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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

Crankshaft sensor

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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 09:39 PM
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Crankshaft sensor

I am trying to change the cranksaft sensor on my 96 2.3 5spd. The bolt that holds the crankshaft sensor in place is rusted to the point that when I turned it aobut 1/8 turn the head broke off. This left about 1/8" above the bracket for the crankshaft sensor. I have removed the timing belt covers, crankshaft pulley, and timing belt. My problem is that I can not get the timing belt sprocket off the crankshaft to pull the bracket off the engine to get the bolt out. Anyone with any ideas?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 11:27 PM
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this has been covered before, it is common. as suggested by another person, put a breaker bar on the bolt and let the handle rest on the frame of the truck. then bump the starter (dont start the truck) and the bolt should break free. or use a big impact wrench.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2006 | 07:50 AM
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Thanks el conquistador, but if you reread my post, it is not about the bolt that holds the pulley in place. Behind the pulley and trigger wheel is a sprocket that drives the timing belt. This is the sprocket that I am refering to. Any insight anyone?
 
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Old Mar 10, 2006 | 07:14 PM
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Lot's of liquid wrench or PB, drill and an easy-out. Maybe you could get one of those bolt-outs to grab the stud rather than drilling/easy-out.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 08:53 AM
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Thanks Ken00,

I did get the timing belt gear off this weekend. I now have the bracket off the engine and will be working on getting the bolt out this week. From the looks of the bolt, it will need heat along with the PB to get it loose. Will be putting the bracket in a vise and using a torch to heat it to break the stud loose. I damaged the front seal getting the gear off so I have to chase down one of these to put in this week.

Thanks!
 
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 09:31 AM
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Spray it down daily with PB.

The front seal on your '96 is 10 years old, so it's not really that much of a reach to consider replacing it as sound preventive maintenance.

When I replaced the timing belt and crank sensor on my '94 SHO, I also replaced the front main seal and all the cam seals, as a matter of basic upkeep. When I recently dropped the tranny to replace the clutch in the same car, I also replaced the rear main seal.

As long as you are going in that deep, a lot of the work is being done anyway, the opportunity is there.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 11:08 AM
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I would have to agree Rockledge. How do you get the gear off for the camshaft? I couldn't break the bolt loose on my auxillary shaft. Not sure how to hold the shaft and get the bolt loose. Had to do smone creative manuvering to get the inner timing cover off.

I have the truck at work in the back room so we threw the front engine cover that holds the crankshaft sensor in a parts washer to soak for a while. Hopefully that will help to loosen the bolt.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 11:25 AM
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I used a rubber strap wrench to hold the gear. It would help if you had someone do the holding while you do the wrenching, although I was able to handle mine by myself, albeit with the motor still in the car.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 11:46 AM
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Thanks Rockledge!!!! Had not thought about a strap wrench. I can always get one of the kids to come around long enough to give me a hand with the strap wrench. I will look for both seals to put it back together.

We just put the bracket into a vise and heated it and did get the bolt to turn a little. Its soaking in PB Blaster right now and will give it some more heat later and try to get it all the way out later today.

The motor is still in the truck. I am fortunate that I can use the warehouse at work to leave the truck in and work on it as I can find the time. I hate having it sitting here, but at least I have another vehicle to drive.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 01:52 PM
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FWIW, I used a small piece of PVC pipe of the proper diameter to help get the seals in straight and flush. Line 'em up and then a pop or two with a rubber mallet and they should seat nicely. Lube the edges of the seals with some grease to help them slide in.

To remove the seals, I very carefully drilled a small hole in the seal (careful not to nick the cam!) and then screwed in a small sheetrock screw just enough to catch the threads firmly. The screw head provides the grip you need to pull (or pry) the seal out.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2006 | 02:38 PM
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Thanks Rockledge!

Great tip for replacing the seals! I will get the appropriate sizes together before I put the seals in. Amazing how much easier a job can be with a little ingenuity!

I just came back to the office from the plant and I am happy to report that with the help of an actelyne torch and a little help the bolt is out and the threads cleaned up nicely with a tap! Anyone ever replace these bolts with a stainless steel bolt? Stainless and aluminum are not supposed to react to one another. I was thinking a stainless bolt and washer with anitsieze may be just the answer.

Thanks!
Vic
 
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