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Unless my pre pump filter is releasing it, I should not have any air issues. I've pretty much done every fuel mod there is....Still, I do fuly expect to notice something....just not sure what yet.
Kinda hoping for a little better power and economy. Thiking maybe the little pump will make it easier for the big pump to jam the injectors a little fuller.
Is fuller a word? Maybe "more completely fill the injectors" is a better choice.
Ohhhh....cookie you're leaning on the edge of big oil type talk there. Full injectors would work a lot better with something that can completely empty them.
There's a couple of reasons. First, if you plan on bigger injectors, but don't want to lay out the money for a pump an injectors at the same time, the pump is the logical first step. Then, you know you've got plenty of oil pressure when you do upgrade injectors. Second, a bigger/dual HPOP has proven to increase power across the whole RMP range with stock injectors. The power curve no longer falls off at the top end of the RPMs. The increase in pressure is better able to use all of the fuel in the injectors, as well as increase the atomization of the fuel for better burn. You should also see some lower EGTs. Reprogramming of the chip is a good thing to do too.
I ordered a Carter pro series 72GPH @ 6psi pump last week. Should be here thursday. Been burning up stock pumps at the rate of 1 every 18 months since I put the big primary on.
Hmmmm. Something is afoot here with this whole additional filter thing, but I can't quite put my finger on it. I suspect that the fuel pump might be starving itself or working too hard. I am almost convinced that I'm going to sump my tank now. I can't stand the idea of lifting fuel out of the tank and then trying to suck it through a filter before it reaches my primary pump.
I ordered a Carter pro series 72GPH @ 6psi pump last week. Should be here thursday. Been burning up stock pumps at the rate of 1 every 18 months since I put the big primary on.
Is that going in before the big filter?
I didn't like the sound that my pump was making on cold mornings so I relocated my pump back to the top of the fuel tank. It sorta helped but didn't cure the cavitation sounds that my pump makes on the Bio-diesel.
If using a Dahl or Raycor of a similar design, with a depressurizer cone, the use of a "feed pump" may not be the best idea.
Water and particulate separation is enhanced by the fuel flowing thorugh a "depressurizer cone". A quote from Dahl site:
"As fuel is discharged from the depressurizer cone, 80% of contaminant separation takes place. Most of the solid particles and water settle into the quiet zone of the bowl."
I suspect that the precipitation of water from the fuel is somewhat dependant on the lowering of the pressure of the fuel while passing through.
Will pressurizing a filter of that design defeat the ability to draw the water out of the fuel by defeating depressurization?
Of course, this all applies only to those kinds of filters, and is not a consideration with standard-media types.
Pop
Last edited by SpringerPop; Mar 22, 2006 at 10:45 AM.
Will these aftermarket fuel filters such as the Dahl cause any problems with the stock fuel pump? It seems some people are concerned about this or are they worried when they add the new injectors and other mods they won't be able to deliver the fuel?
If I were going to "big oil", I would be using a more robust fuel pump and using a properly-sized Dahl to handle the additional flow requirements.
These units are of a design that's been proven over many, many years in OTR and marine diesel environments. They do the job they were designed to do. Larger flow requirements simply means using a larger, properly-sized unit.
Using a two-micron element (or any size, for that matter) would sure have prevented the problem that caused Kwik to replace his pump.
Pop
Last edited by SpringerPop; Mar 22, 2006 at 10:09 AM.
If I were going to "big oil", I would be ... using a properly-sized Dahl to handle the additional flow requirements.
That's the exact reason that I went with the Dahl 150 over the Dahl 100. Yes, the 150 is overkill for my fuel system with it's stock pump and my stock HPOP, but the upgrades are coming and I didn't want to have to replace the fuel filter later on for a bigger one.
Originally Posted by SpringerPop
Using a two-micron element (or any size, for that matter) would sure have prevented the problem that caused Kwik to replace his pump.
Pop
I found this insteresting comparison of micron ratings. Makes me think that a 2 micron might not even be that necessary, and a 10 micron alone would probably be plenty. http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=1/2022243161.gif&s=x4
It suprised me just how small 2 microns is. Anyone know what the micron rating is on the factory fuel filter in the bowl? Reason I ask, is I'm thinking having 2 filters may be a little reduntant, and I may just get rid of the factory bowl alltogether. Reason is, when I upgrade to the BTS oil pump, it's a stacked design rather than two inline pumps. It requires raising the fuel bowl. But, I spent a good bit of time on the phone yesterday with Zane over at Wide Open Performance, and he suggested just getting rid of the factory bowl alltogether if I've got a good pre-pump filter. They're running several trucks like that and have notices no problems. That certianly would make plumbing easier for the fuel lines, especially if I upgrade to bigger lines from the tank to the engine. It makes sense though. Why filter it twice when the first one is probably taking care of all the filtering and water seperation. I just want to know what the factory filter's micron rating is, because I don't want to go bigger than that.
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