I just found what I think is the source of a horrible clunking that started last night. The front bottom bolt that holds the shock in place on my 93 aero AWD is busted straight off. Is there some easy way to remove the remains of the old bolt? The head is some weird flat round bit, and I'm afraid its welded on or something. Tried WD-40 and pounding on it, no luck. Am I just going to have to drill a new hole for the bolt, or is there a trick to removing the old one? Thanks.

 

M,

going to have to drill old broken off bolt and remove with "Easy Out".....put up on lift and drill with hvy duty 1/2 inch commercial 120v drill with carbide or titanium bit....bolts are tough...use a bit size that will fit "easy out" bolt remover
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2003/techtotech.cfm

take new shock bottom bolts to tool retailer and get thread chaser tap for bolt size, chase threads in both mounted nuts on lower suspension arm
be careful, these hvy duty drills can break arms...wear googles, nothing like the pain of a hot burning metal cutting fusing into the surface of the eye ball

install new bolts with anti seize compound or some wheel bearing grease on threads, torque 2 bottom bolts to 25 lbs ft MAX, and top shaft nut to 30 lbs ft MAX

 

can you get a small grinder in there to grind the head of, that would be the easy'est way. I looked at mine but it is just a regular nut and bolt so is the awd a different set up, mine is just a 2wd.

 

can't really get anything in there to grind it, so that won't work. I don't know why they have this setup at all. Seems like a pain to me. All four are this way.

96- Would it just be easier to drill out a hole to one side of the old bolt? Seems to be that it would be easier to just drill a hole in the steel than to try getting that old stud out. Then I could stick a grade 5 bolt in there or something. I looked, and it doesn't seem to be reinforced or anything around the studs, so I don't see why that wouldn't work. Whatever I do is going to have to be from the bottom, so it would be a royal pain to try to drill the old stud and remove it, working from the wrong end. I'm not even sure they are supposed to be removable, in which case I would end up having to drill the whole thing out.

 

I haven't looked at mine recently, but I think that "bolt" may be just a stud pressed in from from the top. If you can jack up that control arm, you can get a hammer under there to try to pound it out. Then you can replace it with a grade 8 bolt of the same size. I did something like this before on a stud I broke off of a shock in a similar position. The stud was pressed into a serated hole that keeps it from turning when you turn the nut on the other side. I'm willing to bet that the hole in the control arm is the same way.

 

I used to remove brocken bolts with drill! Easy way! And replace all the shock bolts and nuts.

 

Whoa........hold on guys.....stop the drills....

Unless somebody monkeyed with that, the bolt is not threaded into the control arm. On both of my 'Stars there is a spring clip that fits over an oversized hole in the control arm for each shock mounting bolt. The clip has a larger hole on the bottom and a coarse thread nut on the top. Depending on how close to the hole in the control arm your bolt broke, you should be able to either pry the clip off, or at the worst grind or cut the clip where it folds over so it separates into two pieces and falls off. If this is a "custom installation" (shade tree mechanic) then all bets are off......

 

To use a drill is my habit!

 

'96 Aero 2 and AWD are set up with bolts from bottom into retained nuts on top of control arm, nut retainer clips are a bitch to get at with a grinder or air power chisel without dropping the lower suspension arm down from the upper
see Aero service manual

 

Also I believe those captive nuts for the shocks are no longer available from Ford .

Come on Ford how much room does a nut really take in the parts warehouse?

 

man, I missed a whole bunch of posts! Never got the notification.

As far as the bolts/studs go, So far I can't drill the problem out. I just can't get a drill on it enough to get anywhere, from top or bottom. The bottom is the remains of the busted bolt, maybe 1/4 inch long. And all 4 of them are the same, and I think that they are the pressed one, not welded. There definatly aren't any clips or retainers. Wish there was, it would be easier. I'll try pounding the bolts some, maybe they will come out.

 

I just verified this on my 1990 AWD; the lower "bolts" are indeed studs pressed in from the top of the control arm. If you still have that 1/4" sticking out the bottom, you should be able to pount it out from below. Just raise that control arm up high enough to get a good swing with a small sledge. Try not to hit the remaining good stud.

good luck

 

i just did this last week on our 93 when i changed shocks, the old ones either broke or i had to torch out, with them broke off i just slid the retaining clip to the lower control arm out of the way and went to the hardware store and bought a bolt that was about an inch long and a matching nut, with a lock washer, i put the washer on the inside area so it won't spin while your tightening it down. worked great.

 

my problem is that my van doesn't have the retaining clips. It has the studs pressed into place. I think that it may have to do with the fact that its an AWD. But I found out that the shock wasn't the source of my problems. Looks like the chain in my transfer case is stretched, and now is jumping pretty much any time I try to dive it.

 

unplug the AWD controller under the driver seat, does the jumping problem go away? if yes, problem with AWD electronic control components, axle speed sensors plural mounted on top of transfer case, wiring plugs or sockets corroded or transfer case electromech. clutch

is your AWD light on or flashing at times?

that TC chain will take twice the horsepower a 4L can develop, chance of chain being worn and jumping is extremely unlikely