9th Heater core!!!
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Joined: Apr 2006
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9th Heater core!!!
Have a 2000 F-250 7.3 Diesel and I am going on my 9th heater core in the past 2 yrs. This last one only lasted 30 days. And all have been replaced by a dealer.
Anyone else have same problem or any suggestions?? This really has me pretty angry.
Anyone else have same problem or any suggestions?? This really has me pretty angry.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
Likes: 8
From: NE Texas
I bet you are angry.
Welcome to FTE, sdrahcir
What has the dealer told you was the reason behind such an anomaly? Have they checked the pressure in the cooling system? Did the cores "rot" out? Corrosion by some contaminant?
What have you seen that may have caused it?
Welcome to FTE, sdrahcir
What has the dealer told you was the reason behind such an anomaly? Have they checked the pressure in the cooling system? Did the cores "rot" out? Corrosion by some contaminant?
What have you seen that may have caused it?
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They have checked the pressure, system has been flushed, hoses been changed, core's seem to rot out and the dealer keeps saying that it's an electrolysis problem.
But they haven't been able to determine where the "electrolysis" is coming from. Just called the dealer to take the truck back in and they are suggesting a brass heater core for $50.00 and that's no guarantee that it will resolve the problem.
But they haven't been able to determine where the "electrolysis" is coming from. Just called the dealer to take the truck back in and they are suggesting a brass heater core for $50.00 and that's no guarantee that it will resolve the problem.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
Likes: 8
From: NE Texas
If they claim electrolysis, then have they tested to see what chemical is causing it?
Surely they did an analysis after the second go 'round...but probably not.
There has to be a contaminant leaching or leaking from somewhere into your cooling system. They should have taken it to a lab to determine what that chemical or combination of chemicals were. Process of elimination is easy, but the dealer has to initiate it...seems to me. If not you may have to take a sample and have it tested.
Surely they did an analysis after the second go 'round...but probably not.
There has to be a contaminant leaching or leaking from somewhere into your cooling system. They should have taken it to a lab to determine what that chemical or combination of chemicals were. Process of elimination is easy, but the dealer has to initiate it...seems to me. If not you may have to take a sample and have it tested.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,859
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From: USA
I would be doing the litmus paper test in the radiator bottle.
Wrong coolant being used or you may have a head gasket problem with sulfur getting into the coolant system from diesel fuel.
Don't laugh I've seen it happen.
Rich
Wrong coolant being used or you may have a head gasket problem with sulfur getting into the coolant system from diesel fuel.
Don't laugh I've seen it happen.
Rich
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,800
Likes: 52
From: Southern Colorado
Check the voltage
Motor magazine has recorded many F150 heater core problems due to electrolysis. Many mechanics had tried things like grounding the heater core itself, but there was no clear '1 fix' that worked in all cases.
Start by testing the voltage being created by your cooling system. A cooling system (under non-ideal conditions) becomes a battery - with dissimilar metals and an electrolyte (coolent).
Put the positive probe of your voltmeter into the coolent (not touching any metal and with (or course) the radiator cap off) and put the neg probe on the neg terminal of the battery. Do this with the engine off and with the engine running. Let us know what you find, as far as voltages. If you see a few millivolts, you're ok. If you see 2-3 volts, that would be high.
There's much stuff on the web declaring what an acceptable voltage level is - I'm not sure, but it shouldn't be very high. Do some Google searches on causes and fixes. A brass heater core should help, but is hardly the fix you need.
Steve
Start by testing the voltage being created by your cooling system. A cooling system (under non-ideal conditions) becomes a battery - with dissimilar metals and an electrolyte (coolent).
Put the positive probe of your voltmeter into the coolent (not touching any metal and with (or course) the radiator cap off) and put the neg probe on the neg terminal of the battery. Do this with the engine off and with the engine running. Let us know what you find, as far as voltages. If you see a few millivolts, you're ok. If you see 2-3 volts, that would be high.
There's much stuff on the web declaring what an acceptable voltage level is - I'm not sure, but it shouldn't be very high. Do some Google searches on causes and fixes. A brass heater core should help, but is hardly the fix you need.
Steve
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,339
Likes: 5
From: NJ
Ahh, this is a problem I have delt with at my shop. There is more than 1 tsb on this problem.
Let me start off by saying the best fix I have found so far is:
1. Remove the inlet heater hose from the core, install a hose clamp and pinch a piece of 12-14 gage wire between the core and the clamp. Now run this wire directly to battery ground. Reinstall the heater hose.
2. Check all grounds, including the battery's themselves, engine block, chassis, and body. Don't just look at them and say they are connected. Either check the with a meter,or even better remove and clean them.
3. If all else fails, you can try adding an inline restrictor to the inlet side of the core. (I am not really convinced that this step works, but ford recommends is in extreme cases.)
Another note, I have tried the copper heater core solution as well. It will not be eaten and leak like the aluminum, however it will become clogged in a short amount of time requiring flushing. When cleaned a white substance will come out, then all will be fine for another short while. I suspect that the electrolysis attacks the copper in another fashion then the aluminum.
The short of the long is add the ground wire and go over the grounds as I have directed you and I will give you a 99% chance that you will post back a happy camper again.
Let me start off by saying the best fix I have found so far is:
1. Remove the inlet heater hose from the core, install a hose clamp and pinch a piece of 12-14 gage wire between the core and the clamp. Now run this wire directly to battery ground. Reinstall the heater hose.
2. Check all grounds, including the battery's themselves, engine block, chassis, and body. Don't just look at them and say they are connected. Either check the with a meter,or even better remove and clean them.
3. If all else fails, you can try adding an inline restrictor to the inlet side of the core. (I am not really convinced that this step works, but ford recommends is in extreme cases.)
Another note, I have tried the copper heater core solution as well. It will not be eaten and leak like the aluminum, however it will become clogged in a short amount of time requiring flushing. When cleaned a white substance will come out, then all will be fine for another short while. I suspect that the electrolysis attacks the copper in another fashion then the aluminum.
The short of the long is add the ground wire and go over the grounds as I have directed you and I will give you a 99% chance that you will post back a happy camper again.
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