Switching Oils...
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Switching Oils...
I know the oil questions have been beat to death, so I'm not debating WHAT or WHICH type of oil to use. Just the fact that people have changed brands and or weights.
Maybe this is old time thinking, but growing up, I was always told that once you started using an oil in an engine, you should always stick with that brand/weight. This came from my grandfather who sold oil for Archer Oils, to farmers in the area. I have always done this. Currently in my V10, I run Valvoline 5w-30 (Syn-Blend).
I have read that several of you guys after breaking in, switch to a full synthetic (Mobil 1), or something similar. I've also read that some people have switched back to dino oil from synthetic...
The reason that I'm asking is the fact that if its not going to hurt my V10, I'd like to try an oil change or 2 or Mobil 1, or equivalent Synthetic to see if it improves mileage... Not that I'm expecting a giant boost, but its worth a try. I use my truck for alot of around town driving, so it gets worked pretty hard during the week, then pulls my 9K lb TT on the weekends (during the summer).
Any comments, opinions, facts are appreciated! Thanks Guys!
Maybe this is old time thinking, but growing up, I was always told that once you started using an oil in an engine, you should always stick with that brand/weight. This came from my grandfather who sold oil for Archer Oils, to farmers in the area. I have always done this. Currently in my V10, I run Valvoline 5w-30 (Syn-Blend).
I have read that several of you guys after breaking in, switch to a full synthetic (Mobil 1), or something similar. I've also read that some people have switched back to dino oil from synthetic...
The reason that I'm asking is the fact that if its not going to hurt my V10, I'd like to try an oil change or 2 or Mobil 1, or equivalent Synthetic to see if it improves mileage... Not that I'm expecting a giant boost, but its worth a try. I use my truck for alot of around town driving, so it gets worked pretty hard during the week, then pulls my 9K lb TT on the weekends (during the summer).
Any comments, opinions, facts are appreciated! Thanks Guys!
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
Likes: 8
From: NE Texas
I'm not going to get into all the technical stuff, Terry, because that could go on 4ever.
The oil recommended for the Triton V10 is the best the engineers could formulate. Your 2001 model was slated to run 5W30, then it was thought that 5W20 would work just as well (or better) - no matter what brand as long as it met the specs.
I switched to Mobil 1 at around 36K, but the engine began "using" oil at a rate of a quart every 2000 miles. I went back to 5W30 dino (Castrol) and it never used another drop. If you want to try other blends, etc., as long as it meets Ford's specs, there should be no problem. As far as improving MPG, I don't think it will be noticeable. JMHO.
The oil recommended for the Triton V10 is the best the engineers could formulate. Your 2001 model was slated to run 5W30, then it was thought that 5W20 would work just as well (or better) - no matter what brand as long as it met the specs.
I switched to Mobil 1 at around 36K, but the engine began "using" oil at a rate of a quart every 2000 miles. I went back to 5W30 dino (Castrol) and it never used another drop. If you want to try other blends, etc., as long as it meets Ford's specs, there should be no problem. As far as improving MPG, I don't think it will be noticeable. JMHO.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,245
Likes: 16
From: Vancouver Wash USA
Originally Posted by terry_opie
I know the oil questions have been beat to death, so I'm not debating WHAT or WHICH type of oil to use. Just the fact that people have changed brands and or weights.
Maybe this is old time thinking, but growing up, I was always told that once you started using an oil in an engine, you should always stick with that brand/weight. This came from my grandfather who sold oil for Archer Oils, to farmers in the area. I have always done this. Currently in my V10, I run Valvoline 5w-30 (Syn-Blend).
I have read that several of you guys after breaking in, switch to a full synthetic (Mobil 1), or something similar. I've also read that some people have switched back to dino oil from synthetic...
The reason that I'm asking is the fact that if its not going to hurt my V10, I'd like to try an oil change or 2 or Mobil 1, or equivalent Synthetic to see if it improves mileage... Not that I'm expecting a giant boost, but its worth a try. I use my truck for alot of around town driving, so it gets worked pretty hard during the week, then pulls my 9K lb TT on the weekends (during the summer).
Any comments, opinions, facts are appreciated! Thanks Guys!
Maybe this is old time thinking, but growing up, I was always told that once you started using an oil in an engine, you should always stick with that brand/weight. This came from my grandfather who sold oil for Archer Oils, to farmers in the area. I have always done this. Currently in my V10, I run Valvoline 5w-30 (Syn-Blend).
I have read that several of you guys after breaking in, switch to a full synthetic (Mobil 1), or something similar. I've also read that some people have switched back to dino oil from synthetic...
The reason that I'm asking is the fact that if its not going to hurt my V10, I'd like to try an oil change or 2 or Mobil 1, or equivalent Synthetic to see if it improves mileage... Not that I'm expecting a giant boost, but its worth a try. I use my truck for alot of around town driving, so it gets worked pretty hard during the week, then pulls my 9K lb TT on the weekends (during the summer).
Any comments, opinions, facts are appreciated! Thanks Guys!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,264
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Big Orn, it's funny you mention that about the Mobil 1. I used it in my 87 Mustang back in the early-90's and it would burn about a quart ever 750 miles. I used it in my 95 F150, and it would burn a quart at about the same rate. At least after the initial 1500 miles, it would start burning it like that. I thought the 302's just burned it at that rate. I put it in my 01 Mustang that did not really burn anything before, and darn if it did not burn in there too. I switched back to MC 5W-20 and it quit. I wish I had known it was the oil 10+ years ago, I would have saved piles of money 
The funny thing about it, I used it in my lawn equipment too, and it would burn a 1/4 of it's capacity every 100 hours. I ran my Exmark with 26 Kohler EFI on it and it always did this. I bought a Hustler with a 27 carbed Kohler and ran it on Havoline 10W-30 and it never burned a drop in 8 changes. I put Amsoil in it the last change. If it burns it, I am going back to conventional oil for good in them too
The funny thing about it, I used it in my lawn equipment too, and it would burn a 1/4 of it's capacity every 100 hours. I ran my Exmark with 26 Kohler EFI on it and it always did this. I bought a Hustler with a 27 carbed Kohler and ran it on Havoline 10W-30 and it never burned a drop in 8 changes. I put Amsoil in it the last change. If it burns it, I am going back to conventional oil for good in them too
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
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From: NE Texas
Keith,
Referring to "evaporative loss" (if that's where my oil was going) the strange part is that the Castrol GTX I use now and Mobil 1 have the same NOACK Volatility Test (NVT) rating.
I never saw, nor do I see now, any oil on the outside of the engine anywhere. I know that certain oils like Amsoil have a low NVT rating, IIRC it may be the lowest of them all, and have many other positive features, but I just can't justify using an oil that my engine don't get along with.
Now any synthetic oil manufacturer will tell you that their oils are made for "mechanically sound" engines. Does that mean that our engines are not mechanically sound because the synthetic oil we used went away? I don't think so.
Referring to "evaporative loss" (if that's where my oil was going) the strange part is that the Castrol GTX I use now and Mobil 1 have the same NOACK Volatility Test (NVT) rating.
I never saw, nor do I see now, any oil on the outside of the engine anywhere. I know that certain oils like Amsoil have a low NVT rating, IIRC it may be the lowest of them all, and have many other positive features, but I just can't justify using an oil that my engine don't get along with.
Now any synthetic oil manufacturer will tell you that their oils are made for "mechanically sound" engines. Does that mean that our engines are not mechanically sound because the synthetic oil we used went away? I don't think so.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 423
From: Long Island USA
Originally Posted by Big Orn
Referring to "evaporative loss" (if that's where my oil was going) the strange part is that the Castrol GTX I use now and Mobil 1 have the same NOACK Volatility Test (NVT) rating.
Back to the question of changing oils going to hurt anything, I think "back then" oils sludged/varnished up more... With the different oils having different detergents (or lack thereof), putting in one with more detergent action (newer) would break up the sludge and cause problems. I really do believe this is where the "urban legend" came from. Not so much legend though, just that the idea behind it is not well understood.
I have no practical experience beyond Castrol GTX of various viscosities through the years. I am running Castrol GTX dino 5w30 in all my modulars. The '97 was spec'd that way, and my 2001 V10 didn't change in anyway when they went from the 5w30 to the 5w20. I recently put in Castrol Syntec 5w30, and have not noticed any oil loss (haven't checked it lately, idiot).
For everyone else, I immediately say "whatever the owner's manual says" that way I can't get in any trouble
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
Likes: 8
From: NE Texas
Originally Posted by krewat
...that way I can't get in any trouble
I think Castrol Syntec's NVT rating is almost as low as Amsoil, but I can't remember for sure - it's close, though. It's a lot lower than Mobil 1, which is good as for as evap goes.
Dern sumtimerz...
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Guest
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,988
Likes: 55
From: north west new jersey
i am another one with castrol syntec here in 5 w30 just the german spec on the bottles. at 500 i did the first change and went right to the syntec, again at 1k and 1500 then 3k and every 3k since.
my 05 uses no oil between with castrol, but the 1 change when i used mobil 1 it used 2 qts between the 3 k change and stoped when i went back to castrol. ????? what gives here
i'm a drag racer who was running a top fuel bike and with that one brand lost a motor on the line. tear down by the motors builder showed the oil had not done as it should. 10k down the tubes and back to castrol racing oil never had another problem .
just seems you may have to change the oil a few times with different brands then use what worked the best. on this v10 i'd bet it's motorcraft or castrol ????
my 05 uses no oil between with castrol, but the 1 change when i used mobil 1 it used 2 qts between the 3 k change and stoped when i went back to castrol. ????? what gives here
i'm a drag racer who was running a top fuel bike and with that one brand lost a motor on the line. tear down by the motors builder showed the oil had not done as it should. 10k down the tubes and back to castrol racing oil never had another problem .
just seems you may have to change the oil a few times with different brands then use what worked the best. on this v10 i'd bet it's motorcraft or castrol ????
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Long Island USA
You think Mobil 1 might be over hyped Cap? Nawww.....
It would be interesting for me to put a change of Mobil 1 in it, and see if it disappears.
Hmm... I just might have to do that. Same weight, 5w30, if possible. Or is it impossible to GET Mobil 1 in 5w30 ?
It would be interesting for me to put a change of Mobil 1 in it, and see if it disappears.
Hmm... I just might have to do that. Same weight, 5w30, if possible. Or is it impossible to GET Mobil 1 in 5w30 ?
Guest
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,988
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From: north west new jersey
art
i just looked it up mobil 1 5w20,30 and 5 w 40 for trucks.
even went out to the garage and got a castrol bottle and checked a case api sm,sl, sj, sh,cf and cd
acea a1, a5, b1,b5, ford wss m2c929 a.
ilsac gf4
specific gavity 0.854.. exceddes all the german builder specs did not find what orn named as nvt even in castrols web site.
all i know is i don't use any between changes with the castrol and i'm fine with that
i just looked it up mobil 1 5w20,30 and 5 w 40 for trucks.
even went out to the garage and got a castrol bottle and checked a case api sm,sl, sj, sh,cf and cd
acea a1, a5, b1,b5, ford wss m2c929 a.
ilsac gf4
specific gavity 0.854.. exceddes all the german builder specs did not find what orn named as nvt even in castrols web site.
all i know is i don't use any between changes with the castrol and i'm fine with that
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
switching oils won't hurt a thing as long as they meet the same specs. i use whatever 5w20 meets the 930a spec and is the cheapest. so far that is chevron sumpreme 5w20 . but all the guys on BITOG are also on to the chevron oil and it is hard to come by in the 5w20. it has been shown in uoas to deliver single digit wear metals. who can't be happy with 3ppm of iron in 5,000 miles? i would use the MC but its 2.50 here and i can get chevron for .89 on sale.
Guest
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: north west new jersey
mike
heres one thing i do agree with you on. nothing wrong with chevron . i used it 2 of my over road rigs with 1693ta cats in them and never had one problem. the oldest rig had a out of frame at 720k the inside still looked great, even used it in both the 6-71 tibs in the 48 ocean i had owned . the motors ran great.esp. for detroit 2 strokes at 485hp out of a 426 cubic inch motor.of ww2 design.
heres one thing i do agree with you on. nothing wrong with chevron . i used it 2 of my over road rigs with 1693ta cats in them and never had one problem. the oldest rig had a out of frame at 720k the inside still looked great, even used it in both the 6-71 tibs in the 48 ocean i had owned . the motors ran great.esp. for detroit 2 strokes at 485hp out of a 426 cubic inch motor.of ww2 design.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
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From: NE Texas
Art and Charlie:
Here's the chart - FYI
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a112/bigorn/api_co4.jpg" border="0" alt="Image hosting by Photobucket"></a>
Here's the chart - FYI
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a112/bigorn/api_co4.jpg" border="0" alt="Image hosting by Photobucket"></a>
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
that amsoil chart really means little. there is several more independent NOACK tests done that show some different numbers. the only number really off in that chart is the Amsoil. it tested 8.17 in the 2 other tests i have seen.
Last edited by ford390gashog; Mar 2, 2006 at 02:36 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
Likes: 8
From: NE Texas
Originally Posted by ford390gashog
that amsoil chart really means little. there is several more independent NOACK tests done that show some different numbers. the only number really off in that chart is the Amsoil. it tested 8.17 in the 2 other tests i have seen.
Do you have a link for another test?