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I have disassemblied the 352 in my '65 F100. I hope to complete a fairly low budget rebuild and want to try to avoid major machine shop costs. I think the motor is fairly low mileage. The cylinders/pistons look in good shape and the pistons removed easily. I have pressure washed the disassemblied heads, block, crank, etc. and used brushes to clean the oiling shafts. I have ordered a standard rebuild kit and am looking forward to putting the motor back together. Is there an archived article which I can refer to to help me? I need general items such as crank, rod, head torque specs. Plus I am unsure about how to install the rear main seal/cap. Any good reference guide I should buy?
Is it OK to simply use the 3 fingered type home honing tool and re-ring the original pistons? I also plan to polish the crank and then install with new standard bearings. In addition I hope to install new rod bearings without the cost of resizing the rods and purchasing new rod bolts. Any advice?
amazon.com Steve Christ's How to Rebuild big block fords $12.00 arrives in 3-4 days if your in a hurry.. very good reading.. (written by a mechanic) that is a major plus.. if you just need specific info I would be happy to fax the pages. I've even thought about scanning it so I have a file on my computer in pdf..timely though.
Great buy!!! I got it prior to tearing into my motor, read it once.. Plan on going over each section of the rebuild 2-3 times before actually attempting the work.. CRS syndrome you know LOL
After the block is built and your friends ask ya, what's all these extra parts for? A friend years ago rebuilt his 360, forgot to install the oil pump and this was after the motor was put back in the truck and cherry picker returned.
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Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Mar 22, 2006 at 06:09 PM.
The oil pump post reminds me of a statement a friend of mine showed me in the owners manual of an older Mercedes. The statement is "Mistakes which are avoided can have no unpleasant results". On this motor rebuild project I think I am just going to do a home honing of the cylinders. Thinking I was getting rings which sealed easier I ordered moly rings; prior to installing the rings I have been told moly rings require a much truer bore so in my application the standard rings would be best. If this is true I may have avoided a mistake...
Cast rings will seal alot faster but then they don't live as long as moly coated rings. I'm at 254K with moly rings ran a bore scope inside, cylinder bore looks like a mirror she'll run 150K more. Motor before ran 473K with valve jobs, oil and water pumps only, this was a moly ringed motor also.
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i like the bead style hones versus the 3 finger hones.. they're easier to use if you have no exerience running a hone, remember you want a good even cross-hatch pattern on the cylnders to aid in proper ring seating. JMO
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