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Best solution is to convert to 134. This is a farily straightforward DIY process. Borrow a buddies vac pump and gauge set and buy a conversion kit. FWIW, you can top it off with 134 or 502 but if it ever goes to a shop for service and they detect anything other than 12 in there (yeah, they test) you're gonna hear about it. Money (yours) fixes what you will hear then tell you.
I am currently using Freeze 12 and it has much better cooling power over converting to R-134a. The freeze 12 can be added to the existing charge or it can be used for a complete refill. I would buy a couple of extra freeze 12 cans and keep them in case of needing a "top off" because I dont know how much longer they will continue to sell it. I have not tried the HOT SHOT but I am very happy with the freeze.
How exactly do you "top off" your A/C system (sorry to hijack). Never done this before...and my A/C does seem kinda warm, compared to our Silverado or Sierra.
Using the correct refrigerant for a given application as well as a gauge set, you charge until the low side is in the correct operating range. High side is not normally needed unless you are diagnosing a problem although it's generally a good idea to look at it anytime a system is serviced.
On my 91, the "high side" is the shrader valve by the canister up around the heater box. The "Low part" is the shrader valve on the line coming from the condensor on the drivers side.
What I recently did with mine is I just converted it to R-134. All you need to do is change out the shrader valves, the O rings (can be the hardest part) and put the refridgerant in it.
I didn't have a vaccuum pump when I did mine. I hooked the can of 134 to the high side like usual, but when I opened it up, I went to the low side and stuck a nail into the valve to open it up, and let the air out as freon took its place. Once freon started to come out, I closed the valve. Then once it sucked that can down, I put another in it, and it blows at 39 degrees on a 75-80 degree day. Worked good ever since.
Oh by the way, my suggestion is to convert it to 134. If you do it right you'll have excellent A/C.
On my 91, the "high side" is the shrader valve by the canister up around the heater box. The "Low part" is the shrader valve on the line coming from the condensor on the drivers side.
Umm, this sounds exactly backwards. High side is comp discharge; low side is comp intake (physical location means nothing). Sometimes, for whatever goofy reason, auto air puts the high side port after the condensor. This = lower than true high side readings. Charge occurs on the low side only; attempts to charge on the high side can result in a can of freon exploding in your hand and face resulting in incredible bodily harm and possible death. If you have any doubt about what you are doing, have someone help you in person.
The reason the system must be completely evacuated when it's opened for service is straightforward. Air does not condense and as such can do a few undesireable things. It will a) result in abnormally and wandering high side readings, possibly causing the relief valve to vent or a hose to blow, depending on the system (hope you're face or body is not in the way) and b) reduces system performance. Since air is incondensible, it can't be throttled and made to boil (phase change), such is one part of the process required for A/C to function.
I bought my freeze 12 at Napa. I could not buy it in the Houston, Tx city limits so I had to drive to an "unregulated" county to get it. And as cowboy said the low side intake is the one to charge system, and as he said if you are unfimiliar please have someone with experience evacuate and recharge the system for you.
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