1983 F150 No Start Problem
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 32
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From: West Lafayette, IN
1983 F150 No Start Problem
I am going to start off by telling you my problem in detail, then list the steps I have tried thus far.
Two nights ago the truck ran fine, no problems what so ever. The next morning I went to start it and it seemed like the battery was very drained. So drained it did not even engage the starter. All lights were dim.
So, I tested battery and quick charged it at AutoZone. They said it tested fine.....(not for sure how reliable they are). Put it back in truck, same problem. Although there seemed to be a faster clicking noise coming from Starter Solenoid. So I replaced the Solenoid. Same problem. Then I took out starter, and had it tested at Autozone. It came up good. I reinstalled it in my truck, and same problem.
I have not tried bypassing to solenoid yet.
Right now I think it still might be a defective battery, or possibly a Grounding Issue.
So, I need your help in trying to figure out where I might be grounding out, or not grounding out for that matter.
Also if you have any suggestions on cables/parts that might need to be replaced, let me know.
Thanks,
Rex Buchanan
Two nights ago the truck ran fine, no problems what so ever. The next morning I went to start it and it seemed like the battery was very drained. So drained it did not even engage the starter. All lights were dim.
So, I tested battery and quick charged it at AutoZone. They said it tested fine.....(not for sure how reliable they are). Put it back in truck, same problem. Although there seemed to be a faster clicking noise coming from Starter Solenoid. So I replaced the Solenoid. Same problem. Then I took out starter, and had it tested at Autozone. It came up good. I reinstalled it in my truck, and same problem.
I have not tried bypassing to solenoid yet.
Right now I think it still might be a defective battery, or possibly a Grounding Issue.
So, I need your help in trying to figure out where I might be grounding out, or not grounding out for that matter.
Also if you have any suggestions on cables/parts that might need to be replaced, let me know.
Thanks,
Rex Buchanan
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
Likes: 18
From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
You have four cables, eight connections to take care of. 1. Battery positive to solenoid. 2. solenoid to starter. 3. Battery negative to ground. 4. Engine to chassis ground.
Take them apart, clean all the contact surfaces and bolt them back with a little grease to prevent corrosion. If you find that any of the cables looks suspicious, replace it. If you see corrosion up inside the insulation, replace it.
Since you have replaced the solenoid, and the battery and starter tested good, I'm betting that this will take care of it.
Take them apart, clean all the contact surfaces and bolt them back with a little grease to prevent corrosion. If you find that any of the cables looks suspicious, replace it. If you see corrosion up inside the insulation, replace it.
Since you have replaced the solenoid, and the battery and starter tested good, I'm betting that this will take care of it.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 32
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From: West Lafayette, IN
Thanks for the fast reply.
I will check those four cables tomorrow morning. I do have one question though. I do not know where the engine to chassis ground cable is located.
I have a repair manual, so that should say, but I have not looked it up yet, or have not ever had to deal with it.
Another question, Will Autozone have these cables in stock in case I need to replace them?? I might go ahead and replace negative battery and positive battery cables as they show some signs of corrosion near the clamps.
I will check those four cables tomorrow morning. I do have one question though. I do not know where the engine to chassis ground cable is located.
I have a repair manual, so that should say, but I have not looked it up yet, or have not ever had to deal with it.
Another question, Will Autozone have these cables in stock in case I need to replace them?? I might go ahead and replace negative battery and positive battery cables as they show some signs of corrosion near the clamps.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
Likes: 18
From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
All the cables are not hard to find in parts stores.
I don't know about your particular truck, but an engine to chassis ground is sometimes attached to a starter bolt or right to the block, then to the frame rail. (Also there is sometimes a smaller one from the back of the head to the firewall. That one grounds the cab, and should be in place.) Make sure you have one as large as the hot to the starter. If you can't find one, improvise. Just get a cable with an eye on both ends. Go from the starter mounting bolt to any convenient bolt on the frame rail, or wherever the battery neg cable bolts down.
I don't know about your particular truck, but an engine to chassis ground is sometimes attached to a starter bolt or right to the block, then to the frame rail. (Also there is sometimes a smaller one from the back of the head to the firewall. That one grounds the cab, and should be in place.) Make sure you have one as large as the hot to the starter. If you can't find one, improvise. Just get a cable with an eye on both ends. Go from the starter mounting bolt to any convenient bolt on the frame rail, or wherever the battery neg cable bolts down.
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