Here is a common problem that us Ford owners have. When I go to start the truck, very frequently (more often than not) the starter engages but wont stop engaging even with the key out of the ignition. I have to jump out of the truck and either disconnect the battery or smack the solenoid with something.

My mechanic said try running a thick cable like a 4 or 6 gauge cable from the solenoid plate to the frame to try to ground it better.

I ran 2-4gauge wires from the solenoid to 2 different parts on the frame. that alone cost me 21 bucks just for the cable (got 10 ft)

Yesterday I went and had the battery and starter tested at advance auto where I work and the starter was fine but the battery came up needing replaced but luckily mine was still under warranty for another 3 months so I got a brand new battery for free (I didnt buy the original one, PO did)

Also bought a new Heavy Duty solenoid (no idea the difference in the regular, HD or the premium from advance auto. The one my mechanic put in was from carquest and Ive tried auto zone and napa ones before too (doesnt matter same solenoids from china or Indonesia or some country.)


My question: does anyone know a better way to fix the problem?

Ive burned up several starters because of this problem(start thats in there is about a yr old), replaced numerous solenoids, and spent countless hours tinkering with things and being frustrated with this problem. I need some help!!

 

i found 99% of the time starter solenoid hang up is caused by a bad battery.

 

I just put a brand new battery and solenoid in there, its not grounding right or something cause once I knock on it to get it to kick the starter off it will stop.

Someone told me to move the other wires that are connected to the positive side of the solenoid to the negative side. He said on his truck that he doesnt have all the wires like I do for some reason and he has the same generation and motor. he also siad since those wires are touching that positive wire, that sometimes it will do this problem because of that. He said putting those wires on the negative side of the solenoid wont hurt anything and everything will work just the same.

 

Are you talking about the large terminals on the solenoid or the small ones?

Either way you don't have a "Negetive" side of the solenoid, they are just a switch, power in, power out, when you turn the key it flips the switch and the power continues out to what ever is connected to the other side.

Moving the wires will result in what ever is connected to those wires only working then you turn the key to start.

Most solenoid stick on because they get dirty inside and hang up, there is an electric coil that slides a large copper washer and touches both large terminals together. when the key is released the coil looses power and a spring pushes the copper wash away from the terminals. the pin in the center gets gummed up and the washer cant move away. Adding extra ground wires will do nothing, that is why hitting it works to release it. A new solenoid should do the trick.

On edit, I see you tried a new solenoid and it still does it? Its possible something is back feeding it on the small wires. try unhooking them one at a time untill it doesn't do it.

Diesel Rod

 

To start with your mechanic does not know much about the electrical side. The Frame is not a good ground and is not grounded on a lot of Fords. The solenoid is grounded well enough or it would not come in in the first place. But make sure you have a good ground from the NEG post of the battery to the Body & the Engine block.

The reason a solenoid sticks is because you exceeded the current rating of the solenoid.
Excessive current through the contacts of the solenoid can be caused by:
1. A engine that is hard to turn.
2. Low voltage from the battery. (pointed out above)
3. Bad dragging starter.

 

when hooking the wires up tho the solenoid, starter cable goes to one of large terminals, usually the one towards the firewall. there is a small push on wire that goes to the small terminal. all other wires go to the other large terminal closest to the battery, including the battery positive cable. .
make sure you have a good ground between the battery and block, and a good connection between the block and body.

 

yes the large terminals and yeah Ive tried several brand new solenoids from every car parts store in my area, they're all junk. Ill try the one at a time thing but i wouldnt know when its actually working because this problem comes and goes, its not constant but usually happens at the worst possible times.

 

I beg to differ about my mechanic, hes been a mechanic for over 35 yrs and he specializes in electrical issues, Ill double check the ground from the negative side but that wire is only a yr old so its not like its an old dirty corroded wire. Engine isnt hard to turn, it has a brand new battery and the starter is only a yr old too and apparently its not grounding right otherwise it wouldnt be doing this

 

If your mechanic is that sharp on electrical issues why did he he say to run a ground wire from the start solenoid to the frame?
The frame is the worst place to run a ground wire too. The frame is insulated from the engine, transmission and rear end by rubber bushings and rubber mounts.

If you have a radio then you will have push on braided static ground straps from the body and bed to the frame.
The only time to ground the frame from the NEG battery post is if you pull a trailer and the trailer plug has its ground wire going to the frame.

But it sure will not help a starter solenoid from sticking.

He has only been a mechanic for over 35 yrs. I have been one for over 55 years specializing in electrical issues.

 

Come to think of it he told me to run it to the firewall since these old trucks loose their natural grounds over time. I ran it to the frame thinking that would be even better. Good for you being a mechanic for 55 yrs, no need to be an a$$ hole about it, just about everything you post on my threads make you seem like an a$$

 

and as a side note, everyone who Ive talked to about this said the fram would be just as good of a spot to ground to as anywhere would be. They have looked at it and said thats as good of a ground as it could be how I have it now, thats why Im asking for help because i dont know what else to do and Im tired of throwing more money at it and dealing with this problem.

 

Anybody that tells you a frame is a good place to ground something does not know what they are talking about.
If you do not think so about the frame being a ground ask out site expert on electrical Dave F, AKA Franklin2.
You can find him over on the Electrical forum:
Electrical Systems/Wiring - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

All I ever tried to do in your thread is help you but it is hard to get through to you.
Your the one who made the statement about running the ground wire that led to what I said about your mechanic. If you ask your mechanic about it I am sure he will tell you to move the ground.

 

as Bill said, the frame is the worst possible place to hook something up for a ground unless you have put a battery to ground cable on, because the frame is usually not grounded.
vehicle ground systems from battery to block, then block to body. the body is isolated from the frame by rubber grommets. so unless a separate battery to frame ground cable was installed most of the time you will have a problem getting a good ground from the frame..

 

Ford owner joey

First off Subford "Bill" has helped numerous folks here on the message board. He goes out of his way to answer questions that have been extremely helpful not only to myself but hundreds maybe thousands of other folks seeking advise. He is not an *** but a very credible person on this message board. Youll find you will get more with sugar than vinegar!!
Dont take this as an attack but a lesson in respect please.

BigLar

 

Ford owner joey


I'm afraid you won't last long around here unless to adjust your attitude...

Just saying....