Here is my newest project, it's set up for a bbc but I'll be converting it to a ford engine. Don't know if I want to go big block or not.

What I need is suggestions on what type of suspention I need (coil over, 3 or 4 link? etc.) because the front and rear are welded to the frame http://images.ford-trucks.com/forums...lies2/rotz.gif

How can I get a ford transfer case to work with the chevy side front diff. or would it be best to buy the power pro chain drive setup?

any ideas for redoing the ugly body (will be fiber glass or aluminum)?

Also, anyone know where to get a disk brake kit for this D44?


Will the D44 rear an D30 front hold up? or should I put my spare ford 9" an D44 front in it now?

I'm open to any ideas on what to do with this buggy.

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I would upgrade the diffs now, no point in installing suspension components just to swap housings later,

Have you looked at powerpro's 4 link kits? They seem reasonably priced for a kit that requires little fab work,
Another option may be installing a d44 out of a late 70's half ton with the coils, bucket, radius arms, & pan hard bar, already there,

That body looks like it is made of aluminum, if it is I would run it, it really don't look to bad,

 

that rear suspension is killer!

looks liek a good platform to start with

did the guy before have any problems with diff breakage? those things or so light they get away with lightweight diffs

maybe mild built 9" and a 44 front

 

The guy I bought it from never run it, he got it on trade some how. It had a 454 in it and the hood is cut for a blower, so I'm not sure if it had problems breaking or not.

Power Pros 4 link kit is what I was looking at, but I don't know much about them or these kind of buggies, I just no it won't be going to the track without suspention upgrades.



The body is made of very thin aluminum and is dented up pretty good, I am wanting to make a new body without the hood but with side panels covering the frame.

 

that would be so fun to play with... you wanna let me work on it for a while?

 

Damn, just looking at the suspension or lacktherof, makes my kidneys hurt! I vote four link it and use the chain drive.

 

For the rear I think its going to be easiest to run coilovers... you obviously cant run leaf packs... but standard coils are an option. Unless you want 4" of upwards travel you will need some lift, as im sure you know. but if you are pushing tons of HP you wont want that much upwards travel anyways... You could pretty much just run coilovers on the rear between the outside of the bod and the tires... I would also swap in those other axles... those tires are going to have sweet hook-up...

 

thats a good start to make a sick rail though... all the body work and basic layout is there, just give yourself a little bit of a softer ride and youll be all set. put your self some duece axles and some ags and youll be cooking with gas on that rig.

 

Actually one of the best working setups (in my area anyway as far as the rails are concerned, and we run more bogs then drags, so a bit harder on the components but you get the idea.) is a 4linked 9" rear and 44 front, with the 9 being converted to fullfloat and 35spline, and the front is generally beefed up as much as funds will allow, but usually discs in the front and rear. The tires are usually paddles in the rear and cut boggers in the front, usually skinnier tires, so you're pretty well set for that. Remember that you will need the added stability of the full width axles too, as i'm assuming those axle came from a jeep.

 

OK, so everyone agree 4-link front and rear is the way I need to go?

Pro, thats exactly why it wont see the track without upgrades, I think they actualy ran it like it is.

Raw, I plan on pushing around 5-600 hp when I'm all done with it, but that will be awhile from now.

Mustange, I still have the spare chromo axles for my F-150 d44 so I could use those to beef it up, and I don't know a whole lot about the 9".

You couldn't buy the rear tires for what I paid for the whole buggy.

 

Good deal

Yeah for that rear 9, do what monster has, find a nodular center chunk, upgrade to 35splines and spool, spool the front too, you're only under full power when going striaght .

 

i wouldnt bother withupgrading front axles...just throw a 44 in there....your front tires will hardly be on the ground

 

I haven't upgraded to 35 spline axles on the rear still running 31 spline just went to better than stock axles in the 9" and if you can find a nodular carrier so much better, or better yet do what I did this year and go with a strange nodular setup and full spool. I also went coilovers and still have the ladder bars which work good in mud drags, or sand drags but 4 link gives you more adjustability. What ever you do don't go with just plain coil springs that was causing me some problems last year the coilovers are so much nicer and the setup is lighter and cleaner when your done.
On the front just grab a D44 out of a F150, put a spool and gears of your choice in and your good to go, then what I would do on that is leave the radius arms on it take the spring buckets off and make a lower mount for coilovers to bolt onto the top of the radius arm and an upper mount on the frame and run coilovers up front too. Also I would build an adjustable panhard bar, you can buy them or do what I did and use a tractor top link. Your not going to have a problem with the D44 in the front your light enough, and going straight under power and with only 600hp shouldn't be a problem heck I am running NAPA brand ujoints in mine and finally after 3 yrs had to replace one of them and have factory axle shafts.
BTW you want full width axles not narrow axles because in mud drags and mud bogs if you run narrow axles your tires won't match up with the tracks left by the full size rigs so your going to be cutting new ruts with atleast one side all the time, and it's gonna want to bounce side to side all the time making it hard to control. We occasionally get a jeep or early bronco come and play and they just don't do well for that very reason. but if most of the guys are running jeeps and things and you want to stay with narrow axles just get a D44 and 9" out of an early bronco and do the same things I just suggested for the full size axles.

 

I was waiting for you to post .

I have a full size bronce that I'll be pulling the 9" out of and a 78 F-100?/150 for the front, I was thinking 3.55 or 3.73 rear and around 3.08 front because of it being so lite, the rear tires are 20x35(or so)x15 and the fronts are around 30x6x15 (may upgrade to grooved MT Claws). Sound about right? Most of the trucks here are small (s-10's, toyota's, bronco 2's, etc. with v-8's) but I'm still going full size.

I think once I sell my truck I'll have the money to fix this thing right, the price I have so far is around $1,350 for front/rear 4-link pced with adjustable coil overs in chrome(gotta have the bling ).

It's going to take awhile to get it done, we just built a new engine, gears, radiator, paint job, wheels, locker, etc. for the yota + poured a 35x25 slab of concret in the shop So money is tight untill my ford sales.

What do you mean by "nodular carrier"?

This rail is alot shorter then the others I've seen, think it will need a wheelie bar?

 

I would go with the 3.73 if your gonna go that high, the 3.55/3.08 with that tire combo is almost exactly the same ratio, but the 3.73 rear would make your front tires faster which is what you want. Another option I have a set (I think I still have them anyway) of 3.23 rev rotation gears for the D44 then run a 3.91 or 3.89 in the rear which would give you a little lower.
Nodular carrier refers to the type of iron used, it's high nodular content iron which is stronger although any case in a ford 9" is pretty strong but the nodulars are the strongest factory carrier, and are also called N cases because they have a large N cast on the front. But a strange S series carrier is only about $195 and even stronger yet.