Chain saw not cutting
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Richmond, KY
Originally Posted by Defective
I really don't intend to sound insulting...but...
This statement is 100% wrong.
The only thing the "rakers" do is control the depth each tooth can cut into the wood. The depth guages (rakers) have no edge to cut with. If your saw chain is "breaking" the wood, it's dull.
Irish
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,377
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From: Elkhart IN
the wonders of google quote "1. Raker (also known as the depth gauge or drag) - The raker determines the thickness of the chip. This should be 20 to 30/1000 of an inch depending on whether you are cutting hard wood or soft wood. A raker depth gauge is the best tool to use to get the proper height of the raker. These can be purchased from local chain saw dealers" end quote http://www.forestapps.com/tips/chaintoth/chain.htm
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 279
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From: Brighton, Colorado
A good saw shop or mower service center that sharpens chains will know what to do with the depth guides... on any chain. I have them knock about .010 off. Don't confuse the depth guage with the anti kick back links(rakers).
My old clunker 3400 Poulan pulls pencils out of the cut.
Very nice. It's all about the depth guage.
Too deep and your saw will bog.
Too shallow and you will be making saw dust and smoke the chain.
PS On oak or other finer grain woods you will want to keep the depth guage very shallow.
Peace
My old clunker 3400 Poulan pulls pencils out of the cut.
Very nice. It's all about the depth guage.
Too deep and your saw will bog.
Too shallow and you will be making saw dust and smoke the chain.
PS On oak or other finer grain woods you will want to keep the depth guage very shallow.
Peace
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 76
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From: Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by chrono4
according to what i can find, the rakers are the depth gauges, not anti kickback links
Tho Oregon makes a chain called Vanguard with a weird depth guage shape that's supposed to act as anti-kickback.
Pesonally, I buy my Super 70 in spools & it has bumper links. I like it because it's simple & does the job without doing anything fancy for sharpenning.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 104
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From: Richmond, KY
To my recolection and all of it dealing with John Deer saw's and like labled chains, there is no such tooth at all, flame all you want but when a saw "Kicks" your hands go forward no matter how hard you hold it. I upper handle which happens to be close to that hand guard is also known as a "Saw Brake." The chain, rakers and cutters comprise the componants, if they bind or hit something the chain can't cut the saw "Kicks" and you loose a little grip and hit that pesky hand guard. The saw stops cutting or dies and you have to reset the guard to start the saw again. Hmmmmmmm.
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 76
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From: Ontario, Canada
Not flaming here Irish...
There is, in fact, such a tooth. You'll note that "Super 70" in my last post is a link to a pdf file. take a look at it.
While you're at it, look up "kickback". The saw hitting something it can't cut does not cause kickback. Hitting the upper quadrant of the bar tip does. In a kickback situation, the chainbrake does very little as the saws motion generally straight back or slightly downward. Unless you have a very light grip on the saw your hand will rarely hit the brake.
The very best "anti-kickback" device made is freely provided to everyone who ever picks up a chainsaw. (tho some never use it...) This is simple common sense. Pay attention to where your bar tip is at all times.
There is, in fact, such a tooth. You'll note that "Super 70" in my last post is a link to a pdf file. take a look at it.
While you're at it, look up "kickback". The saw hitting something it can't cut does not cause kickback. Hitting the upper quadrant of the bar tip does. In a kickback situation, the chainbrake does very little as the saws motion generally straight back or slightly downward. Unless you have a very light grip on the saw your hand will rarely hit the brake.
The very best "anti-kickback" device made is freely provided to everyone who ever picks up a chainsaw. (tho some never use it...) This is simple common sense. Pay attention to where your bar tip is at all times.
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: Ontario, Canada
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
Likes: 3
From: Atlanta GA
re:raker
The reason it is called a raker, along with being a depth guage, is it rakes the wood breaking the wood fiber. Same as in a large cross cut saw. One of the saw chain sites use to have a demo about how the raker and top/side plate work together to lift the chip and clear it. If you search the patent office you might be able to find the information there. What is surprising is in many chains the raker tips back on its heel as it cuts/scores.
Rakers are designed with anti-kickback features. Though once a chain is sharpened enough times and/or the rakers taken down, the anti-kick performance ranges from 40-90% less.
Just try filing a raker flat instead of with the curve and watch what happens the next time you cut with it.
The reason it is called a raker, along with being a depth guage, is it rakes the wood breaking the wood fiber. Same as in a large cross cut saw. One of the saw chain sites use to have a demo about how the raker and top/side plate work together to lift the chip and clear it. If you search the patent office you might be able to find the information there. What is surprising is in many chains the raker tips back on its heel as it cuts/scores.
Rakers are designed with anti-kickback features. Though once a chain is sharpened enough times and/or the rakers taken down, the anti-kick performance ranges from 40-90% less.
Just try filing a raker flat instead of with the curve and watch what happens the next time you cut with it.
Last edited by rebocardo; Apr 1, 2006 at 08:56 AM.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
Likes: 18
From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
Likes: 18
From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
Here's a hot tip for maintaining the raker height. Get a diamond nail file!!! I have one and it measures .030" Use it to file the rakers down to the depth of the file. Thirty thou is on the edge of an aggressive cut. Do it every time you sharpen the cutter teeth and there is nothing to it.
But remember, the rakers secondary purpose is to clear the chips, so try to manitain the factory shape, rather than simply filing it down flat.
Also, the side of the cutting tooth has the job of slicing through the cross grain, so be sure you are getting that part sharp too. The top (as viewed from the top of the bar,) is the part that most people concentrate on, but that part is cutting paralell to the grain of the wood, so it is basically just lifting out the chip. So the side must be sharp, at least well below the height of the raker.
But remember, the rakers secondary purpose is to clear the chips, so try to manitain the factory shape, rather than simply filing it down flat.
Also, the side of the cutting tooth has the job of slicing through the cross grain, so be sure you are getting that part sharp too. The top (as viewed from the top of the bar,) is the part that most people concentrate on, but that part is cutting paralell to the grain of the wood, so it is basically just lifting out the chip. So the side must be sharp, at least well below the height of the raker.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 309
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From: Portland, Maine
you can file them almost all the way off if you have a saw thats got enough ***** to pull it........like a big STIHL none of these wimpy Homelites, Mcculoughs, or Poulins could ever keep up. but back on the ? it sounds like you might have hit something and dulled the chain or your clutch could be headed south
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 121
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If you file the rakers to much it will cause the saw to bite to much and I don’t care how big of a saw you have if they get to much bite the power is just going to slip the clutch. It will also be 100 times more likely to kickback if the tip is to contact something. They are on there for a reason don’t file them off and ruin a chain. They are not just a depth gauge they rake the wood chips away that’s why there called rakers. The guy that said file them of was probably talking about a safety chain that has a tab sticking up between the raker and the next cutting tooth it will not make it cut any better by cutting them off and the amount of heat from grinding them off will most likely weaken the chain links.
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