very good point there beemer. sometines it is the simplest things that get overlooked, and people spend a fortune trying to fix something that a drop or 2 of oil will solve.

jmy510, what motor are you having the spark knock problem with???

 

The thing is the centrifugal weight pivot points and cam surfaces under the points cam need cleaning and lube, more than just a drop of oil from the top.
A light weight grease like high temp disc wheel bearing grease will keep things running smooth after the parts are cleaned.
.....=o&o>.....

 

I had put the igniter II in my 67 Fairlane. I luckily had my old set of points in the glovebox.. I never got the car to run good with it and it finally made me switch back to the points. Well problem solved, car ran excellent.
If you however are not worried about the cars distributor appearing factory (why I wanted to use it in my Fairlane) then go with a better one like a Mallory Unilite or something like that. I got one in my Pinto and love it. Just a thought.

 

Tom I have a rebuilt 390 with 9.5 pistons. I'll go over the advance lube and new springs. It has always missed the spot between no idle and knocking. Just thought a new distributor would have been a better idea.
-
Jim
69 red ranger 390
19' searay 351w

 

i just put an igniter II with their flame thrower II with their low resistance spark plug wires. my '70 pickup fired right, no problem so far. in fact it ran so well that i had to turn down the idle speed. we'll see how it works out.

 

Fair 96, if under the hood looks don't count for show a Crane XR 3000 would be a great improvement with their LX91 coil, second on the list is Unilites system. Both are optically triggered vs a magnetic trigger system that can get false outside signals. Both are a inductive system vs a CD system, a inductive system has a longer spark duration.
.....=o&o>.....

 

i notice you have the same setup as me i have a 1960 f100 with a 360 v8 auto 2wd i have the 40000 volt coil flame thower and the ignitor it talks about a ballast resistor or a resistor wire did you have to deal with any of that could you send me a couple pics if you did i hooked mine up to my old coil and it works but i have the new coil already and i might as well change it i didnt see no ballast resistor and also it talks about it for my tach install as well

 

Put in pertonix 2 years ago into a freshly rebuilt 390. 50,000 miles later of hauling my 4000lb boat, 2000lb camper, running mulch with rear dragging, and of course smoking chevy's, no problems. Those chevy guys in those shiny new trucks really hate getting smoked by an old farm truck. I guess that applys to any guy in shiny new truck. My son says I'm childish??

 

my truck did not have a ballast.

 

sorry if this is beaten to death but i put in the pertronix ignitor and it talked about a resistor wire or a ballast resistor i looked for one and there is straight 3 wires going into the firewall from the engine bay 1 is red/brown to the positive on the coil another is red something to little temperature plug on the intake manifold another is white to the oil temp sensor or pressure sensor these are all tape together and run into the firewall with no boxes in the way then under the firewall they run into a big coil of wires and a big plug that mixes them into the harness then to the key no other boxes to be found i bought a multi metre and hooked red to red on coil and then engine ground and got 12.21 and up a little this is when the key is switched to run not to start so this means i have no resistor either? should i just go ahead and try plugging in the new flame thrower 1.5 ohm 40,000 volt coil? i dont have any specs on the origional coil it is an autolite prolly factory though since everything else was origional and factory. does anyone have any specs on the origional coils on these i dont have the model number handy unfortunatly but someone told me all they knew was it was prolly 20,000 volts

 

I have Pertronix in my '69 300 and a MSD 6A box shocking it, been running it for 8 yrs now and never had one problem with it. I packed points and condenser for a while till it proved itself reliable. My truck is my daily driver, so if I was going to have problems I think I would have had them by now.

I also installed one in my father-n-laws low mile '62 Corvair. He never drives it, so I don't know how well it works for him.

My brother ran a set in his '66 mustang and never had any problems with it either. It was his college car, so it got run hard.

My dad has a set in his 417 (390 w a 428 crank and overbore) and has never had a lick of problems with it either.

 

Scott, A 390 with a 428 crank makes a 410 engine, they were installed in Mercuries for 2 years back in the early 60s.

John

 

How much does the .30 over add to the displacement? About 3 cid?

 

Guys are coming up with numbers like 417... like what the heck is that, Ford never offered an engine that size that I am aware of.

410 60 over might mean more to us more mature types.

John

 

Like the 414 a 410 at .020" over to allow for a future rebore.
By the way the 410 was an optional motor vs a 390 in 66 and 67 not early 60's Mercury as the Marauder. Sorry John correction was needed.
At .060" over your at 422 ci, add a Scat 4.125" arm your at 437.8 ci, or their 4.250" arm and ya have a 451 ci. Look at Greg's build, 428 .020" over with 4.125" arm at 446 ci.

I find it quite simple with these size motors figuring the bore to type of FE block used and arm length installed but then again I work these numbers alot.
I want a 482" motor for X-mas Santa!

Maybe for future clarification for other members and Moderators if needed they (Moderators) should have members post type of block with bore and crank stroke used for their build with the growing parts after market.