Hello.

I need new ball joints for my 2000 f-350, if i were to install them
does anyone know what would be involved. (how much time) (tools)
stuff like that. And also where could i find ball joints for a really good deal.

thanks, anything would help.

 

special tools; ball joint press($40 From harbor frieght), other than that normal hand tools and snap ring pliers, large sockets/ wrenches to fit the nuts on both joints, can't remember what size they are. time: book time is 2 hours or so a side. if you've never done it more time!

parts: any parts store. i recommend napa or carquest cause that what i use.

 

I just did one side the other weekend. it wasn't to bad. The hardest thing that you will encounter is replacing the hub seal(has to be replaced) which is supposed to take a special tool to install onto the axle. I used a 4" piece of galvanized tubing to put mine on. Just make sure that you don't bend it while installing it on the axle, or you'll have to get a knew one. You can also take the axles and seals down to the ford dealership and they will install them for you. And you might as well just replace the needle bearings inside the hub(that way you don't have to worry about it later), they are like 5-10 bucks. There is also an oring on the outside of the hub that has to be replaced(or the 4x4 won't work). The only other problem that I had was the bottom Ball joint didn't want to come out, so I used a pickle fork inbetween the knuckle and axle casing to remove it(didn't have a ball joint press). The only tools that most people don't have is an 1"1/8 and 1"5/16 wrench to remove the ball joint nuts.

Just a couple of things that i ran into. You can do a search in here for replacing the ball joints. that is how I did it.

 

If you can find it "RACERGUY" did an excellent write up on it step by step, I think I found it in the superduty forum.

 

powerstrokeshop.com sells the complete kit which includes Moog greasable ball joints and all of the seals & o-rings, and has a link to installation instructions with pictures. I just did mine this weekend, took me about 8 hours to do both sides. Had to rent a ball joint press (which does not include the tubes you need for a 4 wheel drive, had to rent an additional "master kit" which included the correct tubes but not the press, so if you have a 4x4, you need to rent 2 different ball joint kits).

 

Mine is a Early 99, should be alike i think.
Just did mine this week,
Murray's autoparts, rent ball joint press master kit $0, Master ball joint pickle set $0, (just pay deposit equal to price if lost, get all money back) Did one side at a time, Just needed short impact sockets up to 1.1/8 (said 1.1/8 not sure what size it was)with 6 in extendsion, Craftsman electric impact for Ball joint press, Needle nose pliers, Vice grips for carter pins, stout screw driver, (there is one snap ring on bottom,) that can be removed with screw driver, good hammer. and some PB blaster, and pry bar.never sieze lubricant,
Safly jacked it iup (I used 3 ton jack and 1 6 ton jack stand) and removed Tire, caliper, rotor, Dust shield, and brake anti-lock sensor, (easy with sensor,) Spray PB blaster on all bolts and nuts,take tie rod end bust castle nut off and turn over so that the nut is upside down and even with stud, (This way you can bust it loose without damaging treads or rubber boot)then hit it loose with hammer and it will drop out then remove nut, and sit it on sway-bar (dont use fork on tie-rod, you can damge boot or cup that the pin sits in) Remove dust shield and anti-lock brake sensor, Then look at top ball joint and you will see horazonital bolt, remove it, then you will see a round spacer around top ball joint pin, (look at the top you will see split in it, mark area of slpit with scribe or knife, it will need to go in same place, (it's an aliginement adjuster) Take pry bar and pry it out wiggling it back and fort till it comes out, look at bottom ball joint Bust nut , leaving the nut at the top, (do not remove nut) take any pickle fork that will reach around lower ball joint and smack with hammer, till joint pops. (leaving nut on keeps axle from hitting the ground,) remove c-clip from bottom one,Then using press, press out bottom one then top one,(easier so you can get treaded pusher inside lower ball joint hole to get pressure on bottom of top ball joint) Clean all parts, then coat bores with never sieze and repress in ball-joints doing top one first, then place axle back in place tighten nut on bottom ball-joint till you have about a 1/4 inch to go, then replace top sleeve, (make sure it clean and a good coat of never-seize is on both sides) once it is tapped in place, replace horizontal bolt and tighten down leaving loose, then tighten bottom ball joint nut to 90lbs if you dont have tourqe wrench like me just crank it down really good, then finsh tightening the horizontal bolt till you see it sqweeze upper ball-joing firmly,Keeping sleeve down as far is it will go,(there will be space, the edge does not sit flat, might be alignment guide take the tie-rod end and remount it, and the rest is like doing brakes, you might want to inspect rotor seal, this job did take me 3 hours a side but im kind of **** on cleaning stuff before replacing, Good luck and I hope this will help some, let me know if this was good for ya,

 

Here it is:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=354091
Nut

 

Thread moved to the Super Duty forum