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Old Mar 14, 2006 | 09:50 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by rob5482
...1st off they inform me its 300 for the parts (yikes) and then 5 hours of labor at 75.00 an hour
It cost me $26.99 a ball joint last week at O'Reilly's.

AllData says 5.9 hours of labor... a buddy who's an ASE mechanic says about 6 hours too.

I'll find out this weekend I hope... if the rotors come in.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 06:14 AM
  #17  
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Well decided to do them my self and what a PITA!!! PIcked up all the parts for about 200 including all new seals for the axle and such. Took me almost 5 hours on one side, mainly bec I couldnt seperate the ball joints. Broke 2 pickle forks!!!! Finally on the third one (and a 1/2 a bottle of penetrating oil) they finally came out. Next prob (mruphys law) my electric impact wrench craped out!!!!! Do you have any idea what its like trying to press ball joints in with a hand wrench!!!!!!! Well I finally got everything done and in, so today ill do the other side. Tell you one thing i dont recomend this to an inexperienced backyard mechanic, thats for sure

Thanks for all the help and that write up! That really helped!

bob
 
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 08:30 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by rob5482
Well decided to do them my self and what a PITA!!! PIcked up all the parts for about 200 including all new seals for the axle and such. Took me almost 5 hours on one side, mainly bec I couldnt seperate the ball joints. Broke 2 pickle forks!!!! Finally on the third one (and a 1/2 a bottle of penetrating oil) they finally came out. Next prob (mruphys law) my electric impact wrench craped out!!!!! Do you have any idea what its like trying to press ball joints in with a hand wrench!!!!!!! Well I finally got everything done and in, so today ill do the other side. Tell you one thing i dont recomend this to an inexperienced backyard mechanic, thats for sure

Thanks for all the help and that write up! That really helped!

bob
It's always easier the second time! I used hand tools with the press, mounting the press in my vise helped. Try a 1/2" breaker bar if you have one. I have to say I was pretty sore after the job. Just think of all the money you are saving! Good luck on the second side!
 

Last edited by hink10; Mar 15, 2006 at 08:42 AM.
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Old Mar 15, 2006 | 09:04 AM
  #19  
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Anyone have a diagram of where these are located?? I'm drawing a blank.
Thanks.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2006 | 02:24 PM
  #20  
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Easiest way to tell is to get all weight off the tire and try to rock it up and down grabbing on the top and bottom of the tire almost like you were trying to rock it loose if it were stuck. while doing so you shouldnt feel or see any play in the tire at all. if there is some look at the ball joint at the same time and you should see movement between the ball and socket. if it doesnt move then the bearings themselves are loose or damaged. If the tire feels tight then your problem is some where else.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 12:43 AM
  #21  
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you could have someone step on the brakes while you try and move the tire up and down. if it doesn't move when he has his foot on the brake then you know that its the bearings.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 11:42 AM
  #22  
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Ok...I have some basic questions since I know nothing about ball joints but need mine replaced. My dealer was doing some other work on my 2003 V10 4x4 Excursion with 68K miles and quoted me $820 to replace the lower ball joints.

To save some money I asked my aftermarket guy (who has done a lot of great, inexpensive work for me) what he would charge for ball joint installation. Yesterday he quoted me $870 for upper AND lower for all four.

So my questions are
1. When you guys are talking 5.9 hours spec is that upper and lower for all four?
2. Should I be doing upper and lower at the same time even if the dealer said only the lower needed replacing?
3. It seems like I am getting a heck of a deal from my aftermarket guy if the dealer quoted $800 just for lower ball joints. What do you think??
4.What should I do?
 
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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 11:59 AM
  #23  
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If you plan on keeping the truck you my as well do all four. Approx. $40 for each ball joint. It shouldnt take much longer than 4 hours total to do the whole job. $700 labor to do the job from your guy???????
 
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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 12:02 PM
  #24  
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just replaced upper and lower ball joints also new rotors and brakes on 1989 bronco with had 188000 miles. here in norman okla by alocal mech his total bill was 1000.50 .labor time was about 7 hours not cheap but considering that i needed new brakes too. well worth it.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 12:09 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Coolstrategist
1. When you guys are talking 5.9 hours spec is that upper and lower for all four?

The 5.9 hours from AllData is for all four ball joints on both sides.
Here is what all Data says...
<table style="border-collapse: collapse;" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" height="137" width="418"><col style="width: 104pt;" width="138"> <col style="width: 54pt;" width="72"> <col style="width: 76pt;" width="101"> <tbody><tr style="height: 15.75pt;" height="21"> <td class="xl43" style="border-style: none none solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color -moz-use-text-color rgb(92, 131, 180); border-width: medium medium 1.5pt; height: 15.75pt;" height="21" width="138">Replace Ball Joint</td> <td class="xl44" style="border-style: none none solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color -moz-use-text-color rgb(92, 131, 180); border-width: medium medium 1.5pt; width: 54pt;" align="center" width="72">Skill Level</td> <td class="xl44" style="border-style: none none solid; border-color: -moz-use-text-color -moz-use-text-color rgb(92, 131, 180); border-width: medium medium 1.5pt; width: 76pt;" align="center" width="101">Standard Hours</td> </tr> <tr style="height: 15pt;" height="20"> <td style="height: 15pt;" height="20">One</td> <td class="xl45" align="center">B</td> <td class="xl45" align="center">3.1</td> </tr> <tr style="height: 15pt;" height="20"> <td style="height: 15pt;" height="20">One, Each Side</td> <td class="xl45" align="center">B</td> <td class="xl45" align="center">4.6</td> </tr> <tr style="height: 15pt;" height="20"> <td style="height: 15pt;" height="20">All, One Side</td> <td class="xl45" align="center">B</td> <td class="xl45" align="center">3.5</td> </tr> <tr style="height: 15pt;" height="20"> <td style="height: 15pt;" height="20">Three</td> <td class="xl45" align="center">B</td> <td class="xl45" align="center">5.2</td> </tr> <tr style="height: 15pt;" height="20"> <td style="height: 15pt;" height="20">All</td> <td class="xl45" align="center">B</td> <td class="xl45" align="center">5.9</td> </tr> </tbody></table>


2. Should I be doing upper and lower at the same time even if the dealer said only the lower needed replacing?
I'd do them all at the same time.

3. It seems like I am getting a heck of a deal from my aftermarket guy if the dealer quoted $800 just for lower ball joints. What do you think??

It really depends on your comfort level with the mechanic vs the dealer. Personnally, I don't feel that the dealer brings anything to the table than a good mechanic. At $800, you're paying basically $113/hr for labor as the parts are less than $120 ($27 each at O'Reilly).

All that said, if you're going to take the time to replace one on each side, you might as well replace them all... labor difference is 1.3 hours, if you do it again, the price will be another 4.6 hours. Costs less if you do'em all at the same time.
 

Last edited by NewXer; Mar 19, 2006 at 12:14 PM.
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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 12:13 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by hink10
It's not a bad job to do yourself. Here is a great write up. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=354091 . If you do it yourself, get good quality ball joints like Moog. I ordered mine online, but found out later that O'Reilly's carries them. You can get the rest of the seals etc. at dealership. The other parts (dust seals, knuckle seals, o rings etc.) aren't cheap, that's where the extra cost comes from. It's a good feeling to do a job like this yourself. It makes me sick how much money I've paid the dealership to work on my vehicles over the years. Now I try to do most everything myself.
Cratemotor,

Well according to Hink10 the ball joints are only part of the cost. And if 5.9 hours labor is correct then that is at least $450-$600 labor depending on installer (dealer, corner shop). Remember, the dealer quoted $800 for lower joints only.

Seems Rharper is in the same pricing ballpark. It now appears my $870 upper and lower deal is a good one. Thanks for your info Rharper.

Cratemotor...These pricing/parts discrepencies are why I am asking someone to answer ALL the questions I posed.

I would like to make an informed decision this week.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 12:18 PM
  #27  
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Nice information NewXer!

So would you do it for $870 (full total with tax) with the aftermarket guy or stick w/Ford? Sounds like the aftermarket guy. From your chart it looks like Ford would hit me with another $150 or so to the $800 lower job to add the upper replacement for a total of close to $1k or so.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 12:40 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Coolstrategist
... So would you do it for $870 (full total with tax) with the aftermarket guy or stick w/Ford?
Me, I'm with hink10, I'm doing it myself as soon as my rotors turn up. Aside from that, if it was me & the aftermarket guy was someone I trusted, I'd go with him.

IMHO, the Ford dealer isn't going to bring anything to the table.
 

Last edited by NewXer; Mar 19, 2006 at 12:43 PM.
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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 01:09 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by NewXer
Me, I'm with hink10, I'm doing it myself as soon as my rotors turn up. Aside from that, if it was me & the aftermarket guy was someone I trusted, I'd go with him.

IMHO, the Ford dealer isn't going to bring anything to the table.
Well since doing it myself is not an option...and the aftermarkey guy has done excellent work (some free) for me in the past...and his quote is in the ballpark....I will have him do the install this week. I may get him down even more.

Is there anything with respect to the installation that I should ensure he does/replaces?
 
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Old Mar 19, 2006 | 03:47 PM
  #30  
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do upper and lower at the same time! its not worth it to not do cause you will pay labor twice if the other fails 2 months down the road. also on superduties the seals on the alxe for the vacum hubs and the o-ring on the hub bearing all need to be replaced when you remove them. you can get away without it but chances are you will be taking it all apart again if you damage one of them and your hubs don't work as it should.
 
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