Hi guys,

I've managed to get an edelbrock 1406 for my 360. I have a stock cast 4bbl manifold, and it looks like I need at least a 1" spacer to get the linkage to clear. Other than that, I don't know what I might run into. I stripped the 2 bbl manifold off today, waiting for my other manifold to get back from the jet wash now. I'm going to redo the valveguide seals while I've got it this far apart, anything else I should do, or any tips for setting up the carb?

I don't really want to tear any farther into the motor, because I'm going to rebuild it soon anyways, I just wanted to get this carb on and adjusted first.

Thanks,
Matt

 

I'd go find a good book on Edelbrock carbs and read up. That's how I learned Holley's.

This should help though:
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...ers_manual.pdf

 

I have one of them collecting dust these days. I have since learned that it is not ideal to run the choke on the edelbrock off the stator. I am not 100% about that but my choke never really worked and i ran it off the stator. I believe the stator is about 7.5 volts and the choke should get 12volts. Maybe the eps manual or the link Rusty provided should tell.

The edelbrock carb is simple but not perfect, they have a tendency to stumble and or die on wot from a stop. I am not sure that can be totally eliminated, but i found a get a/f setting on the idle mixture helped. My 390 like about 1.75 turns out, a stock 360 may be 1.5. I had it on a buddy's 302 and that was just over a turn.

The edelbrock was too lean for my 390, I believe everytime I opened the secondaries, the motor went lean. The metering rods are a 2 minute job. And as withh all carbs they may need some changes, for the edelbrock its typically the stepup springs and metering rods.

If you have an auto, you will need the kickdown rod extension and throttle bracket adaptor.

then one day for craps and giggles, i bought a new holley to compare them. Went back and forth several times, and like I said my 1406 is collecting dust.

Btw,ported or timed vac soucre is on passenger side of carb.

 

Thanks for the help guys, this is great!

I know this isn't the most desired carb out there, I traded some parts for it so I don't have much $ into it. It's gotta be better than the almost 40 year old stocker right?

Truck is a 4 speed right now, with plans of returning it to an auto when I do the engine rebuild. I see you can buy the ford auto linkage seperately from summit, I'll probably go that route unless there's a better way I don't know about. Planning on changing the motor to a mild 390, will this carb be big enough at 5000 feet?


Thanks
Matt

 

[QUOTE=fordeverpower]I am not 100% about that but my choke never really worked and i ran it off the stator. I believe the stator is about 7.5 volts and the choke should get 12volts.

That's right.

The best way to deal with this is to use the wire from the stator terminal on the alternator and hook it up to the coil of a new relay. The contacts of the relay should be hooked up to 12v from your solenoid (battery side,) and the other contact to the choke. This way you have the benefit of only having juice to the choke while the engine is running, but get the full 12v for the new carb's choke. (Put a 10a fuse in the line off the solenoid, as close to the source as possible.)

 

The new Holley 4160 also requires a keyed 12 volt ignition source as per Holly directions. Mine works good

 

Right again, just don't take it off your ignition.

 

94matt --

You should have no problems at 5000ft with the 600cfm 1406. I have used the 1406 for over 8 years now on my mild built '76 F150 4x4 390FE...at 6000+ft with no ill effects. Actually...it runs like a EFI unit. No hesitation...and smooth throughout the power band.

Of course...I also upgraded the electronics...with a DUI unit. Makes for a better burn...

Good luck!

biz