Shock install
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 236
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Change the shocks on my 04Ex to Edelbrocks. Did bother with the air tools, it is an easy job with the old manual 1/2 inch socket set. It took longer to take off the front wheels and replace than to change the shock.
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 36
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It is fairly streight forward...but her are some tips:
On the front lower bolt, the larger end has a wing on it, which acts kind of like a locking device. So you want to turn the smaller one, or you will bend it.
If by chance, your shocks don't come with the bands whick keep them partially compressed...You can compress them part of the way and use heavy nylon string run through each end to do basically the same thing. Unfortunately, I did not learn of this trick until after I had muscled mine into place.
On the front lower bolt, the larger end has a wing on it, which acts kind of like a locking device. So you want to turn the smaller one, or you will bend it.
If by chance, your shocks don't come with the bands whick keep them partially compressed...You can compress them part of the way and use heavy nylon string run through each end to do basically the same thing. Unfortunately, I did not learn of this trick until after I had muscled mine into place.
Freshman User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Real easy install provided you use a few tricks here. About 1.5 hour install time. Get your X on a level street or garage florr to start with and first spray penetrating oil on the bolts on both ends for all four existing shocks.
Front shocks: Don’t jack up the X. Just turn the front wheels and work around and over as there’s plenty of room. Remove bottom bolt first and use ratchet on the smaller bolt head (I believe it’s a 19/32 socket) while using a large enough crescent wrench to hold the large nut. Don’t turn the large nut as it’s got a welded washer attached to it that is used to keep the nut from rotating. Then, simply remove the nut on the top of the shock and I believe we had to use a number 15 metric socket as no other socket seemed to fit it well. Gently push up the cowling just above the upper shock mount so you can easily wrestle out the shock. Here’s a key helpful tip I developed if your shocks did not come pre-compressed from the factory with plastic banding. Put a piece of 3 foot kite string on the ground and place one end of the shock on the string. Compress the shock all the way down toward the ground using your knee until it won’t compress anymore. Bring the string up and tie it off on the other end where your knee is and release your knee and the shock will now be compressed and held by the string. Connect the base of the shock to the bottom mount and tighten up the bolt and nut (again tighten the small bolt head and use a crescent on the large welded nut to keep it from rotating). Orient the upper shock hole so that aligns just below the upper bolt that sticks out toward you on the upper mount. Cut the kite string (or plastic banding if equipped) and as the shock slowly rises push it onto the upper bolt. Attach the nut and tighten up both the upper and lower nuts to the level (force) that you had when you removed them originally. Repeat the same procedure for the other front shock.
<O
Rear shocks: On level ground, block front tires, jack up entire rear, and place two heavy duty jack stands under the rear axle nearest the rear tires (I used jack stands that are rated at 4000 lb each) so that you have enough room to safely work under the X. Remove the two bolts holding the upper shock mount (I believe these are 3/8 inch socket sized). Put on glasses as some loose dirt will likely fall in your eyes otherwise. You’ll need a ratchet with at least 18 inches of extended length to reach these upper bolts and use a floor lamp to light up the locations to easily see them. Then ratchet off the bottom bolt and nut and remove the shock. Attach the top mounts bolts first to the tightness you originally encountered when removing them. If your purchased shocks did not come compressed with plastic banding, you’ll have to compress the shock manually to connect it to the lower mount assembly. Use muscle force (or use the string option mentioned above or even the floor jack) to compress the shock back up into the lower shock assembly and secure the shock with the original bolt. Tighten up the bottom bolt to the strength you originally encountered. Remove the jack stands and you’re done!
CUINAK
Front shocks: Don’t jack up the X. Just turn the front wheels and work around and over as there’s plenty of room. Remove bottom bolt first and use ratchet on the smaller bolt head (I believe it’s a 19/32 socket) while using a large enough crescent wrench to hold the large nut. Don’t turn the large nut as it’s got a welded washer attached to it that is used to keep the nut from rotating. Then, simply remove the nut on the top of the shock and I believe we had to use a number 15 metric socket as no other socket seemed to fit it well. Gently push up the cowling just above the upper shock mount so you can easily wrestle out the shock. Here’s a key helpful tip I developed if your shocks did not come pre-compressed from the factory with plastic banding. Put a piece of 3 foot kite string on the ground and place one end of the shock on the string. Compress the shock all the way down toward the ground using your knee until it won’t compress anymore. Bring the string up and tie it off on the other end where your knee is and release your knee and the shock will now be compressed and held by the string. Connect the base of the shock to the bottom mount and tighten up the bolt and nut (again tighten the small bolt head and use a crescent on the large welded nut to keep it from rotating). Orient the upper shock hole so that aligns just below the upper bolt that sticks out toward you on the upper mount. Cut the kite string (or plastic banding if equipped) and as the shock slowly rises push it onto the upper bolt. Attach the nut and tighten up both the upper and lower nuts to the level (force) that you had when you removed them originally. Repeat the same procedure for the other front shock.
<O
Rear shocks: On level ground, block front tires, jack up entire rear, and place two heavy duty jack stands under the rear axle nearest the rear tires (I used jack stands that are rated at 4000 lb each) so that you have enough room to safely work under the X. Remove the two bolts holding the upper shock mount (I believe these are 3/8 inch socket sized). Put on glasses as some loose dirt will likely fall in your eyes otherwise. You’ll need a ratchet with at least 18 inches of extended length to reach these upper bolts and use a floor lamp to light up the locations to easily see them. Then ratchet off the bottom bolt and nut and remove the shock. Attach the top mounts bolts first to the tightness you originally encountered when removing them. If your purchased shocks did not come compressed with plastic banding, you’ll have to compress the shock manually to connect it to the lower mount assembly. Use muscle force (or use the string option mentioned above or even the floor jack) to compress the shock back up into the lower shock assembly and secure the shock with the original bolt. Tighten up the bottom bolt to the strength you originally encountered. Remove the jack stands and you’re done!
CUINAK
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