Kaboom!!!
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
Likes: 4
From: Iowa
Well the new guides dont look bronze. Probably steel or iron. They have a tight spiral pattern to them on the inside. The valves are standard replacement, not chromed.
You're probably right on the material transfer. The bad valves look like they have little bumps on 'em.
Running spring spacers. Ford made many FE's with spring spacers between the rockers; if there was something seriously wrong with them we would probably know it. At least that's how I see it. If I decide to turn the thing 6500rpm on a regular basis I may consider a change, but since that's not happening in the forseeable future, springs will work just fine. The C6 that's in it shifts before 5500rpm, and I'm too chicken to manually shift it.
Also running umbrella seals. No positive seals here.
You're probably right on the material transfer. The bad valves look like they have little bumps on 'em.
Running spring spacers. Ford made many FE's with spring spacers between the rockers; if there was something seriously wrong with them we would probably know it. At least that's how I see it. If I decide to turn the thing 6500rpm on a regular basis I may consider a change, but since that's not happening in the forseeable future, springs will work just fine. The C6 that's in it shifts before 5500rpm, and I'm too chicken to manually shift it.
Also running umbrella seals. No positive seals here.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
I didn't follow this thread from the beginning, was this a fresh valve job with new valves and guides? I know aluminum / bronze guides will stick on a air cooled motorcycle motors due to expansion and higher head temperatures as on Porsches. (San Mateo bridge 6.42 miles full throttle speed runs).
Sounds like you have cast iron guides, I run Ohio high nickel guides that at 200K will have little stem wear on chromed stems but the guides hold clearances. I run the biggest umbrellas that clear the springs.
This gives you time for that intake port job.
.....=o&o>.....
Sounds like you have cast iron guides, I run Ohio high nickel guides that at 200K will have little stem wear on chromed stems but the guides hold clearances. I run the biggest umbrellas that clear the springs.
This gives you time for that intake port job.
.....=o&o>.....
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 867
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From: Eastern Pa
Which one you use is still your choice but just wanted to chime in that the Streetmaster is not just an over 3000rpm maniflold. Quite the contrary. It was developed in the 70's during the first gas crunch we experienced and was intended for off idle to 5500, with economy i mind. That's why the runners are small to keep veloctiy moving. My son used both the performer and streetmaster on his build and the difference is a bit hard to tell.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
Likes: 4
From: Iowa
Yes, it was a fresh valve job with all new valves and all new guides. The problem I was having before was too much oil consumption, causing fouled plugs. I eventually traced it down to worn out guides and valves.
When I pick up the pushrod tomorrow, I'll ask what kind of guides he put in.
When I pick up the pushrod tomorrow, I'll ask what kind of guides he put in.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
Your lucky it didn't swallow a valve, head, block and piston as all could of been destroyed. To bite the machine shop if they do good work will make things harder next time you want machine work done unless you have a selection in town. If they pay half the bill they will remember you as a good return customer and treat you right in the future, never know when you'll need them again. Better to start out nice not pissed off with a head of steam stomping thru their door.
.....=o&o>.....
.....=o&o>.....
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
Likes: 4
From: Iowa
He is picking up the cost of fixing the valve guides. I get to pay for the pushrod, valve, and gaskets. We get along alright. I do his computer work, he does my machine work. I definately agree that you dont gain anything by being pissed off. I may have been more pissed off if it had destroyed the piston and block. Fortunately it didn't.
I just got done measuring a guide and a valve. So far for the ones I did:
Exhast:
Guide measures .3750"
Valve measures ..3711"
Intake:
Guide measures .3735"
Valve measures .3715"
A little loose this time around on the exhaust, but I'd rather have it a little too loose than too tight. If I ever hook a trailer up to this thing, I'll be glad I had the extra clearance. Plus, that was only one cylinder's worth of measurements. I'll measure all the guides and all the valves. That'll let me mix and match accordingly for the most consistant clearances.
I just got done measuring a guide and a valve. So far for the ones I did:
Exhast:
Guide measures .3750"
Valve measures ..3711"
Intake:
Guide measures .3735"
Valve measures .3715"
A little loose this time around on the exhaust, but I'd rather have it a little too loose than too tight. If I ever hook a trailer up to this thing, I'll be glad I had the extra clearance. Plus, that was only one cylinder's worth of measurements. I'll measure all the guides and all the valves. That'll let me mix and match accordingly for the most consistant clearances.
Last edited by rusty70f100; Apr 12, 2006 at 05:53 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
Next week you'll be at the machine shop splitting a 6 pac having a good laugh, glad this one worked out.
.....=o&o>.....
.....=o&o>.....
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Eureka, Ca.
I didn't mean to imply that you should have been all pissed off. But if I pay a Professional shop to do a valve job and the shop screws up the clearences why would I be happy to pick up the cost of destroyed parts in addition to the cost of the original work? Not to memtion all the work and hassle you have to go through to fix what should have never happened in the first place. To each his own. I guess I am lucky There are 6 or 7 shops around here and they know it. So if I have a problem I have options.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 709
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From: Mesquite, Texas
Kurt, Good luck on your trip and good luck with that engine. I hope its minimal damage
Putt, That firewood trick works at any age. My dad used to send me to the woodpile when I was a teenager to get rid of my attitude as he called it. I think he just wanted his wood split. He believed that idle hands were the devils work shop and I promise that guy never got close to me. lol Also he said it made me to tired to get in much trouble. Now he might have been right on that one as I was to tired to get in much trouble. That firewood splitting seems to work faster as I get older lol
Putt, That firewood trick works at any age. My dad used to send me to the woodpile when I was a teenager to get rid of my attitude as he called it. I think he just wanted his wood split. He believed that idle hands were the devils work shop and I promise that guy never got close to me. lol Also he said it made me to tired to get in much trouble. Now he might have been right on that one as I was to tired to get in much trouble. That firewood splitting seems to work faster as I get older lol
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 748
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From: North US Border, Canada
Overall this was a shame, I'm just glad you're getting it together now. Happy to see it was minimal damage compared to what it could have been. When do you figure you'll have it running again?
Madmike33
Madmike33
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,934
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From: iowa
First off, run the rpm intake.
Kurt, you know if you didn't have those forged pistons what would have happened? Most shops work on sbc engines, so thats what they go on.
When I checked my new valves in the guides i was not too happy as i thought they were somewhat loose for new parts. I guess thats not all bad.
I have been wondering since my last overhaul what is going to break first, the stock rod bolts or the stock pushrods.
FE pushrods seem to be as good as a #2 pencil!
Kurt, you know if you didn't have those forged pistons what would have happened? Most shops work on sbc engines, so thats what they go on.
When I checked my new valves in the guides i was not too happy as i thought they were somewhat loose for new parts. I guess thats not all bad.
I have been wondering since my last overhaul what is going to break first, the stock rod bolts or the stock pushrods.
FE pushrods seem to be as good as a #2 pencil!
Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
Likes: 4
From: Iowa
It will be done, when it is done.
If I didn't have those forged pistons, the results would have probably been far worse. And if I had to guess, I'd say your stock rod bolts will go first, assuming you dont get valve float.
If I didn't have those forged pistons, the results would have probably been far worse. And if I had to guess, I'd say your stock rod bolts will go first, assuming you dont get valve float.