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You actually have to be moving to generate a voltage using manual trailer brake or brake in truck to activate trailer brakes. I think the threshold is about 6 mph. When I picked up my trailer, we had to drive with the trailer tester connected to show a voltage. Do you get a green trailer on the controller panel when trailer is plugged in?
I would test with empty trailer to ensure lockup at say 10 mph. If you get a red trailer on the controller or no lockup with trailer connected, search for correct wiring of trailer, it might be you need a new controller?
Trailer is in the shop with wheels elevated off the ground (and boat on boat stands) My brother spins one wheel on the trailer and when the Towcommand is activated manually it stops the wheel instantly.
When wheel is spun again and the pedal is depressed (truck running), the wheel does not stop spinning, trailer brake actuator is making noise, but not near as loud as when brakes are applies manually.
I thought it may be that we weren't moving as well, but I went out and hooked onto our skid steer trailer and the manual method would lock up all the tires, but the pedal would not.
I then pulled the truck back into the shop and tested the voltage at the 7-pin, and that is where the 11.75 and the 2.7 discrepency was found, while the truck was stationary.
By the way, Boat trailer is electric over hydraulic whis was out first problem, but have since installed a new actuator compatible with the new TowCommand system. Skid steer trailer is pure electric.
I appreciate your input, however I am reading these voltages while the truck is parked and they are consistent with how the brakes are behaving.
So, a better test would be to hook onto my skid steer trailer and get her up to 20 or so and see if the brakes lock up as well with the pedal as they do with the slider?
Does the truck take into account speed when trailer brakes are applied via pedal,but not by the manual slider? If so, it seems that would be quite a safety concern if you were in a pull-off/parking lot/RV park and found that you couldn't stop with your pedal and had to use the manual slider when under a certain speed.
The first edition of the integrated brake controller had a known issue where it would not produce enough voltage to activate the trailer brakes when the vehicle speed was low (under 10MPH?) This posed a problem when pulling a heavy trailer in stop-and-go/rush-hour traffic. I can't remember if the manual slider would function properly or not.
Sounds like this might be your problem... there's a second version of the IBC which fixes the problem.
I believe you can get the controller swapped under warranty if you complain loud enough to your dealer - there should even be a TSB out on it. Search around in here - you should find plenty of threads referring to the problem.
Well, mine is a medium build 2005 6.0. Its a safety feature to not flat spot tires on an empty trailer. If you have any weight, and you are moving, it will lock them up either way. I tested this several times before I pulled my new TT off the lot. When sitting still, manual trailer activates, brake pedal also does, but somewhat less. If moving, both work and will actually make the trailer tires squeel if you have the bias pushed up to 9.5. I ended up running 7.5 and 8.0. Stops seem'd very controlled. Remember this is an integrated brake controller, it is integrated with the brain of the truck, has access to anti lock wheel sensor data that you are not moving or that you are slowing down adequately. I think you need to attach the trailer and try, then with a load and test to know for sure. Are you getting a green trailer connection on the controller?