I'll post some Modification links and info, as well as some General and Technical info that can be helpful...
Gauge Installation Walkthroughs
Keep Overhead console from dimming when headlights/parking lights are turned on
Wicked Wheel Installation (turbo off the truck)
Getting rid of the Clunk when putting truck in gear
(greasing the rear driveshaft slip joint)
If you do this, you will need a $20 tubing cutter. This makes cutting the tube a snap. You want to also cut the fuel inlet tube as it extends down into the tank.
The way I did it:
1. Jack the left rear axel up, put a 2 ton jack stand under it.
2. Remove the left rear tire. This makes getting to the hoses a lot
3. Put 2 jacks under the tank, front and year.
4. Remove the 3 screws securing the fill neck to the fender.
5. Loosen the hose clamps at the filler neck and vent tube.
6. Remove the filler neck.
7. Loosen and remove tank retention straps.
8. Slowly lower tank as evenly as possible
9. Unhook the two vapor vent lines (not clamped).
10. Lower the tank until it is on the ground being careful that the fuel
lines and sending unit cable are not damaged.
11. With a large strap wrench ( I modified mine by substituting a length
of fan belt) remove the large (6” in diameter) retaining nut holding the module containing the fuel pickup and the fuel gage sending unit.
12. Remove and tie this assembly out of the way in a safe place(I tied
mine to the drive shaft). Leave the lines hooked up.
13. Carefully slide the tank through the opening at the left rear wheel
if you have running boards.
14. Remove all diesel fuel by dipping with a dipper made from a milk
carton or bottle. Put into a clean fuel container.
15. With a ratcheting PVC Pipe cutter, reaching inside the tank cut the
vent tube within 1” of the top of the tank.
16. Reaching inside the tank, Cut off all but 1" from the vent line..
Remove the scraps.
17. Place the tank under the truck 6” to the left of where the tank
18. Install the fuel pickup and sending unit module. Tighten retaining
ring with strap wrench.
19. Place the jacks under the tank.
20. Carefully raise the tank, feeding the lines over the frame, watching
the fuel module lines for trouble.
21. At this time connect the vapor vent lines that plug into the tank,
front and rear. These have no clamps, just push fit.
22. Jack the tank all the way up in the rear.
23. Install the rear strap.
24. Move the front and move the tank around to suit your purpose make
sure both hoses are in position.
25. Jack up tank in front to the top and install front strap.
26. Install hoses to filler neck.
27. Install three small screws in the filler neck.
28. Remove jacks from tank.
29. Jack up the axel, install the tire and remove the Jack stand.
30. Fill the tank with the diesel you removed.
-Choctaw Bob on FTE
Harpoon Mod link
7.3L PSD "bible"
Replacing Superduty Ball Joints
Tightening the Parking Brake
post by SmokeyWren on TDS
The parking brake is an old-fashioned drum brake up inside the rear rotors. It's called a "drum-in-hat" rotor.
The only adjustment available is to adjust the drum brake shoes.
Look on the back side of the hub and you'll see a rubber plug. Remove that plug and look inside and you'll see the "star adjuster wheel". Turn that star adjuster until it's tight, then back off only until the wheel will rotate freely.
Shadetree mechanics can "get by" using a flat-blade screwdriver to turn the star adjuster. But it's fairly easy to do with a special brake adjusting tool - available for only a couple of bucks from almost any auto parts store.
Here are the words from the workshop manual:
Parking Brake Shoe and Lining Adjustment
• Raise and support the vehicle.
• Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
• Remove the brake adjusting hole cover from the backing plate.
• Turn the brake adjuster screw to expand the parking brake shoe and linings until they drag against the drum-in-hat rotor.
• Back off the brake adjuster screw until no drag is evident.
Amount of Fuel Burned when Idling
- at idle of 650-670 rpm, engine consumes about 1 1/3 (1.33) quarts per hour, or about 1/3 gallons per hour.
- at idle of 1200 rpm, engine consumes about 2 3/4 (2.75) quarts per hour, or a little over 2/3 gallons per hour.
info credited to WayneT at TDS
Technical Articles from Diesel Innovations