Battery won't hold charge
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New User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2
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Battery won't hold charge
Recently bought a '69 F250 camper special. Can't keep it running.
I jump start the battery and the engine starts up fine. When driven down the road, it lasts anywhere from 2 to 10 minutes, then the truck dies, battery dead! Have to jump start it again.
So far, this is what I've done:
BATTERY: The battery is good, as I have used it in my '72 F30 van without a problem.
ALTERNATOR: Took it in and had it tested. Tested good.
SOLENOID: replaced with top of the line NAPA brand solenoid.
WIRING: Have used tester, doesn't appear to be any electrical drain.
REGULATOR: Havent done anything with it. I've asked several auto-parts people "Could it be the regulator?" And each time, I am told "probably not" Could they be wrong?
Could the regulator or something else have the wires incorrectly connected? Could it be the regulator is bad?
Would greatly appreciate any help on what could be causing the battery to not re-charge.
Thanks you.
I jump start the battery and the engine starts up fine. When driven down the road, it lasts anywhere from 2 to 10 minutes, then the truck dies, battery dead! Have to jump start it again.
So far, this is what I've done:
BATTERY: The battery is good, as I have used it in my '72 F30 van without a problem.
ALTERNATOR: Took it in and had it tested. Tested good.
SOLENOID: replaced with top of the line NAPA brand solenoid.
WIRING: Have used tester, doesn't appear to be any electrical drain.
REGULATOR: Havent done anything with it. I've asked several auto-parts people "Could it be the regulator?" And each time, I am told "probably not" Could they be wrong?
Could the regulator or something else have the wires incorrectly connected? Could it be the regulator is bad?
Would greatly appreciate any help on what could be causing the battery to not re-charge.
Thanks you.
New User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: North Brunswick USA
Battery won't hold charge
I just replaced my bad voltage regulator. Mine was an easy diagnosis, since I had a new alternator and my voltmeter bounced around in direct relation to the RPMs I was spinning. I would go from 13 volts to 18 volts when running. Since replacement, my voltage is at a constant 14.5 volts when running, and 12 when not running.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,813
Likes: 6
From: Connecticut
Battery won't hold charge
A very easy way to test the alternator-regulator is to start the truck, pull the plug off the regulator and jump the plug. You do this by holding it in your hand and there are 3 slots and a 4th one slightly over. the space between the 3rd and 4th one is farther apart than the rest. You take a heavy piece of wire and jump the 1st and 3rd slot. If the alternator starts to "sing" or work hard, it's ok and the regulator is bad. If not, then the alternator is bad. Very rarely are both bad. Also check the fuseable link by your starter solonoid also to make sure it's not bad. The alternator gets it's start up power thru it. it's a soft wire that has a little rubber block molded into it near the eyelet with a "16" on it. Check this first before you do the other test with the alt.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 609
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From: Watauga TEXAS
Battery won't hold charge
Make certain you have 12V to the main terminal on the back of the alternator while the engine is off. If you don't, that will be your problem. You'll have to track the problem down to see if the wire burnt out or if it is a bad connection.
The only problem I've seen with a bad voltage regulator is that the alternator will overcharge the system. You might blow out a few headlights before you notice it or even blow out fusible links. All the regulator does is keep the voltage constant while alternator RPM increases or decreases.
The only problem I've seen with a bad voltage regulator is that the alternator will overcharge the system. You might blow out a few headlights before you notice it or even blow out fusible links. All the regulator does is keep the voltage constant while alternator RPM increases or decreases.
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Battery won't hold charge
New twist on my on-going saga...
I took out the existing alternator and regulator. Replaced the whole entire set-up with a GM alternator with built in regulator. Got it all wired up (simple operation).
Turned the key, and the truck fired right up. HOWEVER... I took it for a test spin, made it half a mile down the road and the truck died. Ended up towing it home.
Got the truck back in the driveway. Turned the key, and the truck fired up again. It sat and ideled a few minutes, and I turned it off.
Immediately, I turned the key to fire it back up again, nothing !! Wouldn't turn over.
I've looked for a fusible link, can't seem to find anything remotely resembling one.
Unless someone can come up with a grand idea, I'm ready to throw in the towel and take it to the shop.
I took out the existing alternator and regulator. Replaced the whole entire set-up with a GM alternator with built in regulator. Got it all wired up (simple operation).
Turned the key, and the truck fired right up. HOWEVER... I took it for a test spin, made it half a mile down the road and the truck died. Ended up towing it home.
Got the truck back in the driveway. Turned the key, and the truck fired up again. It sat and ideled a few minutes, and I turned it off.
Immediately, I turned the key to fire it back up again, nothing !! Wouldn't turn over.
I've looked for a fusible link, can't seem to find anything remotely resembling one.
Unless someone can come up with a grand idea, I'm ready to throw in the towel and take it to the shop.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Likes: 24
Battery won't hold charge
Change you name quick, Pyromaniac.
The truck thinks it's a competition to who can FIRE UP first.
Now on the serious side.
Have you checked for power to the "S" terminal of the starter Solenoid when you turn the key to the start position everytime ?
You need a helper to do this.
Ignition switches can be intermittently be faulty.
Think process of elimination : Battery,Wiring,Ignition switch,Starter Solenoid,Starter
1)Power or absence of power.
2)Power to starter solenoid
3)Power to starter.
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The truck thinks it's a competition to who can FIRE UP first.
Now on the serious side.
Have you checked for power to the "S" terminal of the starter Solenoid when you turn the key to the start position everytime ?
You need a helper to do this.
Ignition switches can be intermittently be faulty.
Think process of elimination : Battery,Wiring,Ignition switch,Starter Solenoid,Starter
1)Power or absence of power.
2)Power to starter solenoid
3)Power to starter.
[b][i][font color=red]Dennis[/font][i][b]
[font color=red]Calgary,Alberta,Canada[/font]
[link:www.ford-trucks.com/guidelines.html|FTE Moderator]
http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion/Minimorleytruck.JPG
[font color=green] Truck Data Plate Info
[/font
http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion/FordTruckCodes.html
[font color=red]If New Ford Parts Is What You're Cravin',
Then Buy Them HERE,At Motorhaven![/font]
http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion/Mil1ion.html
[font color=red]
Please Don't Ask Me Any Tough Questions,
"I'm Saving My Memory For When I Develop Alzheimer's" [/font]
[font color=blue]78 F-150 429CJ,Silver,Explorer Pkg.
641/2-Mustang 260,Pre-World's Fair Car.
64-Fairlane500 S/C waiting for a 390-4spd.
68-Mustang 289-Sunlit Gold 80,892Mi
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 609
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From: Watauga TEXAS
Battery won't hold charge
Follow mil1ion's advice- but use a voltmeter to check for charging before you make anymore test runs.
Make sure you have power on the "s" terminal every time you crank.
Make sure your cable ends are clean- don't just look at them- rough them up with a terminal cleaner or a screwdiver. This includes the connections at the battery, starter solenoid, block (ground), and the starter itself.
Peel back some of the insulation at the battery ends of the cables to see if there is corrosion creeping up the cables- if in doubt, replace them. They are cheap insurance.
It does sound like you have a bad connection somewhere, or even a bad ignition switch. It's just a matter of isolating it from the rest of the system. When you find it, you'll wonder why it took you so long- I GUARANTEE.
Joe
Make sure you have power on the "s" terminal every time you crank.
Make sure your cable ends are clean- don't just look at them- rough them up with a terminal cleaner or a screwdiver. This includes the connections at the battery, starter solenoid, block (ground), and the starter itself.
Peel back some of the insulation at the battery ends of the cables to see if there is corrosion creeping up the cables- if in doubt, replace them. They are cheap insurance.
It does sound like you have a bad connection somewhere, or even a bad ignition switch. It's just a matter of isolating it from the rest of the system. When you find it, you'll wonder why it took you so long- I GUARANTEE.
Joe
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From: Comox Valley, Canada
Battery won't hold charge
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 01-Jun-02 AT 05:04 PM (EST)] I cant see a battery going dead in 1/2 mile driving, also if the alternator was dying the battery would still keep the truck running.
I have to vote for the ignition switch. Possibly during the driving the weight of the keys and the bouncing of the truck cause it to lose contact for the igntion circuit. Also explains the starts sometimes times and not others.
If a current limiter was blown it is not self healing
, so unless it is just cracked and making intermittent contact you can rule it out.
As suggested check for 12 volts at the "S" terminal of the starter relay when the key is held to start. Of course if the engine is turning over there is most likely 12 volts there, so you have to get it to break while you are checking
But it sure sounds like a worn out ignition switch by the the symptoms. As the switch controls the starting and the running thru its contacts.
Sparky
I just re-read the post and......the ignition switch could also be causing the battery not to charge as the contacts also "turn on" the voltage regulator.
I have to vote for the ignition switch. Possibly during the driving the weight of the keys and the bouncing of the truck cause it to lose contact for the igntion circuit. Also explains the starts sometimes times and not others.
If a current limiter was blown it is not self healing
, so unless it is just cracked and making intermittent contact you can rule it out.As suggested check for 12 volts at the "S" terminal of the starter relay when the key is held to start. Of course if the engine is turning over there is most likely 12 volts there, so you have to get it to break while you are checking
But it sure sounds like a worn out ignition switch by the the symptoms. As the switch controls the starting and the running thru its contacts.
Sparky
I just re-read the post and......the ignition switch could also be causing the battery not to charge as the contacts also "turn on" the voltage regulator.
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