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5.4 Head Removal/Time-Cert Install

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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 12:53 AM
  #1  
1968stepside's Avatar
1968stepside
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From: Tucson, Arizona
5.4 Head Removal/Time-Cert Install

So, who has done this? I plan on removing both heads and installing time-certs for all 8 spark plugs. I've spent a lot of time researching and emailing the people at time-cert. I want to do this once, and be done with it. So, here's my questions...

I know I'll need to replace the head, intake manifold, header and valve cover gaskets. Are there any other gaskets I should get?

I am also planning on replacing the timing chains since I'm in there. According to my parts searching online, they are chains, right?

Is there anything else I should consider replacing while I have it apart?

Anyone have a good tech article on doing all of this work? I do have a haynes manual. I haven't looked through it yet though.

I want to keep the total repair price between $500 and $600.

I know there are many questions. Any help or direction would be great.

BTW, this is for my 99 F150 with the 5.4 engine.

Thanks!
 
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 02:18 PM
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70f100longbed
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You will need new head bolts. It's also a good idea to replace the chain guide and tensioner arm. Make sure you get all the coolant out of the head bolt holes too. don't forget to install the crank sensor tone wheel before you install the timing cover or you will be chasing down a no start. The torque spec for the head bolts is 30 ft-lbs in sequence then turn each bolt 90 degrees in sequence twice.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2006 | 07:12 PM
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1968stepside
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Sorry I didn't post up, but there were no replies up until now.

I have already received my time-sert kit #5553. That is the "over the fender repair" kit. Instead of pulling the entire top end apart, I am only going to repair what's broken. If anyone is interested, I'll post up some tips that I'm sure I'll discover along the way.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2006 | 03:31 AM
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1968stepside
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The insert is installed. I have to say it went much smoother than expected. I have not finished putting everything back together, so I can't say how it runs.

My biggest worry was getting all of the aluminum chips out of the hole and any that went into the cylinder. I spent about 30 minutes using my shop vac and a length of 3/8 rubber hose. I just kept running it down in there until I didn't see any chips on the hose or in the filter of the vac.

The laminated instruction card is nice, but the video they have online helped me see exactly what to do.

I didn't take many pics because there wasn't much to see. I was working on the #8 cylinder that's buried up against the firewall on the driver side.
 
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