I need to once again, tap the F.T.E. Well Of Infinite Knowledge

I need to either replace the fascia boards or cover them with aluminum fascia covers. My problem is how to handle/remove the seamless gutter. Some of these sections are over 50 feet long. The only connections are the corner pieces but the seams are full of lap sealant and look difficult to remove. Should I just tear out the corner pieces and replace with new corners or is there some better way for one person (me) to handle these gutters?

 

I've removed long seamless gutters before. You will need more than one person to remove them without damage. You're right, the sealant is a drag to remove but with patience and sharp knives, you will eventually remove enough to remove the gutter. I didn't try it, but maybe heating the sealant while cutting will make it easier. Finally, drill out the Al rivets as the last step prior to removal.

 

I can just see these sections buckling and sagging once the spikes are removed. How do you remove and support a long section without this happening?

 

Why dont you determine how wide (tall) your fascia flashing has to be, when you install it, it needs to be behind the drip edge, so you just slide the peices up under the drip edge and attach it by the bottom.

 

Amature hairbrained gutter removal idea: loop a small wire/strap from under the eves, up over the gutter and back to the same spot (screw eye?) with little slack - do this every 8 feet or so then loosen the whole thing until it falls into the 'sling'. Let it hang while you repair the facia then put it back up from one end to the other. Use a long board with a 'saddle' at the top to prop it up as you work. No idea if you can make this work solo but if I had to I might try it.

 

What about bending your aluminum to fit over the fascia in sections 6, 8, 10 ,12 ft. sections (what ever size works best for your situation). Use a saws-all to cut the nails holding the gutter section you are working on, place the metal cover over the fascia (use tacks, brads nails, staples or glue what ever works best for you) to hold in place, when you replace the gutter nails move them over on the back side of the gutter so they go in beside the old nail and move on to the next section. Please understand I have never done this and am not a contractor, just an idea came into my head.
Good luck.

EDIT* only cut the number of nails on a section that will allow it remain stable while you insert the metal behind it.*

 

Form the fascia cover in short sections.
Align it and mark the gutter spike locations.
Notch the fascia with tin snips in those locations.
Slide it up under the gutter and flashing.
Fasten securely.

 

What he said.
He beat me to it. Good call. This is how I did mine and it looks great from the ground. I caulked at the hanger cutouts though, just to make sure (hopefully) I'll never have to spend the weekend on the ladder working on this again.

 

Great minds think alike - (grins mischieviously). I was on a ladder yesterday seeing how far outward I could pry the gutter and I think this approach will work.

I hate leaving that ugly, water damaged fascia up, but given the design of the house, there's no easy way to do otherwise. (The eaves support idea would be good if I had eaves. Its a tiled, hip roof with stucco soffit and walls.)

Thanks all for the suggestions. Can always count on FTE to solve almost any problem.

 

Slather on some concentrated wood preservative b4 you cover it up.

As long as you don't go real overboard on the cuts for the spikes nobody will ever see them even if you replace the gutters at some point. The gutters themselves should be under the flashing so the covering should just slide right in under the gutters without any prying or loosening of the gutters.

Replace any loose spikes with gutter screws.

 

This is the reason I'm removing my gutters. They don't really do anything on my house other than cause problems.