Front brakes 2002 Ranger
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
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Thanks for suggestions
Thanks, everyone, for your suggestions. I am in Michigan and it is finally warming up, so I'll be hitting the brakes (no pun intended) this Friday. Thanks to '03 Maz B23' and drb1956 for suggestions on greasing the caliper pins. Maybe I should try that first before disassembling everything. (although symptoms are typical of rotors that need to be turned...definite pulsing). Also, thanks to Bob Ayers for confirmation of opening the bleeder valves before compressing the pistons ... I finally purchased the Haynes repair manual and was surprised (unless I missed it) that they make NO mention of this. JCS30th, I'm with you ... I haven't had to remove and repack a wheel bearing since my 1970 Fairlane that I had in high school!
Last question, before I pull the dust wheel and dust cap, does anyone happen to know what size socket I will need to remove the nut on the spindle holding the rotor on? Again, it is not mentioned in the repair manual, and once I have my truck up on jacks, I REALLY don't want to have to put the wheel BACK on to go to the hardware store....
Last question, before I pull the dust wheel and dust cap, does anyone happen to know what size socket I will need to remove the nut on the spindle holding the rotor on? Again, it is not mentioned in the repair manual, and once I have my truck up on jacks, I REALLY don't want to have to put the wheel BACK on to go to the hardware store....
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Thanks for suggestions
Thanks, everyone, for your suggestions. I am in Michigan and it is finally warming up, so I'll be hitting the brakes (no pun intended) this Friday. Thanks to '03 Maz B23' and drb1956 for suggestions on greasing the caliper pins. Maybe I should try that first before disassembling everything. (although symptoms are typical of rotors that need to be turned...definite pulsing). Also, thanks to Bob Ayers for confirmation of opening the bleeder valves before compressing the pistons ... I finally purchased the Haynes repair manual and was surprised (unless I missed it) that they make NO mention of this. JCS30th, I'm with you ... I haven't had to remove and repack a wheel bearing since my 1970 Fairlane that I had in high school!
Last question, before I pull the wheel and dust cap, does anyone happen to know what size socket I will need to remove the nut on the spindle holding the rotor on? Again, it is not mentioned in the repair manual, and once I have my truck up on jacks, I REALLY don't want to have to put the wheel BACK on to go to the hardware store!
Last question, before I pull the wheel and dust cap, does anyone happen to know what size socket I will need to remove the nut on the spindle holding the rotor on? Again, it is not mentioned in the repair manual, and once I have my truck up on jacks, I REALLY don't want to have to put the wheel BACK on to go to the hardware store!
Last edited by hancockr; Mar 27, 2006 at 07:08 AM. Reason: extra word!
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 74
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From: SoCal
Finally warming up in Michigan?Here in 'Ol SoCal,I been Freezin too! But I gotta get my butt back to da U.P. if ya know what I mean?Yeah I kind "feel" my rotors all the time(nuthin personal) just to make sure they ain't gettin "gouged"!Thanks there fellers,I be gettin er done soon hopefully!See ya in Michigan as soon as it warms up permenantly!My cousins in Midland wanna take me out to Dinner.Can't turn down a free meal,ANYWHERE! Gotta wait fer dat ten feet a snow in da U.P. ,to melt!
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
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1 1/16 inch is the size to remove bolt holding rotor to the spindle. Before doing a rotor replacement please check those caliper pins first. I made the assumption my rotors were warped (again) but feel certain it was the seized caliper pin causing the shudder I was feeling. If the pins are not seized and you do replace rotors/ pads check out NAPA. I bought lifetime pads and rotors. The rotors came with new bearing races installed and the sensor ring for the ABS. The only thing I had to purchase separately were the bearings, grease seals and grease.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
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Thanks for everyone’s help -- brakes done last weekend. Rotors still had plenty left so was able to have them turned. Used Wagner semi-metallic pads. Caliper pins were still well lubed and not seized. Most time consuming part was cleaning/repacking the wheel bearings. Since I haven’t done it in over 20 years, I was a little hesitant, but all seems well. Oh, that and removing the caliper bolts that hold the caliper frame to the spindle. Geez, it would have been nice if the Ford dealer that replaced my rotors 18,000 miles ago had REPLACED those bolts that they had rounded off the points on!! I only had a 12-point 15mm socket, and since the torque rating on those bolts is 85 ft-lb, it slipped twice before I got wise and walked down to the local hardware to buy a 6-point 15mm socket. 1-1/16 socket also worked well for the nuts on the spindle. A little sloppy, but as you are only putting less than 20 lbs torque on them, no risk of damaging them. At any rate, even buying the new sockets I needed and a repair manual I figure I saved at least $125.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 74
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From: SoCal
Hancokr,Im sure am glad to be able to follow you thru your Brake job!I'm almost ready to have mine done.However,How can someone be sure the care you took on your Truck ,can be done by a total stranger?I wish I could do my own,but being Handicapped and "way" out in da Boonies,it would take a week!Thanks though for the details ,especially Caliper pin replacement ,etc.! I'm gonna have to watch the Mech.,with Binoc.'s! From the comfort of my dealers "Super" Customer Lounge!I only hope I get a GOOD ,HOnest,Mechanic that treats my Truck like his own!My Bro. in law was injured on job at local Ford Dealership,He Does normally Front ends only,But it seems ALL the Ford dealers in this County have heard about his case (Torn Rotator cuffs,and "BLACKBALLED" him!He can't get a Ford Dealer hire! Otherwise HE would do mine!We live 50 miles apart,so we'll see?
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
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Good luck with yours...hope it goes well. I have to admit, it sure is nice to still be able to do a few things on your own vehicle. Nowadays with all the electronics and emissions components, not to mention clutter in the engine compartment, it can be downright difficult and time consuming. Not long ago I owned a Merkur Scorpio and needed to change the valve cover gaskets. Took 4 hours. On my 67 Mustang, that would have been a 10 minute job!
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: SoCal
Yeah,these "New" vehicles are a lot "different" than my first car:1957 Ford Fairlane 2door Hardtop!Hey,wasn't that it on the "Barrett Jackson" car Auction show? I paid $150 for it.Never had to do anything as I recall?Course now that I got A "built-in" Morphine pump,my memory is a little "Fuzzy",not to mention those fifty thousand Beers! 
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