I have a F250 with front drums. This is the ones with the 3 screws holding on the drum. 2 are flat head screws and 1 is a allen head screw. I cannet get either of the flat head screws to budge. I've used penitrating oil and a manual impack screw driver. All I managed to do was bend the screw driver tip out of shape. Any tricks on getting them off???

Can I take the hub off to gain access tothe pads and springs? Is it worth it to take the hub off??

Does anyone know the size brakes I have on the front from the description?? 2" or 2 1/2"??

Thank you

 

im trying to recall, i think yes you can remove the hub. and at least you can repack the bearings when you do.

 

You could find someone with a nuematic wrench to get em off!

 

u have to take off the whole hub assembly to get the drum off

 

Update... All appart and I learned a new trick...

Tooke me 3 days to get drivers side (1st side) off. Using lots of PB Blaster and some heat. I sprayed and sprayed PBB and managed to bend the driver bit as mentioned in post 1. I than heated around the screws and proceded to brake the bit. After 2 more days of PBB spraying and sitting and getting a new bit I finaly broke free 2 or the 3 screws. The 3rd one had an allen head and I did not have a 1/2 drive allen socket so I torched out the 3rd screw. After I got the threads out and no damage was done to the hud assy an minimal damage done to the drum.

The pass side (2nd) side was the same. I spraged PBB and proceded to dent than brake the 2nd bit within 10 minutes. I used PBB and heat as I did on the other side. I than knew the drum was coming off one way or another so I could get the drakes put back together this weekend. I probeded to heat the 3 screws so ther were cherry red. I than let them cool and sprayed more PBB on them and wouldn't you know it they came off with little effort with a regular screw driver. This side took me a total of about 30 minutes to get the drum off, and the screws are reusable.

 

Awesome, turn the screws molten and at the same time temper them. I'll have to remember that.

 

no.... I did not turn them when molten. I let them cool because when molten I would have stripped the head most likely. I beleve what happened is I either burnt off the rust or the screw expanding (heat) and contracting(cooling) broke the rust free.

Took the rears off today and letting PBB set on "drum hold on screws" for about 3 hours they turned without any real effort.