Failed CA SMOG
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 195
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From: Wilton, Ca
FAILED AGAIN
I put in some GUARANTEE TO PASS by crc Drove it to use a tankfull of gas.
The I put is some Chevron Hi Octain and with the new wires I felt sure.
The numbers are about the same.
test HC (PPM) Max GP MEAS
15MPH 329 597 860 GROSS POLLUTER
25MPH 279 529 910 GROSS POOLUTER
Going to take it in next Wed $$$$$$$$$$$
DON
I put in some GUARANTEE TO PASS by crc Drove it to use a tankfull of gas.
The I put is some Chevron Hi Octain and with the new wires I felt sure.
The numbers are about the same.
test HC (PPM) Max GP MEAS
15MPH 329 597 860 GROSS POLLUTER
25MPH 279 529 910 GROSS POOLUTER
Going to take it in next Wed $$$$$$$$$$$
DON
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,231
Likes: 1
From: Near Fresno, California
I would not take it back until I found something wrong and fixed it. What sort of vacuum are you running? If you don't have one, vacuum gauges are cheap - you should be able to find one for less than $10. If you can't, pm me and I will send you one.
You might try spraying wd40 around the carb and intake manifold while the engine is at an idle. If you have a vacuum leak the speed of the engine should change when the WD is sucked in.
btw, I have used Pep Boys repair for this sort of thing - not the best or the cheapest, but OK. Most shops will try to sell you a rebuilt carb - very expensive and not the best way to troubleshoot this problem.
Rebuild kits are $30/60 - they want $250 for a rebuilt carb. If it is the power valve you should be able to replace it yourself without getting too deep into the carb.
You never said what sort of carb you are running, but I would read this about carbs:
http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250...rb/carb01.html -- even if your carb is different it explains how they work.
You might try spraying wd40 around the carb and intake manifold while the engine is at an idle. If you have a vacuum leak the speed of the engine should change when the WD is sucked in.
btw, I have used Pep Boys repair for this sort of thing - not the best or the cheapest, but OK. Most shops will try to sell you a rebuilt carb - very expensive and not the best way to troubleshoot this problem.
Rebuild kits are $30/60 - they want $250 for a rebuilt carb. If it is the power valve you should be able to replace it yourself without getting too deep into the carb.
You never said what sort of carb you are running, but I would read this about carbs:
http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250...rb/carb01.html -- even if your carb is different it explains how they work.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Wilton, Ca
The only thing that has changed from the last time it was smoged is the Valve Covers.I bought so chrome ones to dress it up a little.
I noticed on the oraginal ones the is some kind of baffel on the underside of where the hose goes to the air cleaner,the chrome ones don,t
Could this have something to do with it
The carb is a 2v
Don
I noticed on the oraginal ones the is some kind of baffel on the underside of where the hose goes to the air cleaner,the chrome ones don,t
Could this have something to do with it
The carb is a 2v
Don
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,231
Likes: 1
From: Near Fresno, California
Originally Posted by RDON
The only thing that has changed from the last time it was smoged is the Valve Covers.
Don
Don
If your pvc valve "rattles" the valve covers do not have anything to do with it - the baffels are there to keep oil and gunk out of the pvc circuit.
If the valve rattles it indicates the check valve is not gunked up.
Sorry, but there is no easy way out of this - - -
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,172
Likes: 1
From: Oakdale,Ca.
Couple things come to mind.
First, since you're doing a roller dyno, don't worry abuot messing with the idle-air bleed...at 15 and 25 MPH, you're pass the idle transition and running on the primary circuit.
If the engine is shaking, that's your first clue, you have a dead/weak cylinder...that dead/weak cyclinder is not burning fuel effiently and your HC's are high.
If it were me, I'd pull each plug wire while it was running (one at a time), and probably come across one when pulled, that didn't affect the idle quality as much.
Then compression test that cylinder vs another one to see if compression is lower.
If the compression test comes out fine, then look towards the igition, but since you've done plug/wires/cap and rotor....probably will not be an issue. Could be something goofy like a swapped wire, or possibly broken reluctor in the dizzy.
I'm thinking that poor valve seating might be the issue, since your way high at both speeds.
First, since you're doing a roller dyno, don't worry abuot messing with the idle-air bleed...at 15 and 25 MPH, you're pass the idle transition and running on the primary circuit.
If the engine is shaking, that's your first clue, you have a dead/weak cylinder...that dead/weak cyclinder is not burning fuel effiently and your HC's are high.
If it were me, I'd pull each plug wire while it was running (one at a time), and probably come across one when pulled, that didn't affect the idle quality as much.
Then compression test that cylinder vs another one to see if compression is lower.
If the compression test comes out fine, then look towards the igition, but since you've done plug/wires/cap and rotor....probably will not be an issue. Could be something goofy like a swapped wire, or possibly broken reluctor in the dizzy.
I'm thinking that poor valve seating might be the issue, since your way high at both speeds.
Last edited by 3Mike6; Apr 14, 2006 at 10:40 PM.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
Likes: 18
From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
Also see how far the spark will jump, in case the coil is weak. Loosen the wire at the coil, then pull it out while it's running. It should go over an inch. If it won't, there is a problem with the coil or the primary ignition.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,231
Likes: 1
From: Near Fresno, California
Originally Posted by RDON
[B]
Would a vacuum gauge indacate a leak????
Don
Would a vacuum gauge indacate a leak????
Don
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Wilton, Ca
Originally Posted by WillyB
RDON, have you done your valve job yet? Did it pass this time?
He told me that in all his years he had NEAVER seem heads with that meany shimes(what ever that means) and I was lucky to have made it this long.
Said ever thing else looks good.There is no croves in the cylinders wall.
Told me when I pick up the truck it will be smoged.
You neaver know how much you miss your truck till you don't have it
Don
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Wilton, Ca
Got my truck back Thur(5-18) What a diffrance.I though it was running good before,but this seems like a diffrent motor.It has fast responce,and seems like it has a lot more power. Went to Bakersfield and wish I would have checked the milage. I know it is a LOT better.Didn't like spending the money,But it was worth every penny.I'm one happy camper
Don
Don
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