Hey all, I'm hoping I can find out if this is a fixable thing, or if I'm looking at a new (replacement)cab. I have a `69 F100, and the rain gutter has some pin hole leaks in it on top, which allows water to run inside the windshield header, then down into the pillars. I've got leaks in the seams at the top corners of the windshield, which in turn is creating rusty floorboards. I've managed to stop the rust on the floors, I hope, but haven't found anyone willing to tackle fixing the gutter without taking on the whole cab in a restoration. Not to mention that the lowest quote I've found for this so far has been around $13,000!

And that's just for the cab! Now, this truck has a lot of sentimental value to me, as my father bought it brand new three months after I was born. I want to keep it original as possible, aside from the engine/powertrain. However, I can't afford/justify that much money on this, as I have no intention of making it a trailer-queen. And then there is the bed, too, which has problems of it's own (been quoted $6000 on it!). Alot of the front end work/frame cleanup/mechanical I can do on my own, but the body panels I wont touch, as I know I don't have the skill (or the tools) to do it right.

Has anyone here fixed this themselves, or had it done somewhere? I don't want to replace the cab if at all possible, but another year in western Washington will force my hand, if I don't get this fixed by the end of next summer.

Quick fixes (silicone to stop the leak) have slowed things down, but I'm afraid it's already past the point of no return. I cannot see down into the pillars, but I can imagine just how much rust is in there. Also, I don't want a temporary fix anymore.

Whew, sorry for the long post, but I hope I can get some ideas here, as this seems to be the best place for these old Fords!

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 23-Dec-02 AT 09:39 AM (EST)]FS, Those "quotes" are off the scale. 13K should get you a "Frame Off" restoration. Swapping the cab is not a big deal and rust free cabs are plentiful for 69 F100's. Replacing the roof is also easy but more time consuming. Depends on how attached you are to the original cab. The bed is a bolt on install that is really easy. Here again beds are both plentiful and cheap. Do the sheet metal work yourself and have a good body shop paint it, then take it all home and reassemble it. With the cab and bed off, wire brush the frame and rub it down with kerosene and re assemble the truck. Replace the bits and pieces that need to be replaced and at the end of the day you will have an original restored truck you can be proud of. Go for it!
William in Atlanta

 

At the moment my living arrangements barely allow me to work on the 390 I have in the garage. I plan to remedy that this spring, but in the meantime I'm stuck. The engine is almost done and will be going in this spring, as I'm waiting on various parts and pieces to redo the front end of the truck. The fender apron on the pass. side is gone (from the battery) and also that area of the core-support that connects to apron. I already have a donor core-support, but needs blasting/painting. Other things that need attention are the wiring, frame, etc.

I'm also going to have a trans remanned for it, as 34 years have taken their toll on the one I have now (T18). Same goes with the rear axle. BTW, most of the this truck is original, aside from peripherals like the brakes, clutch, alternator/starter etc.

All in all it's been fun working on the engine, and I'm looking forward to doing all this work. Who knows, I might just end up doing a frame off; once I take the front end apart I might not want to stop there!

In the meantime I'm gathering parts and information; two things I can't seem to have enough of!

F.S.

"Ford Trucks; Eating Bow-ties for Breakfast"

`69 F100 390 4spd 300K+ miles and still rollin'!!

 

I'm in western Oregon, and my '72 has rust all around my gutter over the windshield and also in the seam around the cab. The leak has created rust inside the cab around the winshield, too. The truck is currently at a place called "RustBusters." They sand blasted virtually the entire truck and are wire-feed welding in zinc as replacement metal to prevent it from rusting around the cab again. They are also doing the bottoms of my doors, the seam along the bed, and some other misc. bed work. This is costing me and arm and an leg (around $5000), and this does not include paint.

I figure that if I hold onto the truck for several years (as I intend to do--it's my daily driver), the money spend will be worth it in the long run and I won't end up losing anything. I think of how much I lost in depreciation on my '99 Tacoma in the couple of years that I drove it before I replaced it with my Ranger, and the $5,000 (+ paint) isn't that bad for something that is really very special and virtually irreplaceable. For you, that truck is irreplaceable. I still think about my dad's '65 Mustang that he was given as a wedding gift...I was born a few months later(!!!) and virtually grew up in that car. I would give a lot of $$$ to find it and have it for my own as it holds many special memories for me.

Anyway, you should find out if RustBusters are in your area and get an estimate. I am pleased with what's been/being done with my truck (although I would like to have spend less money!!!). Or, you can haul it down to Oregon to our place--it's just a little south of Portland.

Good luck with whatever you decide!

 

I also live in Western Washington, and I'm a do-it-yourselfer!
This is how I handled the rust in my '69 drip rail:

1. Strip out all the old material out of the raingutter.
You might have luck with an electric drill fitted with a wire brush wheel - or go at it with a mallet and an old chisel first, then the wire brush - but get it all out and clean as possible.

2. Then use masking tape to mask off the area to be sealed.

3. Buy some fiberglass matting material, thinner the better, and cut it into strips (about 1 - 2 inches wide) which will be used to line the damaged gutter, covering the holes. But instead of using fiberglass resin, I used "automotive Goop" which can be bought at walmart or anywhere.

4. With your finger lay in a thick smooth layer of 'Goop" into the gutter to be sealed. The masking tape keeps it confined to your desired area. Then clean hands. Then apply the matting strips into the still wet goop, carefully, keeping it neat and pushing it flat well into the goop. (If you use fiberglass cloth you will get spiderwebbing coming off in your hands. You could probably use fiberglass screening or thin repair mat instead). Clean hands again. Finally after it starts to set up, which wont take long, smooth on another layer of goop over the whole repair job. Strip off the masking tape and touch up to make it as neat as possible. After a day or two, spray it with primer and paint as desired!

If done with care, this job will not look too bad and will seal up the drip rail completely. After a year, inspect it to see if it is sealed up and not seperating anywhere, if it does show a gap or two, just rub a little more goop into it. The goop seals excellent, stays pliable, but must be painted to protect against UV.

 

FS - Hey I feel your pain. My cab also had rust there, and it was mostly hidden until body/paint project was well underway. My shop took out drip rail completely, cut out all rusted area (Primarily approx 2"x 18" on passenger side) and welded the top to bottom. This is "shaving" the drip rails, a common customizing thing. I estimate they spent about 15 to 20 hours (at 40 per) on drip rail, but this is a minor percentage of the total hours invested. So in less your are prepared to do a total "jump off the cliff" resto on this truck
(which Williams estimate is low for WI, here 13K would get you a strip it down, primer it and repaint it, no rust repair no seams or holes filled, no custom interior, new suspension or brakes), and trust me if you can see some rust anywhere, there is probably a whole lot more you can't see that will show up up when they start blasting/stripping paint. I'd reccomend you find another truck to put your motor in, you don't say where you live but through the internet, auto trader, etc. you should be able to get a good truck (maybe w/o engine) for a lot less, and then depending on your plans you can do body work over a period of time. Whew-speaking of long posts! Anyway have fun with your engine, no matter what you put it in.

 

$5,000 is a far cry from $13,000. Although I can't afford that right now, it's much more feasible to accomplish later on, and in a shorter time frame as well.

Never heard of RustBusters, however I HAVE heard of a place that dunks the entire shell of a vehicle in a vat. Supposedly the chemical dunk removes all paint, rust, seam sealer, everything. I haven't checked into it further, but I do have a business card somewhere with contact info, and I seem to remember the outfit being from Portland. (Met the guy at the Monroe Swap last spring)

At any rate, thanks for the info. It's definately an alternative to whats around here, and it's only 4 hours away. (5 if you drive slow)

Oh yeah, Happy Holidays!

F.S.

"Ford Trucks; Eating Bow-ties for Breakfast"

`69 F100 390 4spd 300K+ miles and still rollin'!!

 

>I also live in Western Washington, and I'm a
>do-it-yourselfer!
>This is how I handled the rust in my '69 drip rail:
>
>1. Strip out all the old material out of the raingutter.
>You might have luck with an electric drill fitted with a
>wire brush wheel - or go at it with a mallet and an old
>chisel first, then the wire brush - but get it all out and
>clean as possible.
>
>2. Then use masking tape to mask off the area to be sealed.
>
>3. Buy some fiberglass matting material, thinner the better,
>and cut it into strips (about 1 - 2 inches wide) which will
>be used to line the damaged gutter, covering the holes. But
>instead of using fiberglass resin, I used "automotive Goop"
>which can be bought at walmart or anywhere.
>
>4. With your finger lay in a thick smooth layer of 'Goop"
>into the gutter to be sealed. The masking tape keeps it
>confined to your desired area. Then clean hands. Then apply
>the matting strips into the still wet goop, carefully,
>keeping it neat and pushing it flat well into the goop. (If
>you use fiberglass cloth you will get spiderwebbing coming
>off in your hands. You could probably use fiberglass
>screening or thin repair mat instead). Clean hands again.
>Finally after it starts to set up, which wont take long,
>smooth on another layer of goop over the whole repair job.
>Strip off the masking tape and touch up to make it as neat
>as possible. After a day or two, spray it with primer and
>paint as desired!
>
>If done with care, this job will not look too bad and will
>seal up the drip rail completely. After a year, inspect it
>to see if it is sealed up and not seperating anywhere, if it
>does show a gap or two, just rub a little more goop into it.
>The goop seals excellent, stays pliable, but must be painted
>to protect against UV.

Not a bad idea, but it's less permanent than I desire. I'm hoping to have a "new" truck when I get done, something I don't have to mess with again for a long time. (aside from standard maintainance items like brakes/oil etc.)

I've got Eastwoods' Rust Encapsulator on the floorboards now, and it seems to be holding up much better than the rust-oleum ever did. First time I've used the stuff, but I'll swear by it from now on. We'll see how well it held up next spring when I tear into the truck for the major work!

It just might work on the rest of the internal panels as well as hidden areas, too.

Thanks again for the idea, and Happy Holidays, to you and everyone else as well!

F.S.

"Ford Trucks; Eating Bow-ties for Breakfast"

`69 F100 390 4spd 300K+ miles and still rollin'!!

 

>FS - Hey I feel your pain. My cab also had rust there, and
>it was mostly hidden until body/paint project was well
>underway. My shop took out drip rail completely, cut out all
>rusted area (Primarily approx 2"x 18" on passenger side)
>and welded the top to bottom. This is "shaving" the drip
>rails, a common customizing thing. I estimate they spent
>about 15 to 20 hours (at 40 per) on drip rail, but this is
>a minor percentage of the total hours invested. So in less
>your are prepared to do a total "jump off the cliff" resto
>on this truck
>(which Williams estimate is low for WI, here 13K would get
>you a strip it down, primer it and repaint it, no rust
>repair no seams or holes filled, no custom interior, new
>suspension or brakes), and trust me if you can see some rust
>anywhere, there is probably a whole lot more you can't see
>that will show up up when they start blasting/stripping
>paint. I'd reccomend you find another truck to put your
>motor in, you don't say where you live but through the
>internet, auto trader, etc. you should be able to get a good
>truck (maybe w/o engine) for a lot less, and then depending
>on your plans you can do body work over a period of time.
>Whew-speaking of long posts! Anyway have fun with your
>engine, no matter what you put it in.

This is one of the reasons why I am hesitant to redo the front end of the truck. If I do so now, while I do the engine transplant, I'll just have to tear it all off again when I go for the cab (which I will do eventually). Not to sure I want to do that.

As for having another truck around to drive, I've thought of that too, but that would have to wait till after I relocate myself. Parking is at a premium here, and my landlord has two vehicles he never drives, but refuses to get rid of. I could see it if they were something worth hanging on to, but one is an Aerostar van that's a piece of crap, and the other is an S-10 that he bought as a fishing rig 5 years ago. Note: he's never gone fishing in the 5 years I've lived here, and he's amassed a grand total of 175 miles on the truck since he bought it. Both haven't been started or driven in over six months, and he wont sell me the truck (I offered him $1500 more than the dealership offered him as a trade in when he bought his Escort) As I said in another post, my landlord is another story!

All in all, I think I'm going to work on the powertrain for now, and worry about fixing the body later. As long as it holds up till next summer, I'll be ok, and the electrical works good enough that I'm legal going down the road.

Want to again thank you, and everyone else for the input. Lots of good ideas, and info here!


F.S.

"Ford Trucks; Eating Bow-ties for Breakfast"

`69 F100 390 4spd 300K+ miles and still rollin'!!

 

Here is their wedsite:

http://www.rustbusters.com

Rodney Rose 1-800-600-3203. If you end up calling him at some point, tell him that Kim with the old two-tone green Ford truck recommended him! :-)

Good luck with whatever you decide!

Regards,

Kim

 

Anybody ever use "Rust Busters"? I have never heard of Spray Welding before. I have always heard that it is better to cut out and weld new metal in. It looks like a less espensive and quicker method to repairing a car with rust and the fact that it is metal, not bondo looks even better. My only concern is that there will still always be rust on the other side that they don't hit.. and it would only be a matter of time until it resurfaces. My truck (Obviously by the pictures) needs a little bit of cosmetic work. I also have an older Caddy convertible that has rust pretty bad underneath (but looks good from the outside??) that could use floorboard/trunk work in a few years.

I guess my real question is: Is rust busters a quick fix? Or is it a new and improved method??

James Kern
1970 F250 4x4

 

I'd go with the fiberglass idea or create a "bog" made from resin and either fiberglass fibres or asbestos (if you can get it) It's really strong and just make sure you wear a respirator if grinding. I'd keep the truck. My F-250 68 was owned by my wife's grandpa and he gave it to us. I've replaced a lot of the truck but he still enjoys sitting watching the work with a beer in his hand--he's 96 and still does my welding.. Keep it and fix it--it's irreplacable