Kaboom!!!
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 375
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From: East TN.
hey kurt if it makes you feel any better i got the top half of my motor put back together this weekend, got ready to fire it and noticed the valley pan sitting off to the side. oh how i love taking that friggin intake off! any way hope it all works out good for you.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
Likes: 4
From: Iowa
Problem found!
I took off the valve covers yesterday before I left for my trip. I found one bent pushrod. It was bent down by the lifter. The top cup part of it had a chip out of it. It's matching valve was stuck half open in the head. It's the #6 exhaust valve.
My current theory is that when the machine shop put in the new guides, they left them too tight to the new valves. Take it out to drive it, they heat up, and sieze. Yes, I took the new valves up there so they could match them. And yes, I cleaned everything off VERY good before I put it together.
So the plan today is to take pictures and pull the heads. Not sure how far I'll get, but at least it's close to 70F out, sunny, and no wind. If I get both the heads off I'll go up to the machine shop with 'em, probably tomorrow.
I hope the piston did not come into contact with the valve...
I may just go run the wood chipper. It's a PTO driven DR chipper mounted on a Kubota BX2230. That thing should release the agressions...
Of course, this "server is too busy at the moment" stuff really adds to the agression...
My current theory is that when the machine shop put in the new guides, they left them too tight to the new valves. Take it out to drive it, they heat up, and sieze. Yes, I took the new valves up there so they could match them. And yes, I cleaned everything off VERY good before I put it together.
So the plan today is to take pictures and pull the heads. Not sure how far I'll get, but at least it's close to 70F out, sunny, and no wind. If I get both the heads off I'll go up to the machine shop with 'em, probably tomorrow.
I hope the piston did not come into contact with the valve...
I may just go run the wood chipper. It's a PTO driven DR chipper mounted on a Kubota BX2230. That thing should release the agressions...
Of course, this "server is too busy at the moment" stuff really adds to the agression...
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,436
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From: Montana
I may just go run the wood chipper. It's a PTO driven DR chipper mounted on a Kubota BX2230. That thing should release the agressions...
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
Likes: 4
From: Iowa
Ok I took the heads off. The #6 exhaust valve has marks on it where the piston pushed it back up. The piston has some slight marks on it where it pushed the valve up. Nothing broken; nothing I'm going to worry about.
The heads are up at the machine shop right now, getting fixed, hopefully for free. He says he'll have 'em done tomorrow. Edit: I do like the wood chipper idea.
So now I need a new pushrod. I see that Summit wont send out the Comp #7533 pushrod until the 20th, anyone know where I could get it sooner?
Edit again: Never mind, it looks like Jegs will send one out immediately.
The heads are up at the machine shop right now, getting fixed, hopefully for free. He says he'll have 'em done tomorrow. Edit: I do like the wood chipper idea.
So now I need a new pushrod. I see that Summit wont send out the Comp #7533 pushrod until the 20th, anyone know where I could get it sooner?
Edit again: Never mind, it looks like Jegs will send one out immediately.
Last edited by rusty70f100; Apr 10, 2006 at 04:29 PM.
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Joined: Oct 2005
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At least it didn't come out the side!
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
Likes: 4
From: Iowa
Well, I just got back from the machine shop. They reamed out the guides to the correct clearances. The one valve that stuck, you could see where some material had transferred to the guide. It definately seized due to insufficient clearance.
Jegs has the pushrod backordered. Fortunately the guy at the machine shop can get one in a couple days, so I'm going that route.
Anyway, now I'm going down to Napa to get a new exhaust valve.
OBTW, I've got over $100 worth of gaskets ordered from Summit, if you include shipping. If anyone wants to know, I can list out which gaskets I got.
I'm working on the pictures.
Question:
What do you guys think? Should I put the Performer RPM back on, or port the Streetmaster 390 intake and put that on?
Jegs has the pushrod backordered. Fortunately the guy at the machine shop can get one in a couple days, so I'm going that route.
Anyway, now I'm going down to Napa to get a new exhaust valve.
OBTW, I've got over $100 worth of gaskets ordered from Summit, if you include shipping. If anyone wants to know, I can list out which gaskets I got.
I'm working on the pictures.
Question:
What do you guys think? Should I put the Performer RPM back on, or port the Streetmaster 390 intake and put that on?
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2005
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If you go by the "intake shootout" then it suggests the streetmaster may be better...and that's without the porting. However the RPM was almost as good...I doubt that most of us could tell the difference in everday driving...I'm sure I couldn't. Still, if you feel like going through the porting, it would be fun to see if you can tell any difference. I suppose you can be pretty certain that it can't be worse than the RPM. Flip a coin...LOL.
Tracy
Tracy
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,036
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From: NE Ga
So kurt how much of this do you think would be due to weak/old gas? I'm gonna fire off my 390 here in a couple of weeks and that gas has been in there since last thanksgiving. I'm really thinking about firing up my electric fuel pump and pumping it all out and adding new.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
Likes: 4
From: Iowa
None of it was due to old gas. The reason the failure occured was that the machine shop that put in the new guides left them too tight. He probably used smallblock chevy clearances. When the exhaust valve heated up, the stem expanded to the point where it welded itself to the guide due to insufficient clearance.
I took the valves out to the wire wheel to clean them off. I noticed one other one was on the verge of failure, with galling like the one that failed. So now I need two valves.
Edit: Before, I said that pieces of the valve transferred to the guide. That was backwards. There are little pieces of guide on the valve. I'll take pictures.
Re-edit: 73F100, it would not be a bad idea to drain that gas and refill. A new motor really deserves new gas. Plus, it'll increase the chance it'll fire right off when you first crank it over, which is what you want for proper cam break-in.
I took the valves out to the wire wheel to clean them off. I noticed one other one was on the verge of failure, with galling like the one that failed. So now I need two valves.
Edit: Before, I said that pieces of the valve transferred to the guide. That was backwards. There are little pieces of guide on the valve. I'll take pictures.
Re-edit: 73F100, it would not be a bad idea to drain that gas and refill. A new motor really deserves new gas. Plus, it'll increase the chance it'll fire right off when you first crank it over, which is what you want for proper cam break-in.
Last edited by rusty70f100; Apr 11, 2006 at 06:14 PM.
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: NE Ga
While I've gotcha kurt, I'm gonna run a holley reman 600. I don't have any idea where they set the floats from the factory and i have the screw in's, not the see through sights. With an electric fuel pump, is there an accurate way to set the floats to that when the motor fires i don't have to worry about it spittin and sputterin from either fludding or running lean? I'm already planning on gettin the sights but would like to know how to set the floats. Thanks!
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
Likes: 4
From: Iowa
Well, turn on the electric fuel pump until it fills the float bowls. The set the float so it barely dribbles out the sight plug hole (yes, you remove the plug to set the float and some will dribble out). Your floats are now set and you never cranked the motor.
Normally they're pretty close from the factory. It should be close enough that you wont have to worry about it during cam break-in.
Normally they're pretty close from the factory. It should be close enough that you wont have to worry about it during cam break-in.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: "Islander"
What material are the guides made of? Stems chromed and ground?
I have never seen stem material transfer to the guide as guides are softer as the stem will peel or gall off guide material. You must be running seals vs umbrellas which run guides too dry in my book.
I know you must be running solid rocker spacers, why go thru sucking valves because you gambled on spring spacers "feel lucky?"
.....=o&o>.....
I have never seen stem material transfer to the guide as guides are softer as the stem will peel or gall off guide material. You must be running seals vs umbrellas which run guides too dry in my book.
I know you must be running solid rocker spacers, why go thru sucking valves because you gambled on spring spacers "feel lucky?"
.....=o&o>.....
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Apr 11, 2006 at 07:49 PM.