Hi Guys: I know the 6.0L air filter is a great quality unit, so that is why I'm asking this question. I've reached 30k miles with my 6.0 and the manual says, it's now time to change the air filter. At this point I am still getting great mileage, approx 21-22 unloaded @ 70- 75 mph. The truck is used on the road only and not in overly dusty conditions, except,sometimes at the race track.( the motor isn't running) I use the truck mainly for hauling trailers, so when its towing I do have my foot in it. The indicator shows no change from when the truck was new. So the question is should I change the air filter now or wait untill the mileage falls off or the indicator shows some change? Thanks. Blair

 

Don't believe the idiot gauge. Open the filter housing and visually inspect it. It is a pain. I would just replace it. Once you notice a MPG loss then you have been starving the engine of air. Personally I changed mine by the mileage. So I would change it if it was mine. Kind of pricey for filters but go with the best. It is an investment in your machine.

 

Will likely wind up being a "you make the call" decision anyway. I didn't change my first one out 'til 20,000 miles. Will probably not change again 'til 40,000 miles. Currently at 29,000 miles and all is well.

 

X GM Guy,

This is taken directly from the "6.0L Diesel Supplement Manual" that should have come with your truck.

"Air filter restriction gauge.
The restriction gauge, located on the upper housing of the air cleaner assembly, measures the vacuum inside the air cleaner. The more the air cleaner is restricted (dirty, clogged), the higher the vacuum reading
Check the air filter restriction gauge whenever the hood is raised to perform general engine maintenance at least every 7,500 miles (12,000 km). If the vehicle is operated in extremely dusty conditions, check the gauge at least every 500 miles (800 km), or two weeks, whichever comes first.
Change the air filter when the gauge reads 25 inches (635 mm). Engine performance and fuel economy are adversely affected when the maximum restriction is reached.
Blowing-out the air filter element with compressed air is not recommended as the compressed air may damage the filter paper.
Note: It is not possible to determine the level of filter clogging by visual appearance alone. A filter which appears to be dirty may actually have
several thousand miles (kilometers) of life remaining.
Always use the underhood air filter restriction gauge to determine when the air filter element needs to be changed. The warning light on the instrument cluster should not be used exclusively for determining when the air filter element needs changing."

Most of the heavy off road equipment i have been around, we change the air filter based on the restriction gauge.

Hope this helps

 

I'll probably change my stocker at 30K and maintain that interval. Even in the dust these things hold up well.

 

As another opinion, I changed mine at 40K miles and it could have gone further. The clean side was still pristine. Dirty side was still fairly clean. Conditions and personal preference should be your guide. At 40K my filter minder had never moved.

Best of Luck and enjoy your truck.

 

Your air filter is an extremely important part of your engine. At least visually inspect it before running another 10k miles; personally, I'd change it now, but if you have the conditions you described, you might very well get up to the 40k on the same filter. I wouldn't stretch it past that.

 

I had the dealer replace mine at 30K. I had them save the filter for me and it didn't look bad at all. Plus the gauge hadn't moved at all. I would have replace my self, but even with the tech folder info, I couldn't get the darned thing out! Is there an easy trick that i'm missing? The bottom of the housing just didn't want to let go!

 

When those gauges move, you have lost a lot of flow. Don't go by those.

I always did a visual before I bought a aftermarket setup.

 

For just a few more minutes of time you can pull the whole intake out by loosening the hose clamp before it goes to the turbo. Take off the MAF sensor and any other hoses and just pull the whole thing out. Then while it is out it is easy to open to remove the air filter. This is what I do and it takes little more than 5 minutes or so once you have done it a couple of times.

 

Does anyone have a tech bulletin or a set of pictures to demonstrate the replacement procedure?

 

http://home.austin.rr.com/sbv1/Proce...irFilterRR.htm

In the Tech Folder.

 

Thanks for the info. I will be changing the air cleaner soon. Let you know what I find.

 

Just bought an 06 F250 with the 6.0 and I am thinking about putting in a K&N filter or maybe even a complete airintake system. Priced a K&N at 304.00 today. I have not priced a Raid system yet.

What do you guys think about going with a air intake system? Does anyone have one now and what do you think about it?

Phish555
06 F250 super duty, super cab.

 

Phish - why? The Powercore system that's in there is regarded to be quite exceptional as far as flow AND filtration. The K&N might give you more flow... but it'll give you less filtration, and such a system will breathe *hot* underhood air.

If you want to spend money, an exhaust or a tuner might be more useful (along with gauges, of course).