Ball joint labor time
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Ball joint labor time
Good day,
I'm hoping to get some help with a question. I just found out I need to replace all four ball joints on my 2000 excursion. (not bad considering this is the 1st replacement and I have over 200000 miles on it.) Question is this, I usually do my own work, but this seems a little too involved for a backyard mechanic so I brought it to a shop. 1st off they inform me its 300 for the parts (yikes) and then 5 hours of labor at 75.00 an hour. So i am wondering if they are shafting me or what. Does anyone know the labor time listed in chiltons for ball joint replacement? I know the parts price is high, auto zone has them for 1/2 that, but need to know about the labor time.
Thanks in advance
bob
I'm hoping to get some help with a question. I just found out I need to replace all four ball joints on my 2000 excursion. (not bad considering this is the 1st replacement and I have over 200000 miles on it.) Question is this, I usually do my own work, but this seems a little too involved for a backyard mechanic so I brought it to a shop. 1st off they inform me its 300 for the parts (yikes) and then 5 hours of labor at 75.00 an hour. So i am wondering if they are shafting me or what. Does anyone know the labor time listed in chiltons for ball joint replacement? I know the parts price is high, auto zone has them for 1/2 that, but need to know about the labor time.
Thanks in advance
bob
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: COLBERT WA
Trusman
I have a 2000 excursion with 105,000 miles and I have 1 upper joint going bad.
I got a quote from les schwab here in Spokane Wa. and it was $200.00 for the parts and $200.00 for labor. He told me it would take about 1 1/2 hrs. I'd get a second opinion. I haven't done it yet , but it seemed fair.
I got a quote from les schwab here in Spokane Wa. and it was $200.00 for the parts and $200.00 for labor. He told me it would take about 1 1/2 hrs. I'd get a second opinion. I haven't done it yet , but it seemed fair.
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
i'm a mechanic and that is about right. gotta pay to play. consider your self very luck i have done a number of super duties with under 80,000. and they needed one or more. i only replace them in pairs and generally by fours cause if one is gone the other are very likely to be soon.
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thanks
Thanks for the quick responses. I know this is an involved job and ok ill go with the 4 hours of labor. but 300 for parts???? autozone has them for approx 30 for uppper and 45 for lower. Grand total parts 150.00. Where is the other 150 in parts comming from. I called the shop recently and asked if they are using dealer parts, thought maybe this was the reason for the hike, nope ordered from napa. Asked why the cost difference and i was told i dont know what i am talking about, I must have the wrong parts. So im thinking they are still trying to get over on me. I guess ill just find a different shop to goto, which sucks bec this one is right around the corner from my house. Well thanks again for the quick responses.
bob
bob
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
ok just looked at napa online and the ball joints should be about $200 so maybe they are a bit off but i am not sure what their mark up is. i would show them the napa online prices and ask them whats up
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Kansas
Originally Posted by rob5482
Thanks for the quick responses. I know this is an involved job and ok ill go with the 4 hours of labor. but 300 for parts???? autozone has them for approx 30 for uppper and 45 for lower. Grand total parts 150.00. Where is the other 150 in parts comming from.
bob
bob
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Coal Valley, Illinois
It's not a bad job to do yourself. Here is a great write up. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=354091 . If you do it yourself, get good quality ball joints like Moog. I ordered mine online, but found out later that O'Reilly's carries them. You can get the rest of the seals etc. at dealership. The other parts (dust seals, knuckle seals, o rings etc.) aren't cheap, that's where the extra cost comes from. It's a good feeling to do a job like this yourself. It makes me sick how much money I've paid the dealership to work on my vehicles over the years. Now I try to do most everything myself. 
Last edited by hink10; Mar 13, 2006 at 11:34 PM.
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From: Tulsa, OK
OK. How can you tell ball joints need replacement?
I have 74K on my "Ex", and hear a light knocking sound from the front end when passing over a bump. I'm thinking either tie-rod ends or ball joints. Opinions?
I have 74K on my "Ex", and hear a light knocking sound from the front end when passing over a bump. I'm thinking either tie-rod ends or ball joints. Opinions?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Coal Valley, Illinois
Originally Posted by Forest
OK. How can you tell ball joints need replacement?
I have 74K on my "Ex", and hear a light knocking sound from the front end when passing over a bump. I'm thinking either tie-rod ends or ball joints. Opinions?
I have 74K on my "Ex", and hear a light knocking sound from the front end when passing over a bump. I'm thinking either tie-rod ends or ball joints. Opinions?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
Originally Posted by Forest
OK. How can you tell ball joints need replacement?
I have 74K on my "Ex", and hear a light knocking sound from the front end when passing over a bump. I'm thinking either tie-rod ends or ball joints. Opinions?
I have 74K on my "Ex", and hear a light knocking sound from the front end when passing over a bump. I'm thinking either tie-rod ends or ball joints. Opinions?
to check ball joints you have to jack the front end up and then grab the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and try to move in and out or up and down. if there is movement you need a buddy to shack while you watch to see if its the bearing or the ball joints. if they are bad replace them in pairs. no sense in doing one then a month later doing the other!
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
hink10 your faster on the draw than i. Good advice. another easy way to check the bushing is just crawl under there and grap hold and try to move the bar up and down. if there is ANY movement it will clunk.