The rear end on my '73 F250 Camper Special 2wd is making noise. The bench rebuild is beyond my mechanical talents so I'm looking for advice. Should I look for a rebuilt unit? Should I get one at the bone yard and pray it's in better shape than mine? Or is there a possibility we can fix the worn parts without a swap. While I'm at it, what is a good all around gear ratio set up for this truck. I don't do any heavy pulling, but I do alot of defensive city driving on the LA freeway system.

Thanks.

The Angry Viking

 

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The Dana 60 is a very good axle, and will last a long time if not run out of oil or really abused.

If you can't rebuild yours (don't feel bad it's rather complicated, especially without the proper tools), I recommend checking the boneyards as rebuilds can be expensive and I've repaired ones that were not rebuilt properly by "professionals". Check inside it, looking for metal particles in the bottom (there should not be any) before laying down any cash. Note the color of the oil - it should not have a metallic look.

You can pull the cover to check the general condition of your axle. Look at the bottom of the housing for metal particles and note the color of the oil. Does it have a metallic look? The most this inspection will cost is the oil + a gasket if you stop there. Reassembling it at that point will not hurt anything - you will be right where you started.

A whine that changes with throttle position is usally pinion bearings/pinion depth problems, but could be carrier bearings. A rumble that is dependant on MPH but not throttle probably is wheel bearing(s) - inside the brake drum(s).

As for the ratio, well the 3.07 is nice for economical all-highway / light towing use. 3.54 will give a good mix of economy and 16% more pulling torque than 3.07's. 3.73 is the next step, followed by 4.10 which is good for pulling and less highway use. Bigger/taller rear tires require steeper (higher numerical) ratio for the same engine cruising speed. The ratios 4.56, 4.88, 5.13, 5.57, 5.88, etc are great for off road use and really big tires, but top speed can be severly limited.
My suggestion is to look for 3.54, but don't pass up 3.73's if the price is right. Original equipment axle ratios are listed as a code on the door VIN tag.

Art

 

Thanks for the info Art. I found a rearend shop who has a standard repair/rebuild package for $650. I think I can spec the ratio, so I'll go with 3.54. I'm thinking now that have a nice tight ##### (sorry, couldn't resist) I might have the drive shaft rebuilt and balanced as well. What are your thought's.

Thanks again.

Long Live Dale Earnhardt.

 

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Pay me the $650 and I will build you any ratio even with a Trac-loc if you want. That price seems high to me - I have installed gears/diffs in Dana 60's before for about $150-200 plus parts. I think you should be able to get what you need for about half that price. Where are you located at? (I don't want to deal with shipping)

As for the driveshaft, I suggest replacing the U-joints and re-installing it. If it vibrates then, then I would take it in for balancing.

Art

 

When every boneyard I've called quotes a price of $400 for pre-owned (not re-built) Dana60, I'm thinking that $650 for new parts aint bad. We're still unsure of what all needs to be fixed, the price quoted was their "standard repair".

Is this a repair I can get done at a general mechanic shop? The place I found to do the rebuild is a specialist located 60 miles from my home in Long Beach, CA. Would a trannie shop be better suited for the job? I called a couple local shops but was discouraged in some unintelligible accent. You see, here in california, it is assumed that you have a wad of cash in your pocket ready to give to anyone who can convince you that they need it more than you do. The quest to find a mechanic I trust has been expensive to say the very least.

 

$400 from a junkyard is absurd. Down here in Texas the yards barely pay $100 for a whole, running truck. I know they have to make money and have associated costs, but don't get ripped-off.

I'd ask friends or co-workers for some referrals. Or you could contact a couple classic truck clubs in your area and ask some of the members who they use. Rearends are not rocket science, albeit they are a little more complex than general mechanics. In a place the size of LA, there's bound to be a fair, knowledgeable, and respectable mechanic who can help you out. Finally, you can call AAA, and they will refer you to their member facilities. AAA really holds the shops to high standards.

 

Go to any "pick your part" and grab one out of a similar truck! In ca., you can get one for about $75.00! just pull the cover to make sure its full of oil, and dosn't have any metal shavings in it.

 

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I agree with the two previous posts. I have never paid more than $75 for a boneyard rear end. fe4ever is 100% correct - pull the cover and confirm that it has good oil (no metal particles settled in the bottom). If it was drained of oil, I'd be suspicious.

Remember, the Dana 60 is a good axle that will last and last if it has oil and is not severly abused.

I have a friend (I worked with him the last two times I travelled to the LA area) that I can check with to see if he wants to take on a "side job".

Art

 

Thanks for the lead Art.
I would love nothing more than to spend a Saturday starin' and swearin' at the greasy side of my truck but, these days it seems that at the end of the day - I have more money than time (I know, call me a waaambulance). I would rather trust the job to a competent mechanic who understands just how much a man can love a Ford. I intend to keep the big green truck in the family for all her days so I really could use the advice of an expert to help me get her back up to spec.

Thanks for the advice boys, I'll keep you posted.

The Angry Viking
73' F250 Camper Special