Hey guys, first off I would like to wish everyone a Happy Easter to you and you're Family. Secondly, my new PSD needs some FTE Help ASAP!!

Alright now thats out of the way, here is the shopping list of things i think the rig needs to nurse her back to health, to start off so you know what i'm working with, it's a 1997 F-350 PSD, With 140K, Auto trans that was rebuilt 30K ago. The truck was originally used to pull a Bob-cat for a landscaping company for about 100K of it's life, then purchased by a close friend of mine who had the trans rebuilt and used it for a construction rig. My friend is getting one of those fang-dangled 6.0 *cough cough* and wanted his old truck to have a good home. I picked it up for a song, but she needs some work. Here is the list of things i think she needs done, as a note i will be doing all the work myself, so it would be helpfull if you could let me know how in depth this project will be. The truck can stay off the road for as long as needed to get fixed, so i don't mind taking my time with it....here goes!

The major issue with the truck is starting and here is a list of things that could happen when the key is first turned when the engine is cold in the morning (even though it is 60+ degrees out):

1) Turn key, wait to start, truck will fire right up (as a not the volt-meter on the dash does not flick back and forth to show that the glow plugs are still running) ALSO smoke is BLACK/BLUE for about 15-20 sec once started

2) Turn key, wait to start, starter grinds. Wait.... Try again fires right up. (again no jumping of the volt-meter) AGAIN smoke is BLACK/BLUE for about 15-20 sec once started

3) Turn key, wait to start, crank, Black smoke pours out exhaust, and from under hood (we'll get to that in a minute...)...Wait again... Same thing... wait again... fires up like nothing has happened... AGAIN smoke is BLACK/BLUE for about 15-20 sec once started...

Since I noticed the smoke from under the hood, i wanted to find the source, which turned out to be the seal on the exhaust downpipe spitting some smoke out...

NOW is time to spend some of my $$$$ here is the list of things i think that are needed.... let me know if you think this will solve my problems... I will also list some questions next to each one...

1) Re-built starter (fixes grinding)... Does the starter need any shims, or is it just a direct bolt-On application?
2) Glow Plug Relay (expensive... anyone know where to get a reliable one... around 90-100??)
3) Glow Plugs (they have NEVER been replaced... even if there is some left in them... it's not much... I'm going to do them anways...)
4) Injector O-Rings (again never replaced) how much of a pain is it to do these? I'm going to have the valve covers off anyways for the glow plugs, so i might as well do them too to help in the blue/black smoke issue... anyone have a goos set of instructions-picutres you could give me a link too?
5) New Down pipe ( truck already has stright-piped, no cat-muffler exhaust, and with the turbo outlet leaking, i might as well just put in a new DP) anyone know where i can order a 2-piece one online that will require minimal bending of the cab-firewall and boltup to where the cat used to be?? (I don't have a welder )

Well that's the list.... Let me know if you think this should cover all the bases, and if you have any other sugestions as to what i should fix/test/replace... also the issue involving the volt-meter not cycling... i'm not sure what that relates to... i'm hoping GPR or the air temp sensor in the box... let me know what you think about that that... thanks a bunch guys... I appreciate any info you may have on the matter and have a great easter!

-Robb

 

ALSO wondering if i should throw the CPS in from my last truck as precautionary measure.... It's still in good condition and might help with the starting isssue... wow i didn't even thing of that...

 

The starter bolts on with no shims. The glow plugs are easy to replace and not that expensive. The injector o-rings aren't bad to replace, and I'm sure there are detailed instructions somewhere.

 

I got my down pipe, (3" to 4") from Dale Isley, Tymar Performance. Fit real nice. I paid a little more and had him get it ceramic coated for me.

TymarPerformance.com

 

sounds good guys... any comments on my starting issue? anyone know how to test/check the IRP and IPC?? would those have an effect on starting?? thanks!

 

The symptoms sound right but the smoke is the wrong color. Signs of a weak or inoperative glow plug system are hard starts with white or white/blue smoke.

Black smoke normally means too much fuel for the amount of air injested. Possibly as simple as a restricted intake or exhaust?

How does it run once it's started?

 

Buy a new starter off e-bay for $92. Buy a GPR at Napa for $15. Get your downpipe from Dale. Get a new ICP off e-bay for around $50 and a new IPR off e-bay for around $80. Everything is new. If you want I can hook you up with the merchants I used to obtain all my new stuff. PM me if you want.

 

Cookie, I guess the smoke could be called "grayish white" as opposed to black. Intake has a new filter (i will be putting a homemade tymar on soon also) and exhause is stright piped w/ no cat although it still has the stock DP. Once it's started it runs well, Not like a new truck but good for 140K... let me know what you think..

F350_hauler, I'm sending you a PM, if you could give me the info on the merchants you used that would be great..

Thanks again for you're time guys... any more suggestions would be greately appreciated...

-Robb

 

F350_hauler...I can't seem to get PM to work on my computer right now, it will not allow me to write anything in the body of the message. If it works on yours, and could send me that information it would be great. Thanks

-Robb

 

Does anyone know if the check valve that goes from the HPOP to the engine is something that a weekend wrench can replace... and a part number, or someplace you can get one? I think my HPOP is draining above all these other problems.... thanks guys

 

Did you look in the HPO reservoir and make sure it is leaking down? With the reservoir empty the truck will not start...at all.

If it is leaking down...yes you can fix it. Generally all that is necessary is to pull the spring and checkball and get the gunk out of the seat, then just put it back together.

 

welcome back robb
i bet you wish you never got rid of the 60k prestine beauty huh?
hows your school going?

 

Hey thanks for the warm welcome! And let me say that it's good to be back! I missed the smell of diesel in the morning! Yea I do miss the old rig, but i needed to pay for school. It didn't seem like the right time to have money tied up in that, plus the fact that it would have sit in my driveway because frreshman can't have cars up here. School is going very well, and i'm 4 weeks away from being done with my first year of the civil engineering program at UNH. The classes are tough, but it will all pay off in the end.

As for the new truck, my friend back at home decited that he wanted a 6.0 (sorry I couldn't talk him out of it) and sold me his old rig. She got some dings in dents, but the heart is still a good 'ol 7.3 and that the important thing! I will try and get the picks up in my gallary this afternoon so you can check it out and tell me what you think. NOTE: Just got the picks up... let me know what you think

I'm back home in 4 weeks get to start this project, aside from working at a local hardware store 5 days a week. I'll keep you posted on how everything goes. Thanks again for the help

-Robb

 

Dang Robb! You have a knack for finding the good looking rigs. Very nice.

 

Thank you kindly sir!!

-Robb