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Wasnt my ida though... it was either Ivan's or Green's
Yokes size sorry. Im putting on some new u-joints... didnt know what to get or what to build the shafts for on that end.
Yeah a coupling nut would work fine, as long as it was raw and not coated or anything like that cwaziness...
Chris im gonna check out pirate and that vendor you mentioned, thanks
spend the money and buy the proper inserts with jam nuts...i would not trust a coupling nut on steering parts etc, especially for highway duty...
measure the yokes for the size of the ujoint cross....ie the end of the cap to the end of the cap....likely they are 3 1/2" (1310 sized) but possible 1330 37/8" , could be a mix of both, you never know
all three yokes are the same size, but ill measure to make sure.
I will also get weldable rod ends, but the REAL question is:
Do I get chebby TRE's or get some good RE's?
Problem is the TRE's have a 1" dia thread area, and the only RE's I can find that go into the only weldable inserts are 1" and have a 1" bore in the heim. Does that make sense? So I would have to ream out my current TRE holes for the chebbies, but what would I do to get a heim that screws into the 1"-14 rod end insert?
polyperformance only sells the 1" bore size, wich would probably be a little too much reaming on my axle... hahaha
Dang you've got some ***** to cut up that pickup, awesome. Looks good, cant wait to see the tires mounted.
Haha thanks. Well long story short, it is my first truck and my dad graceously bought it for me. I can't be more thankful that I didnt have to buy my first car. However, shortly after buying it, the engine crapped out on me bc it cavitated. He kinda felt bad for picking out a truck that did that so quickly. So that led to me rebuilding the engine and then using his guilt to allowing me to modify it with MY OWN money from then on, as long as they were small mods., like pyro/boost/water guages, exhaust... whatever. So then he comes home and sees the back half of the bed on the ground... WHOA. Had to do a little smooth talking to keep him relatively cool.
Anyways, thanks.
Aight TRE's it is, but now for the rims... do I sell the NIB ons I have that are excessively pimpin for an ORV and get DB's or keep the current ones?
Now I have to find a weldable tube insert that is for a 1.250" ID tube with threads for 1"-18tpi stuff, ie- the 1 ton TRE's. I found some that are 1"-14tpi on www.polyperformance.com , but no 18tpi. Perhaps a call is in order.
First I'll check out some other vendors on Pira___te...
the chevy es2026 and 2027 ends u used were 7/8 threads...the inserts fit into 1" tube i had to drill the ends of my 1.5" 3/8 wall tube out
sounds like those wheels are cast...still i would see if you can get some decent $$ for them, if so at least get a plain steel wheel
i cant tell you how many times i cussed having those weak **** cast aluminum wheels on my junk....ask cutts about our last trip to grayrock...you have to constantly watch banging them into something because they crack and break, they dont bend like forged aluminum and steel
I'm glad you are using the right inserts. If poly doesn't have them one of the vendors over there will. I've made my own inserts by taking pipe that fit inside perfectly and tapping it but with inserts as cheap and available as they are its not worth it these days. The chevy tre's are the way to go, I did. Ivan has the part numbers in his gallery, I wonder if they are the same ones as ko's.
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