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Old Mar 5, 2006 | 04:06 PM
  #1  
cjf5150's Avatar
cjf5150
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From: Cedar Rapids, IA
460 install

Need some advise on re-installing the 460 into my 75 F250 2wd. I took the engine out a few months ago to put on a rear sump pan, replace valve seals, and clean and repaint, etc...but now need to know the right steps in re-installing.

I left the tranny and torque converter in the truck and just unbolted the block. I'm worried that when I re-install, I won't be able to line up the tranny with the block without problems. Since I have rotated the crank when the engine was out, I don't think the 4 bolts on the torque copnverter will line up with the 4 holes on the flexplate.

Anyone with some good advise that would make this job easier? This will be my first time doing this, and my fear is I'll never get it back together. I plan on doing it this next weekend, so any advise is appreciated.

Thanks
Chris
 
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Old Mar 5, 2006 | 04:49 PM
  #2  
banjopicker66's Avatar
banjopicker66
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From: Coal country
The torque converter will sit back further into the transmission than the flywheel will go in, so you can fully mate the engine to the transmission without bolting the conveter to the flexplate.

Simply push the torque converter to the rear and mate the engine to the transmission.
Once the two are bolted together, you can pull the converter forward enough.
Working through the inspection plate, work the torque converter forward, and rotate it around a bit until the studs line up to the holes. I use a screwdriver for this. Maybe not the really professional way, but it works for me.

Make sure the converter drain plug lines up with the corresponding hole in the flexplate as well.

Now would be an EXCELLENT time to replace the front seal in the transmission. The seal itself is only a couple of bucks, but the work involved to get to it to replace it is what costs a lot!

Double check that the input shaft and the converter have been set all the way to the rear inside the bellhousing. There is a step machined into the input shaft, and a common mistake is to incorrectly assume the converter is all the way in. If the studs are about an inch from the outer edge (the mating surface) of the case, you are in good shape. If they are right in line with the mating surface of the case, or just barely behind it, then the torque converter needs to go in further. Rock the converter up and down while rotating it left and right, and it will slide all the say in. (Don't forget to lube the seal before putting converter back in.)

One more piece of advice. Try to get the engine to fully mate to the transmission before bolting it tightly. It is easy to crack the transmission case or break the pump if the converter is not all the way in, and you use the bolts to draw the two together.

If you have to use the bolts to draw the two together, use one on each side, and tighten them alternately, a few turns at a time on each side. If they screw in easily (with a ratchet), then you are most likely lined up just right.

Good luck!
 
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Old Mar 6, 2006 | 01:05 PM
  #3  
cjf5150's Avatar
cjf5150
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From: Cedar Rapids, IA
Thank you. Your post is a great help. I also got some extra bolts that I cut the heads off that I'll thread into the block a little to help guide the engine to the tranny and line the holes up.

Thanks again
 
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