I need to check my brakes out but I'm not sure how to get the front brake drums off. This is a 1966 F-250 4x4. Do I disassemble the hub and pull the drum and hub as one unit? Is this where I need a large (2 5/16" I think) socket? Do I only need to remove the three large slotted screws if I want to separate the drum from the hub?


Second question is what is a good repair manual that will answer this kind of question for me? I have a 1971 Motor's Auto Repair Manual which is good, but of course there are no trucks in it.


Thanks for any help.

 

For general use, it's tough to beat a Motors. For what you are doing you want the the Ford Truck Shop Manual for 1966. It's going to have all the inspection, maintenance and repair information in step by step format. I don't see why anybody would have an old truck without a manual. There are CD versions, and paper copies available as reprints. They aren't giving them away but not too bad,

You might even find the information online for free, in .PDF format, if you dig around.

 

It looks the same as my 62 F250 4x4. The slotted screws come out and you should be able to remove the drum without messing with the bearings. It might be rusted on or you might have to loosen the adjuster so the shoes clear the drum.

An manual impact driver is a must for getting those screws out.

 

I found the BFS worked well for the screws. You can see the BFS in this post.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12704541


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Thanks, I've got a pneumatic impact but it's just tearing up the screw slots.
I think a little heat is in my future.
Ted, I definitely will get a manual.

 

With the BFS in hand I can put a huge amount of torque on the screw slots without fear of slipping or chewing up the slots which is nice. When they do let go the first time they sound like a small caliber firearm going off. Quite the loud "POP" when they break loose.


If the slot is getting buggered up and if heat doesn't do the trick - you can always drill them out. Only about 3/4" deep and nothing directly behind them. They don't have to go back on if you don't want to run with them. They were a factory thing to keep the drums from falling off before the wheels were mounted.


Or if you want something close an option is Fastenal has the same dimension screws but with an Allen head which should make it easier to remove in the future.


BTW: none of the manuals I've looked at even mention the screws or how to get the drums off if they aren't budging so not every detail will be discussed as far as I can tell. And not to the depth that might be required. But, I'd still highly recommend the factory shop manuals. There are 4 volumes for 1966.


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The manual impact driver won't tear them up and I've found it to be handy all over the place. It requires a BFH to be effective. The Big F'n Screwdriver would also be very handy elsewhere, such as removing the threaded collar on the headlight light switch. Both worthy investments for a DIYer without breaking the bank.

 

Maybe my screws were rusted in worse and had been torqued down tighter before, but I tried manual impact drivers myself, two different ones that I have, but found they were going to tear up the slot edges if I continued down that path. The biggest straight bits just were not big enough. Not nearly. Maybe your kits have a much wider and thicker bit, but I looked at some others online and didn't see much larger than what I had. I'm probably being a little fussier, too, in wanting to save the existing screws with minimal, if any, damage.


So, I took the "right tool for the job" approach to the next level and took an existing screw with me and went hunting. Grainger just down the road from my place had the BFS.


But, I don't think you are thinking"BFS" enough in this case. A screwdriver that would fit the headlight switch nut, at least on my 1966 trucks, is about 3/8". Like this.





Not nearly big enough for the drum retaining screws, at least the way mine were welded on, or so it seemed. What I came up with won't fit the headlight switch nut. Too big, as you can see. Both too wide and too thick.





But, the drum retaining screws can take a much more substantial driver than the headlight switch nut as you can see in this comparison. The driver on the right is a 5/16", middle is 3/8" and the BFS is 5/8" wide at the flat of the blade tip.





If I zoom out some you can finally get the true scale of the BFS. It's not just big. It is a lethal weapon. A whopping 27" long from tip to tail. I could probably take out two guys at once with this thing. Lol....seriously though, it is big enough to get two people operating it and it takes one or more 1/2" open-end wrenches on the shank for a bit extra torque if needed. Don't worry, you won't twist the shank...at least not real easily.





The blade width and thickness is perfect for these particular screws. Try this with your impact driver bits, manual or pneumatic. Stick the screw onto the blade tip and see if it stays there by itself. Works with my driver. And yet not so big that it digs into the countersink at all. That's another thing I wanted to avoid.





Why care to save the screws part number 359189-S8 at all?





Well, these are the last 3 NOS ones that I have. Anybody else know of any NOS in the box? Anywhere? PM me if you have a secret squirrel. Good used ones are hard to come by, too, as most anyone that has dealt with them can attest to. How many nice used ones do people have?







Of course, you can always run without them, or substitute the Fastenal product that is same dimensions but Allen head. And black phosphate instead of silver cadmium like the originals but if you don't mind Allen head then the finish is probably not a huge concern.




Here's an older shot I took of the manual impact drivers next to the BFS, too, for scale.





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Holy cow, that is one sweet BFS! My impact was an OK fit and I had to hammer on them for a while before they broke loose.

Ruff, now you've seen what we've used. Let us know how it worked out.

 

Thanks for taking the time to post guys.
It's been raining all day so I haven't snuck out to the truck yet.

 

This set is on ebay. Is it the factory one to have?
I sent the seller a question but no answer yet. Does it cover 4x4's?

 

Ahmen a factory shop manual is my first purchase when I get an old car or truck!

 

Ruff, I recently picked up a 66 F250 4x4 and was lucky enough to get an original 4 volume shop manual set along with a 1966 Ford Service Specifications for trucks manual for around $70 bucks from Paul Politis in Pa. His email: Politpaul@yahoo.com or you can call him at 717-597-4332
I was very impressed by his service and the manuals i received were amazing. Give him a call.

 

Thanks Gen. Did they cover 4x4 repairs?

 

They have great exploded views of the various models for that year, some info but better than nothing. Looks like you need to go to section 2-20 in the volume 1 shop manual, it gives you the steps to remove and then install your front drums, etc..Im getting ready to go through my brakes soon too so let me know how yours go...