How much of this do i need to buy to do a decent job on a 1993 F-150 ? Will the 36 square ft. bulk pack do two doors and the rear pillars also.Thanks.

 

i usually do one to two layers and i use more that you would think. i would recommend just getting started and seeing how far it will go. dont forget your back wall on your truck, as this is where i get most of my noise

Matt

 

Thanks- Fordboy 52. Did'nt think about the rear wall. May end up buying more. Hope 36 ft bulk pk will cover outer and inner skin.Anyone else care to elaborate or share their experience with dynamat. thanks

 

why are you using dynamat in the first place???

Second skin is better, and a ton cheaper, and raammat bxt is the best value

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/conclusion/

Read the whole thing if you want
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
~Nate

 

Nathan- this is why i started this thread, to gain knowlege from your experience. Good read in the links you provided. thank you.

 

Nice link.

 

After I found that link I switched from Dynamat Extreme to Damplifier Pro. It's good stuff. Dynamat is good too, but so much pricier, that it just isn't worth it.

Having used both, I think the Damplifier Pro is a definite equal to the Dynamat. I will say stay away from eDead. I've used that too, and I won't ever waste money on that again (IMO).

Cascade stuff works unbelievably well too, but it's price range is up with the Dynamat. The difference is Cascade is a completely different substance, working as a vibration absorber instead of a reflector.

 

I'm making my own, gonna see if I can do one or two doors tomorrow, in between putzing around at the shop.

 

making your own? Clue me in.

Ryan

 

Sorry about the kinda snobby post... long day... Srry about that


Anyways, I'm kinda wishing he would have tested that metal repair tape that they sell at farm&fleet, $4 for a 4"x6' roll. Really sticky stuff too
He didnt test duct tape either
Or electrical tape


Anyways dynamat's way over priced, your paying for the name, and its not the best quality
Good luck
~Nate

 

I'll be using this foam and some type of sealant/caulk; it's a closed cell carpet underpad I got at Home Depot. foam

I bought a tube of Mono acoustiseal to test out, it's really gooey and stays that way, I think it may stiffen up a bit, over time, but my concern is it will release when it gets hot. I'm going to see what happens to some foam glued to a piece of metal, in the oven tomorrow. I may just end up using silicone, I know silicone will harden up and a good quality one won't peel off. silicone should have enough elastomeric, vibration damping properties to make it worth it, along with the diamond texture foam, it should be a good sound deadener. Not to mention with that roll of foam, I should have enough to do both, interior surface of the outer skin and interior surface of inner skin. I figure less than $1.00 per sq ft, averaged out over both layers, won't be using as much sealant on layer between door panel and inside door skin... more of a damper for door panel vibrations.

 

Interesting, sounds like a good idea. Do you have an SPL meter to measure before and after dB readings? I am sure it is going to reduce some noise if you putting that much on, make sure you still have clearances for the windows.

 

I bought enough siliocne for one door cause I didn't want to have a bunch to return if it didn't work; so I did one of the rear doors today then had to run out to drop a truck off and pick up another, on the way back I stopped at Home Depot to have a look at what they had for sealants. I found this other stuff called Dynaflex - elastomeric sealant, read the label and it had all the properties I was looking for. Got back to the truck after about an hour and the silicone was setting up nicely, not peeling off or anything and very solid. I put an extra 1 sq ft layer directly behind the speaker and it is solid as well. Anyway, I did two more doors with the Dynaflex.

So far, with the three doors completed, I have noticed that the bass and overall sound is cleaner, tighter and not as 'ringy'. Definitely less vibrations in the doors. All the trim in the truck is plastic that is 'popped' on; no screws, so that will be next, putting foam behind the trim to get rid of the last vibrations. My sub boxes are wedged in behind the rear seats so there's probably room for some sound deadening back behind the boxes too, I'll see how ambitious I am this weekend...

Using about 2 pounds of sealant per rear door and about 2.5 pounds on the front that I got finished, for a total of about 9 pounds. An equivalent weight of Dynamat Extreme would be the Trunk kit at 20 sq ft x 0.45 pounds per, which is US $170.00 plus shipping (Dynamat.com). The sealant to do the doors cost me about CAD $50.00 and the foam cost CAD $40.00 for 54 sq ft. A little more than my estimate but well worth it, I think. Not to mention the added benefit of two good layers of acoustical damping, closed cell, polyethelene foam on each door. I forgot my camera today but I'll try to remember it when I do the last door and take some pics.

 

Well, I got ambitious today; I was so impressed with the results from the 3 doors that I decided to do everything. I pulled the headliner, rear seats, and back panel and lifted the carpet to where the front seat brackets are. I picked up some open cell foam for the headliner area and the first layer behind the rear seats. Some of the headliner area has 2 layers, where it would fit, rear panel has 2 layers and floor has one layer of closed cell foam. I think I used about 19 tubes of caulk, just today.

definitely a big difference in road noise, and music. I knocked on the roof and back panel when they were bare and they both sounded like a kettle drum, now it sounds like a kettle drum stuffed with pillows.

Here are Pics

 

When you guys say inner and outer door skins, do you mean the metal door and the back of the plastic door panel?