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Why run a regulated return style fuel system????

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Old Feb 25, 2006 | 04:16 PM
  #31  
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For the cost of the DI kit I could build my own kit and install new OEM injectors? I'm sure my injectors are somewhat damaged since my truck has 230K on it!
 
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Old Feb 25, 2006 | 04:21 PM
  #32  
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How much pressure are we talking about before the regulator? Does anybody know if the Aeroquip Pushlok hose is sufficient? It's rated to 250 or 300PSI easily, maybe more. I've used it on the racecar and at work before. It works excellent. No need to assemble hoses. Just cut and push it on!

I couldn't tell from the DI website if their hoses are Pushlok type or if they are assembled, like braided line.

I've shyed away from the braided line since the Pushlok became NHRA legal for the racecar. It's more forgiving on your fingertips too!
 
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Old Feb 25, 2006 | 04:34 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by John7894
For the cost of the DI kit I could build my own kit and install new OEM injectors? I'm sure my injectors are somewhat damaged since my truck has 230K on it!
You could build your own kit cheaper, but not change the injectors. Injectors are expensive!!

Originally Posted by John7894
How much pressure are we talking about before the regulator? Does anybody know if the Aeroquip Pushlok hose is sufficient? It's rated to 250 or 300PSI easily, maybe more. I've used it on the racecar and at work before. It works excellent. No need to assemble hoses. Just cut and push it on!

I couldn't tell from the DI website if their hoses are Pushlok type or if they are assembled, like braided line.

I've shyed away from the braided line since the Pushlok became NHRA legal for the racecar. It's more forgiving on your fingertips too!
I run no more than 65 psi, usually around 60-62 psi. The DI hoses I believe are assembled. However, the ITP kit uses Pushlok hoses in their fuel system. I had considered Pushlok, but decided on the braided more for the "poser" aspect than for function -- I think it just looks better.

Pushlok fittings would work just fine in a system that you made yourself. And I agree, that assembly would be a lot easier with the pushlok.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2006 | 04:39 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by jtharvey
You could build your own kit cheaper, but not change the injectors. Injectors are expensive!!
I thought I saw some injectors on the DI website for $200. Is that $200 each?!


Thanks for the pushlok info. I can go buy all the hose/fittings I need at my company discount at the hydraulic supply house we use at work.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2006 | 06:06 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by John7894
I thought I saw some injectors on the DI website for $200. Is that $200 each?!
Yeah. That sounds about right. You can spend up to about $2500+ on a set of injectors for these PSDs, depending on if you go with stock replacements or something like a Stage II or III.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2006 | 10:46 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by jtharvey
Yeah. That sounds about right. You can spend up to about $2500+ on a set of injectors for these PSDs, depending on if you go with stock replacements or something like a Stage II or III.
Mini-Me 530 Hybrids from DI are $3400!
 
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 10:22 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by jtharvey
You can spend up to about $2500+ on a set of injectors for these PSDs

OUCH!!!!!
 
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 10:27 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by John7894
OUCH!!!!!
A good reason the do the fuel mod, cost of injectors makes the cost of the mod a bit more palatable.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 03:20 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by twags6
oops, accidentally deleted the first picture... so here it is again

I'm trying to get a conceptual idea of what's happening here...please help me out.

So the stock system has the fuel pump which supplies fuel from the fuel tank to through the stock filter to the fuel rails. In the stock system the fuel pressure is regulated through a fuel return from the filter housing back to the fuel tank. With this system it is possible for air to become trapped in the fuel rails and must pass through the injectors. (Is this correct?)

To keep air from being trapped in the fuel rails, fuel lines are added from the rear of the fuel rails to the the stock fuel return line. To maintain the proper fuel pressure in the fuel rails, a fuel regulater must be placed inline between the fuel rails and the return line. (Is this correct?)

Questions:
1) Why is the return line from the filter housing still needed? And why is there an orfice in this line?

2) Why do you add filters before and after the fuel pump?
 
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 03:28 PM
  #40  
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from what i know- on a stock configuration, the left bank is fed from the front and the right is fed from the rear. the fuel coming out of the fuel filter housing is pressurized to a certain pressure, maintaining a certain pressure in the fuel rails, and the lines. the regulator bleeds off the excess pressure whilst still in the filter housing. when the engine doesn't need alot of fuel, the excess (most of it) is bled back into the tank but the pressure in the lines is still maintained. if the air gets in the fuel lines past the regulator, the only way out is through the injector.

what i think- once a regulated return is installed, all of the fuel coming out of the filter housing is pushed through the lines, the fuel rails takes what it needs, and the rest is sent out through the front and then into the return line to the tank after the regulator. the reason the rails are fed from the rear is that the engine is canted slightly higher in the front than in the rear, so the air will naturally take the highest point back home, to the highest exit. if the fuel rails were fed from the front, i believe the front two injectors will see the most air.

is all this "logic" correct?
 
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 03:50 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by strokin_it7.3
from what i know- on a stock configuration, the left bank is fed from the front and the right is fed from the rear. the fuel coming out of the fuel filter housing is pressurized to a certain pressure, maintaining a certain pressure in the fuel rails, and the lines. the regulator bleeds off the excess pressure whilst still in the filter housing. when the engine doesn't need alot of fuel, the excess (most of it) is bled back into the tank but the pressure in the lines is still maintained. if the air gets in the fuel lines past the regulator, the only way out is through the injector.

what i think- once a regulated return is installed, all of the fuel coming out of the filter housing is pushed through the lines, the fuel rails takes what it needs, and the rest is sent out through the front and then into the return line to the tank after the regulator. the reason the rails are fed from the rear is that the engine is canted slightly higher in the front than in the rear, so the air will naturally take the highest point back home, to the highest exit. if the fuel rails were fed from the front, i believe the front two injectors will see the most air.

is all this "logic" correct?
Right on the money!
Nut
 
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 04:06 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by schmity
I'm trying to get a conceptual idea of what's happening here...please help me out.
Questions:
1) Why is the return line from the filter housing still needed? And why is there an orfice in this line?

2) Why do you add filters before and after the fuel pump?
Q #1: The orifice is needed because the stock regulator is gutted because it's not needed and it provides a path to bleed any air left in the filter housing.

Q#2: Because your moving more fuel then the stock system and additional filtering is needed. The prepump filter catches alot of water and contaminates before it gets to the expensive fuel pump and injectors.
Don't know about after the fuel pump filter? The stock one is sufficient.

Nut
 
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 04:30 PM
  #43  
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Question

Originally Posted by PSNut
Q #1: The orifice is needed because the stock regulator is gutted because it's not needed and it provides a path to bleed any air left in the filter housing.

Q#2: Because your moving more fuel then the stock system and additional filtering is needed. The prepump filter catches alot of water and contaminates before it gets to the expensive fuel pump and injectors.
Don't know about after the fuel pump filter? The stock one is sufficient.

Nut
OK, don't want this horse to get worn out without a kick of my own. BTW this is my first post, been using the site for about a year now. Why is the stock regulator "gutted"? And could you not somehow plum the returns from both heads into the stock regulator and thus maintain the original factory pressure level on the system as a whole. If this is possible, spend the money for the additional regulator on another needed goody, no?

Also, awesome site folks.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 04:45 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Tenn01PSD350
OK, don't want this horse to get worn out without a kick of my own. BTW this is my first post, been using the site for about a year now. Why is the stock regulator "gutted"? And could you not somehow plum the returns from both heads into the stock regulator and thus maintain the original factory pressure level on the system as a whole. If this is possible, spend the money for the additional regulator on another needed goody, no?

Also, awesome site folks.

hey Tenn01PSD350, welcome to FTE!

glad you finally became a member, you should have done it a long time ago!

im not sure how to answer your question, because i don't know. i just now learned that the regulator is gutted, by reading this. didnt know before. but i do know that most guys up their fuel pressure from about 53 psi to around 65-70, and the regulator helps that.

see ya around.
Kris
 
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Old Feb 26, 2006 | 04:49 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by PSNut
Q #1: The orifice is needed because the stock regulator is gutted because it's not needed and it provides a path to bleed any air left in the filter housing.
Ok. So the orfice is such that it does not allow fuel to pass through very quickly but air can pass through easily because of its much lower viscosity.

But some of the air still escapes to the fuel rails, that is why you need the extra lines from the fuel rail to the return line so that the small amounts of air not filtered at the stock filter housing can pass to the return lines instead of the injectors. Also, the fuel lines are modified so that the fuel enters through the rear of the fuel rail and exits through the front of the fuel rail since the front of the rail sits higher that the rear. This will allow the air to float to the front of the rail and pass through the regulator to the return line.

This sounds good in theory. Is there not enough "turbulence" in the fuel rails and lines to keep the air from being separated?

Originally Posted by PSNut
Q#2: Because your moving more fuel then the stock system and additional filtering is needed. The prepump filter catches alot of water and contaminates before it gets to the expensive fuel pump and injectors.
Don't know about after the fuel pump filter? The stock one is sufficient.

Nut
Why is more fuel moved? And why does more fuel movement require more filtering? Is it common for fuel pumps to go out due to contaminates?

Really awsome site!!!!!
 

Last edited by schmity; Feb 26, 2006 at 04:53 PM.
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