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hay art
how about a 69 merc cyclon with a 428 in it. to change plugs r andi motor.i'll do my v10 any day, even over doing my wifes jeep liberty that little sob v6 took 5 hours to change the plugs as every one was seizeing in the head at 30k, 60k plugs sure after i'm 6 feet under.
I'm getting ready to do some maintenance on our newly acquired 2000 X with the V10. This thread is very useful, it's good to read from the guys who have done it, what the best options are for parts and fluids.
I do have one question relating to plugs though. In my past experiences with my wife's former Taurus, it ran like junk on anything but Motorcraft plugs and wires. Does the same hold true for the V10? My local Autozone doesn't have Motorcraft plugs, but they do have Autolite plats. Are the Autolites OK to use?
I do have one question relating to plugs though. In my past experiences with my wife's former Taurus, it ran like junk on anything but Motorcraft plugs and wires. Does the same hold true for the V10? My local Autozone doesn't have Motorcraft plugs, but they do have Autolite plats. Are the Autolites OK to use?
I've used the Autolites in my modulars and they were perfect. I used Motorcraft in my V10 just because I didn't want any problems. I personally think the Autolites are the same plug. Others here are more cynical about that than I am, so maybe you should just go out of your way to the the MC's. Guys?
i too use autolight in my fords and the wifes dcx. and have never had a problem with them.lets also remember autolight was ford at first till god old uncle sam said you are causeing a monopoly and ford sold the autolight brand/name. as to who makes motorcraft for ford now. i don't know for sure but agree with art , as i to can't tell them apart with out the name being seen.
i don't see why you can't use them as long as it's the factory look alike plug. go to walleyworld and get your self a few motorcraft fl820s oil filters. 5w20 or 30 oil as per the owners manual for your x, just stay as close to factory as possible at the speced times ie, miles or months of servicewhat ever hits first.
if your doing those plugs your self get a tube of never seize for the threads new plug boots for the coil packs and a inch pound torqe wrench to torqe the plugs to the factory spec for them . before you pull them out use some air and blow out around the plugs to make sure nothing falls into the hole.
if you don't have the new heads "i think you don't 2000 " be carefull with tighting the plugs thats why the torqe wrench is so much needed.
Thanks very much for the advice guys! That was quick!
I'm planning on using the '03 up plugs, with the longer length of threads. Even with the older heads, the longer thread engagement can't hurt.
I've got a jar of antiseize, I always use it on plugs, even in my cast iron headed Suburban.
I'm obsessive compulsive about fluid change and service intervals. Having this truck has made me worse, but that's a good thing! I just can't believe how inexpensively we were able to buy this truck, and I want to keep it in top shape for a long time to come.
you can't use the latter ones in a early. the threads are way different. unless you want to convert the heads with the newer inserts from these 2 companys http://fulltorque.com/sparkplug.htm ford full thread inserts http://www.timesert.com/html/triton_repair.html
they are costly for the kit but when a plug blows out of a early head it beats the dealer rip off of changeing both heads over. the timesert also shows how the plugs are different.
Thanks for the information, and the links. I was told that the latter spark plug was a direct replacement, good thing I mentioned it here before trying it out!
To my knowledge, I don't have any damaged plug holes, so I'll stick with the stockers until problems come up. If I find any damaged holes, I'll just buy the repair kit and do all of the plug holes.
Yep, I usually don't get quite such an early start, but I have some road jobs to do today, and about 4 hours total travel time. Can't hurt to get on the road before the rush hour hits!