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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 10:07 PM
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Distributor Recurving

I'm rebuilding a 460 for my truck. I'm putting a Comp Cams xe262 cams in it. I'm going to use the stock Duraspark distributor in it. should I recurb the distributor? If so what all should I take to my machinest so that he do's it right?
 
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 09:48 AM
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First I would take it apart and see what slot the mechanical stop is in. Put it in the short one if it isn't already in there. Then put it in & see where it's at with a timing light and go from there.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 10:56 AM
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If you want additional low end grunt performance cheaply, then the dist. recurve is the ticket. If it is a light truck (F-100 or 150) which you wont tow with, then recurve so that max advance is in by 2500 rpm. The shorter the curve the better, so if you can find a 10° slot, all the better. So with a 38° max and a 10° slot (20° at the crank) that gives you and initial of 18°.

For towing, use 36° total and the lowest number slot in your dist. will be 14° if you are lucky, so you end up with an 8° initial. Total advance in by 3000 to 3500.

I am running a towing set up in a heavy truck (F-250 Super-duty) and my curve is 36° total in by 3500 and 14° slot for for 8° initial. This change netted my almost 1 mpg and that is with a C-6 and a 4.10 rearend.

I used a Crane recurve kit, but can't remember which springs I used. I keep thinking both light springs but am not sure.

A trick to shortening the advance slot is to slide a short piece of hose on to the the arm. You don't want less than 10° for a street machine.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 03:40 PM
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This will be in my F350 Dually which I mainly use for towing only.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by MUSKRATT2
This will be in my F350 Dually which I mainly use for towing only.
Then you should do what I did on my F-250 Super Duty, which is actually a light duty 1 ton rated at 88,000 pounds.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 07:33 AM
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Thanks' Bear. I'll do that.
 
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