/heatshrink ignition wire that attaches to starter mounted solonoid and it DID make a difference (i.e. no clicking sound) so I know that there is a good connection w/juice to the ignition wire.

3. I'm sure that the negative and positive solonoid cables are properly attached to the solonoid and not reversed. And I DID try to reverse them on purpose to see if that would do anything at all. It made some type of rotating sound when I did WITHOUT any cranking. This rotating was not an engine turning event.

Any help is greatly appreciated!!!

-Kevin

 

Hey Kev. welcome to FTE. Okay, my 91 2.3L did this to me once before too i ended up replacing the starter, battery and battery terminals. Try doing the terminals, you can get them from Wally-world for about 5 bucks. Let me know what happens, and we'll work from there....

 

I will try the new terminals, but, when I disconnected the terminals completely and used the jumper cables, wouldn't that eliminate the terminals as the problem? I disconnected the terms. I connected one end of jumper cable to negative post/cylinder head, and one end to positive post/ignition switch relay.

 

I hate to ask this; does the engine turn by hand?
Do both cables get hot or just one. If one - replace that cable.

 

Thanks for the replies. Both cables get hot and I assume the engine would turn by hand because I can push start it. The momentum of the truck, I assume, is no different than the manual labor of hand cranking the crankshaft.

In addition, I was concerned about current. I removed the starter from the engine and attempted to engage it without the load of the engine on it. Same clicking sound.

-Kev

 

Sounds like a shorted starter, when you went to autozone are you sure they gave you a different one?

 

better yet, take it back to them and have them test it on a starter tester. If they don't have one go to another parts house and have them check it, the tests are usually free. They power up the starter via the solenoid and check for no-load amps. It sound like you have way too many of those :-)

 

I am rereading your post, recheck carefully the power cable leading from the solenoid to the starter make sure that it isn't touching anything.

Not to throw an insult, but are you sure you have that heavy cable properly connected? This is a strange one.

 

Hold on:
You refer to the positive and negative solenoid wires - no such thing. You make it sound like you have both sides of the battery connected to the solenoid.

The solenoid has one large terminal to connect to the positive terminal of the battery, the second large terminal connects to a cable which terminates at the positive pole of the starter motor.

 

Hmm...

Well, regardless of where the wires come from (and I was pretty sure one was negative, one positive, and one ignition wire from the ignition relay), I know this:

The only terminals that exist are on the starter-mounted solonoid. There are no terminals coming from the starter motor itself. When I pulled this starter out of the box, I did a continuity test. 2 large terminals on the solonoid, 1 small terminal. One large terminal and small terminal have some continuity and both have some continuity to starter motor ground (housing). The other large terminal has no continuity between itself and either other terminal. The wires are connected the same as they were with the last known working starter. No wires on any terminal are touching any other. I removed the starter and looked at the connections to be sure. I'm not convinced with the heat of the battery terminals and the starter not working that there does not exist a short somewhere.

I think the best idea so far is to remove the starter and make them show me it works =). MAKE ME A BELIEVER MR. AUTOZONE!

Oh, and yes I am sure that I received a different starter than the one I brought back today .

Thanks again!

-Kev

 

OK, I'm confused as to whether you have a fender mounted solenoid (which is what I thought) or one mounted on the motor.

I'll shut-up now :-(

 

You've been a great help for brainstorming, gr8diesel. Your question is a good one. Its screwy. The truck has a fender mounted "ignition relay". It has 3 terminals, much like the starter solonoid. It has 2 large positive terminals and one small gauge terminal that comes from the key ignition switch. When I turn my key to "start", it flips that fender mounted relay and one side that is normally not hot gets juice. That side has a wire that is attached to the small gauge terminal of the solonoid that is mounted ON the starter motor. This ignition wire that gets juice from the fender mounted relay is the power that engages the relay in the solonoid to activate the starter. So you see, there is really 2 relays (one Chilton's calls a solonoid) in sequence to make the starter work. Great design =).

 

OK hook up a Jumper cable ( be sure its a good one with lots of wire in it) direct from the hot side of the battery to the starter. If you can't fit a jumper to the starter cus its to close to something bolt a short pice of battery cable to the starter ( hot post) then to the jumper.
DO NOT USE THE BATTERY CABLE YOU HAVE ON IT NOW because I am thinking its bad.

So try it - if it still doze not work you have a bad conection or wire somewhere around the solenoid most likley.

Also you don't mention it this machine is a stick or auto trans - in any case if you have one check out the NETRAL SAFTY SWTICH as they can sometimes do weard things like this.

Or you could get a Porsche
Let me know Conrad

 

That's a good tip. I guess that's no different than if I were to take it in to have AutoZone test it. This way, I could do it at my apt. w/out having to push start. BTW, It is a manual tranny (thank god I can still push start in case of emergency). In the meantime, I'll park uphill!!!

-Kev

 

Turn the key on do not try to start it and see if your batt cables still get hot.With the batt cables get hot it's drawing alot of current.Check for a short somewhere.I'm I to understand that you took the starter loose from the truck and it still clicked?
Try taking a wire brush and cleaning where the starter mounts.Could be getting a bad ground to the starter.